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Welcome to the August Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. Can
you believe it has been four years? I remember the faces of the first
customers who entered so long ago on that first day when I sold six
bottles of sake - three to the same guy! Well along with my Manager at
True Sake - Miwa - we just wanted to say THANK YOU for making the
store a success, but more importantly THANK YOU for loving sake so
much. Lastly, please see the Events section of this Newsletter as
there are a ton of events coming up, including our very own SAKE DAY
2006.
In this issue:
10 Sakes You Must Try Before You Die - The Official "Unofficial" List
Picture me in a loincloth, with a long white beard, extremely long
finger nails, sitting cross-legged in a cave way up on some remote
mountain. (Okay forget the loin-cloth that was wrong) Now picture
yourself winded, huffing and puffing, with chest heaving as you gasp
for breath after making a massive up-hill trek to get to my cave. Now
see yourself blurting out a frantic question that gets met with a long
and pointy bony finger that I press against my lips motioning for
silence. You pause and then take a seat in the dust in front of my old
and fragile body. After a long pause I look deeply into your eyes and
ask "What is it young sake drinker - how can I help you?"
At first you want to pour forth the following question, "Beau-san,
what are your 10 favorite sakes?" But wisely you resist this urge. You
recall the countless times that I have said that my favorite 10 sakes
are for me alone, as everybody is the "Champion of his or her own
palate." Thus you restructure your question. "Beau-san, there are many
brews to be had in this great sake universe, which rice and water
concoctions should I try before I die?"
My eyes will close and my head will drop. And it will be a very long
while before I lift my aged noggin and I will utter the following, "My
sweet sweet sake slut, you have come far, and you have asked me the
one question that I do not like to answer, but I will do so for you
and you alone." With a large piece of charcoal I begin to write ten
names of sakes or breweries on the cave wall. At sake number three I
bark out "these sakes and breweries are not the best, but should be
tried to appreciate the essence of sake." At number five my body
quivers with a mixture of loathing and disgust, but I continue on. At
number seven, I turn around and remind you that this list consists of
sakes that are available in the US.
And after I scrawl down the tenth sake I collapse like a wet gym towel
that slaps down on a locker room floor. Is he dead you ask yourself?
Did my question that is oh so personal and oh so arbitrary actually
kill the poor guy? And then when you get up to read the wall my wilted
body rolls over and I gasp out, "It's not in order you jackass!" And
then I die.
- Koshi no Kanbai Brewery (Perceived to be the "best" in Japan)
- Urakasumi Brewery (Balance personified - created a special yeast)
- Sato no Homare - Sudo Honke Brewery (Oldest brewery in Japan)
- Daishichi Minowamon (These brewers are into perfection! This DG is
Perfect)
- Mukune (Great example of Osaka sake - Made by Philip Harper the
Pioneer!)
- Juyondai (Aged sake that speaks to the language of "fat" flavors
and feelings)
- Masumi Brewery (Founders of one of the most important brewing
yeasts)
- Tsukinokatsura Junmai Dai Ginjo Nigori (Amazing brewery and best
Nigori)
- Kotsuzumi Brewery (One of those "Biblical breweries")
- Kokuryu Brewery (Another of those "Biblical breweries")
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A Sake Moment - Skipjack Sushi
As many of you know, on occasion I have to work a little to keep my
kids in shoes. And work sometimes takes the great turn of being able
to help restaurateurs develop sake menus unique to the U.S., SF, and
their local hoods, and highlights the strengths of their restaurants.
Recently I have crafted menus for Medicine, 415, and Sebo. But my
latest endeavor re-united me with a dear friend who wanted to "Thrust
sake to the forefront" of his sushi restaurant.
Skipjack Sushi on Union Street in Cow Hollow, San Francisco is the
third restaurant developed by Stewart Chen who is the mastermind
behind Amberjack Sushi in Noe Valley and Amberjack Sushi in Mill
Valley. The word that comes to mind when speaking about Stewart's
restaurants is "comfort sushi," as in it does not try to be something
that it is not. Well then what is it? It is a comfortable and reliable
restaurant that always has a very strong local following who enjoy the
quality of sushi and the "feel" of the service and the friendly
intangibles.
When my first daughter was born, we spent three nights per week
sitting in front of Stewart at the Noe Valley Amberjack with out
daughter sleeping in his kitchen. It was then that I started speaking
in depth with Stewart about sake and the "future of sake." He learned
well, as his latest endeavor is "Sake first - comfort second"! Well at
least in my mind.
So I set about creating not only a killer sake menu, but for the first
time I really worked with Steward about the placement of bottles on
display, so that customers can really see not only the works of art
known as labels, but can identify what they are drinking. I also
created a numbering system that corresponds with a very in-depth Sake
Menu that matches the perfectly displayed sake bottles.
