Welcome to the January Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. As we start out this chilly winter forget those pesky "Resolutions" unless of course they are sake related. We have ten good "Resolutions" to make this a great year. John Gauntner looks at Kubota in the Sake Spotlight and we get to introduce the newest "Exclusive" offering from our friends who know how to "Slay Demons." Have a brilliant 2007 and let's make sake history together.

In this issue:

• Sake Resolutions - Who Needs 'em?
• Sake Spotlight - John Gaunter Looks At The Kubota Experience
• True Sake in The News - Tribune Papers
• New Store Arrivals - Wakatake Onikoroshi Tokubetsu Junmai Genshu
• Special Events - Jan 23rd Beau's Birthday Junmai Mingle
• "Ask Beau" - If I Drink Sake Will I Get Fat?
• The SECRET WORD

Firstly, I do not subscribe to the notion of a "resolution." How many times during the calendar year do you ask yourself "Man, I need a resolution"? The word and the concept are just setting us up for failure this way and that. If "it" is not already in you than I'll be damned to tell you that the Hallmark Corporation could give a rat's ass about whatever personal appeal that you cry to yourself through the megaphone of public support after the most gluttonous holiday of the year.

Hold-tight on your over-consumption, over-eating, over-abusing for at least 29 days, and focus on the only thing worth "resoluting" about - sake.

It is with tremendous displeasure that I add a soggy decomposing log to the fire of the "resoluting season" in the form of "sake resolutions" - but many of you asked for it and herewith are the Top Ten Sake Resolution of 2007:

• Sake Resolution Number One - DRINK OTHER SAKES
  Sounds weird right? But sometimes we get in the rut of "familiar" and our horizons narrow. I cannot tell you the amount of times that customers come into the store and straitjacket themselves by saying things like "I only like dry sake!" or "I only like floral sakes with a gentle sweetness." These folks pigeonhole themselves into believing that they have tasted the entire sake pool and have come to the realization that they only like a certain sect of sakes. Not true! If you like fruity sakes then try some dry brews. If you are the umpteenth person who comes into True Sake and claims that you only like "dry sake" then branch out, because more than likely you will be spellbound by a semi-sweet or semi-floral sake that will make you "Homer-smack" your forehead.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Two - GET ANOTHER VESSEL
  One of the "Business Plan" reasons that I opened True Sake was the fact that soooooo many people have been given a sake set in their multiple birthday or holiday seasons and have no clue what to put in these strange "cups." Sadly, most folk feel the massive gravitational pull to drink sake out of small little thimbles. My default line at the store is "Hey drinking is a luxury, so consume out of whatever makes you feel good." But I say this with my mind screaming, "Use a white wine glass or a stolen Italian water glass or something with some girth." Bottom line is that sake is built like beer but drinks like wine and you or your worst enemy would never drink their favorite white Burgundy out of a clay mini-cup.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Three - HOT SAKE IS NOT THE ANTI-CHRIST
  I dunno how many times I have to say this! Of course I had a mission 5 years ago to tell folks that the "hot sake" that they had been zombied into believing was "The Way" of drinking "Japanese Rice Wine" was really a liquid form of yuk! Because the product that we had in the US known as "sake" was a putrid over- aged under-cared-for form of "rice whatever." The Island known as Japan gets verrrrry cold in the winter and they know what tastes good when warmed, and those same sakes are now available here and you would be well blessed to try them.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Four - FORGET THE PAST
  Yes, each and every human being who pays a rent or mortgage has had a bad booze experience. Mine was tequila and it took 20 years to realize that Ta-kill-ya was better than Jose Q Silver. Sake is far, far different than when you had that horrible "sake night." Give good sake a second chance - why? Because it is the cleanest burning fuel out there. Think "no hangovers" and get on with it!
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Five - DAI TRYING
  For God's sake, Dai Ginjo sake is not "the best" form of sake. There is no "best" category of sake. Junmai, Ginjo, or Dai Ginjo is no way of living. Please (and this plead comes at resolution number five) don't "classify" yourself. You are NOT a Dai Ginjo person! You are a great tasting and great feeling sake person. Do not get confused. There are a plethora of brews out there in the Junmai and Ginjo "space" that would float your boat.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Six - TAKE SAKE DEEP INTO DINNER
  I am getting really tired of all of those "Haute Cuisine" restaurants that are "incorporating" sake into their menus, because this is cheap talk from the chef who loves sake but is only willing to pair it with his/her appetizer menu. God forbid that they get off of their beef with Cab kick or their Sauv Blancs with fish. Sake is a center of the plate beverage, plain and simple! So don't just cocktail or appetize with sake - use this brew to bring out the best of your main course. Sake pairs with everything.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Seven - SAKE ISN'T MARRIED TO SUSHI
  Yes, this follows Resolution Number Six for a reason. 9 out of 10 of you had your first sip of sake at a sushi restaurant. These two Japanese "concepts" have been bedmates in the US from the get-go. In fact, many customers mix up these two words when they come into the store. The next time that you go to your favorite Italian restaurant bring a bottle of sake and when they mention the "corkage fee" tell them that sake bottles usually do not have a cork. 2007 is the year to get out of the sake-sushi mindset.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Eight - BE A SAKE BODYGUARD
  It's time to lookout for sake when you are out and about. If for example you are at a restaurant and they serve sake out of shot glasses talk to the owner and say "bad idea." Or if you are at another establishment and you ask about cold sake and they tell that they will cool down their hot sake to make it cold its time to talk or walk. Likewise if they serve their cold sake in ceramic hot sake cups (O'choko) ask them to upgrade to glass and in particular large glasses. If you are reading this Newsletter then you are a sake warrior just like us, so take up your arms and fight the good fight.
  
  
• Sake Resolution Number Nine - DON'T GET GRADED
  I firmly believe that sake will continue to skyrocket in popularity this year, and some of the side effects will soon come to heads. One such "bi-product" of popularity is for "authorities" to grade sakes like the Robert Parkers of the world. Resist this effort at all costs and on all fronts. John Gauntner - many moons ago and under severer urgings from his publisher - used a grading system to rate a series of sakes. He felt uncomfortable then and