If you are prepared to sit in front of 32 different sakes, read my
brief reviews of each, and enjoy some really fresh and flavorful sushi
then I recommend dropping by Skipjack. It is a great opportunity to
try a wide variety of well kept and well serviced sakes in an
environment that will allow you to take notes and do a little homework
for yourself. I am really proud of the selections, but more
importantly I am proud of the layout of the sake presentation. And if
you go tell Stewart that you are a True Sake person! Oh and I almost
forgot - our True Sake tasting event for August will be at Skipjack on
August 15th (The Ginjo Sake Tasting) Please see the "Events" section
of this Newsletter.
Skipjack - 1785 Union Street - 415.447.7357
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True Sake In The News - Seattle Times, MSNBC, SF Guardian
Many times when people come into True Sake they will say that they
know nothing about sake, when in fact they do know more than they let
on. The same too goes with the media-types. They will plead ignorant
and then write some really great pieces on sake. I had a brilliant
talk with a food writer from the Seattle Times who basically said that
Seattle isn't quite there yet in terms of good offerings and
restaurants that are putting sake through its paces. But she also
hinted that the future is quite near! I also received a nice little
review for my book "Sake - A Modern Guide"
from MSNBC and True Sake
was once again selected a "Best of the Bay" by the SF Guardian.
"Restaurants discover sake's versatility", Seattle Times
"Wine books for a refreshing read", MSNBC
"Best of the Bay", SF Guardian (On the site, click on Hayes Valley link)
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New Store Arrivals - Akita Homare Dai Ginjo and Those Summer Nama's
Every once in a while a great sake falls off of my sake radar screen.
It just drops into the Bermuda Triangle of lost brews. The reasons are
many, but excuses all the same, and the outcome is that a really
delicious sake is lost at sea, and you fine people never get to hear
about it! Well, I recently read an old review for the following sake
and I asked myself, where in the hell did that brew go? It didn't "go"
anywhere, and fortunately it is right back on the shelves of True Sake
right where it belongs!
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Akita Homare "Pride of Akita"
Akita Prefecture.
Junmai Dai Ginjo.
SMV: +1.5
Acidity: 1.4
This 45% milled sake has splendid nose with hints of plums, grape
skins, minerals, and vanilla. A very nice pale yellow sheen
quickly fills the mouth with chewy and plump fruit forward flavors
that are creamy and luscious. There are traces of vanilla in this
full-bodied sake that is both elegant and amazingly inviting. The
mouth feel is superb and the creamy finish speaks volumes.
WORD: Luscious
WINE: Pinot Noir/non-oaky chardonnay
BEER: Ales
FOODS: Pastas in a light cream sauce, grilled oily fish, cheeses,
fruit.
$47/720ml
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Okay Folks! The "Summer Nama-sakes" are almost about to retire for the
year. If you have not tried them make sure to do so sooner rather than
later. We cannot predict the moment when they disappear. Just like
Summer '05 we have brews from Ohyama (was the top selling Nama last
year), Tsukasabotan, and Umenishiki. But wait! This season we have a
new brew from Otokoyama that joins these fellow unpasteurized
beauties.
If you are looking for the sublime and elegant Nama Dai Ginjo (not a
lot of these) experience try the Umenishiki, or for those looking for
dry and refreshing grab a bottle of Tsukasabotan. If plump and ripe is
your thing try the Ohyama and if you want that clean and refreshing
drinking experience give the Otokoyama a shot. Bottom-line is that
there is a Summer Nama for everybody! Again, and we know that you know
that we know that you know that we are going to say this again, but
these great seasonal sakes are for a limited time only. So get'em
while the getting' is good!
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Ohyama "Big Mountain"
Yamagata Prefecture.
Nama Tokubetsu Junmai.
SMV: +3.5
Acidity: 1.3
If you are looking for "drinkable" without too much "thinkable"
then grab this Nama. Clean, plump and round this unpasteurized
sake has a nose filled with yellow cherry, apple, and ripe fruit
tones. Is it semi-dry or semi-sweet, who cares as the overall
feeling is refreshingly fruity without being sweet. There are very
soft powder sugar, melon, and white grape flavors that move in a
semi-thick texture with a stop-gap finish. Think watery but packed
with flavors, and let it go closer to room temp for the full Nama
experience.
WORD: Grapes
WINE: Merlot/Chewy whites
BEER: Creamy Ales
FOODS: Sushi, sashimi, grilled fare.
$25/720ml
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Otokoyama Sasaori "Man's Mountain"
Hokkaido Prefecture.
Nama Tokubetsu Junmai.
SMV: +5
Acidity: 1.4
The nose on this unpasteurized sake is filled with honeydew melon,
ripe cherry, and white chocolate tones. This is a silky soft Nama
sake that has hints of rock candy, honeydew, and powder sugar
elements all wrapped up in a soft and semi-sweet drinking
experience. Think semi-sweet and sunny, light and fun, bright and
fresh. A great example of a sake that is full in flavor but soft
in texture - gentle and refreshing.
WORD: Soft
WINE: Merlot/Non-oaky chardonnay
BEER: Light ales
FOODS: Cuisine with a natural sweetness, fruit, seafood, cheese.
$23/500ml
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Tsukasabotan "King of the Peony"
Kochi Prefecture.
Nama Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +5
Acidity: 1.5
This Nama-sake has a pronounced nose filled with apple, pineapple,
and green grasses tones. Talk about a brew with two distinct
elements! This sake captures two great qualities in the sake world
- the feeling called Nama, and the flavor generalized as Ginjo. It
is a dry sake with full flavors such as steamed rice with hints of
ripe persimmon and honey. Keep a taste bud open for Japanese
apple-pear, minerals, and other crisp flavors. Dry and watery!
WORD: Persimmon
WINE: Complex reds/Crisp whites
BEER: Pilsners
FOODS: Grilled anything, salty flavors, fried fare.
$13/300ml
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Umenishiki " Gorgeous Plum"
Ehime Prefecture.
Nama Junmai Dai Ginjo.
SMV: +4
Acidity: 1.2
This extremely elegant Nama Dai Ginjo (not many of those around)
has a lively nose with hints of minerals, green apple, papaya,
dark chocolate and sea salt tones. Think crisp and semi-dry when
trying a Nama that is built to enhance the subtleties found in Dai
Ginjo sake. The tip of the tongue stays fruity whilst the finish
is dry and everything in between captures nuanced elements such as
unripe pear, almonds, mineral water, and a sneaky vein of bitter
chocolate. Clean and compact this Dai Ginjo is a treat for those
looking to see a subtle side of Nama-sake.
WORD: Crisp
WINE: Zesty reds/ Dry whites
BEER: Crisp ales
FOODS: Sushi, sashimi, gently flavored cuisines.
$23/500ml
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Lastly, we will have three new "amazing" sakes to tell you about in
the next Newsletter, including one of my favorites that is exclusively
sold at True Sake! So do not forget to check out September's New
Arrivals, you will be glad that you did!
You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com
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Special Events
#1 - AUGUST 15TH "Ginjo Night" ~ Tasting Ginjo Class Sake
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• When:
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August 15th
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• Where:
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Skipjack Sushi -1785 Union Street - 415.447.7357
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• What:
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A Ginjo-only tasting that will focus on premium sakes, and
will be paired with great fresh cuisine selections from Skip
Jack Sushi on Union Street
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• How Much:
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$45
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• Why:
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This is a great tasting to not only eat at, but try SEVEN
premium Ginjo sakes that will rock your world!
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• How:
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To reserve phone 415.355.9555 and remember all True Sake events
sell out!
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• Small Print:
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As tickets are so in demand, there is a 24-hour
cancellation policy!
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#2 - AUGUST 31ST "The Joy Of Sake" tasting event at Moscone Center.
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Read about this on the Joy of Sake website.
Note: The Joy of Sake is often perceived to be a True Sake event - it
is not.
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#3 - SEPTEMBER 21ST Philip Harper Book Signing at True Sake.
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One of the legends of the sake world will be in San Francisco on
Sept. 21st to meet and greet the fine sake folks of the Bay Area. He
will also be signing his new book "The Book of Sake - A
Connoisseur's Guide," which will be released in September.
There will also be an extremely "Limited Dining Event" with Philip
on the night of the 21st at one of SF's top restaurants. Ticket
information will be available in the September True Sake Newsletter.
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#4 - OCTOBER 1ST - SAKE DAY 2006!
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The second annual Sake Day Celebration featuring a 5-course Kaiseki-
style sake pairing, 4 unique sake tasting stations, raffle, prizes,
live entertainment, etc. This is True Sake's signature event, and
tickets sell out immediately. This event is one part exotic cuisine, one
part sake carnival, one part Octoberfest Japanese-style, and two
parts sake drinker appreciation day! RUN - DO NOT WALK - TO GET
TICKETS!
Check out the brief description at www.sakeday.com.
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Summary of the "Blind Sake Tasting" in Japan Town
We typically get 20-30 emails per Newsletter from those wanting a
summary of past sake tasting events. As such I make it a regular
practice to highlight what you fools have been missing! (I say that in
the most loving of ways). Point being, many people cannot attend a
tasting and they want to know what goes down at these fun and
informative events. Bottom-line is that we bend over backwards to
create events that feature superb sakes, great spaces, and fabulous
foods. You should at some point attend one of our tastings, and here's
another example of why:
On July 19th True Sake held a "Blind Sake Tasting" in Japan Town in
San Francisco. Forty lucky sake tasters enjoyed 15 different sakes all
lined up in veiled bottles. Actually there were 16 bottles in a row,
as we repeated one sake to see if the tasters could pick out the same
sake amongst the other brews. And out of the entire group, one person
managed to pick Kaori as the repeated sake. Herewith is a list of the
sakes that were tasted:
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SAKE #1:
| Yuki No Matsushima - "Snowy Land"
Miyagi Prefecture. Honjozo.
SMV: +20 Acidity: 1.6
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SAKE #2: | Nishida "Kikuizumi" - "Fountain of Joy"
Aomori Prefecture. Ginjo.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.3
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SAKE #3: | Takenotsuyu - "Bamboo Tears"
Yamagata Prefecture. Junmai.
SMV: 2 Acidity: 1.4
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SAKE #4: | Kaori - "Fragrance"
Yamaguchi Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.5
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SAKE #5: | Tengumai - "Dance of the Demon"
Ishikawa Prefecture. Yamahai Shikomi Junmai.
SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.5
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SAKE #6: | Yuki no Bosha - "Cabin In The Snow"
Akita Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.9
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SAKE #7: | Kikuhime - "Chrysanthemum Princess"
Ishikawa Prefecture. Yamahai Junmai.
SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.8
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SAKE #8: | Koshi No Tousetsuka - "Snow Flower"
Niigata Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: + 6 Acidity: 1.3
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SAKE #9: | Kaori - "Fragrance"
Yamaguchi Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.5
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SAKE #10: | Kan Chiku - "Cold Bamboo"
Nagano Prefecture. Junmai Dai Ginjo.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.4
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SAKE #11: | Umenishiki "Sakehitosuji" - "Gorgeous Plum"
Ihime Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo Genshu.
SMV: +1.5 Acidity: 1.9
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SAKE #12: | Hakkaisan - "Hakkai Mountain"
Niigata Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.3
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SAKE #13: | Fukunishiki - "Happy Fortune"
Hyogo Prefecture. Junmai.
SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.4
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SAKE #14: | Nihonjyo - "The Castle"
Wakayama Prefecture. Junmai Dai Ginjo.
SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.3
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SAKE #15: | Hoyo Manamusume - "Farmer's Daughter"
Miyagi prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai.
SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.5
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SAKE #16: | Bishonen - "Beautiful Boy"
Kumamoto Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.7
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Also at the tasting we provided a wall chart to plot the tasters top
three favorite sakes. Typically, perhaps because of "group think," you
get about three sakes that everybody gravitates to, but this was not
the case. There was a very wide scope of likes that really made my
night! But, of course, everybody wants to know "What was the
favorite?" and on this evening the top 3 sakes were: Hoyo, Yuki no
Bosha, and Kaori (And since I do not believe in bests these 3 are not
in order! Ha!)
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"Ask Beau"
Trevor P from NYC asked:
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"I just came back from Tokyo and had this really great sake, if I
get the name of the brewery can you import it for me?"
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Oh man Trevor, in a perfect world I'd love to say hell yes! But we
live in the most imperfect world when it comes to booze importing,
distributing, and retail sales here in the US. Since I am retailer of
sake, I cannot import nor distribute sake. We have the so-called
separation of church and state at all three levels of "movement" of
alcoholic beverages. Why? Well for one thing the government gets to
tax all three levels of importation, distribution, and retail. If you
could do all three, this would eliminate two levels of taxation. Thus
the bureaucracy of alcoholic beverages dictates that only in rare
instances (I am still trying to figure this one out) can an importer
sell directly to the customer.
Trevor is by no means the first and only person to ask me this. I get
3-4 emails per week from breweries in Japan who have heard about True
Sake, and ask me to import their sake. Sadly, I have to tell them -
right after they offer to send me lots of samples - that I cannot act
as their importer. It kills me! And in case you are wondering in terms
of margins the importers make the most followed by the distributors,
which leaves loser like me and True Sake in the dust with by far the
smallest margins.
Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)
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The SECRET WORD
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those
who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note
for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake
with a story, and this month's story is "Ninjas." Huh? Well to be
exact it is a Junmai sake from the same brewery who just supplied you
with the "gold flake" sake - Wakaebisu.
Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell
your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber,
always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD,
and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped I can only include
the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy
three other sakes. This tasty and dry Junmai from Wakaebisu costs $20
but for you glorious sake-jockeys your cost is $10. And the SECRET
WORD is Ninja-Ninja-Ninja (the sound of karate chops!)
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Thank you for reading!
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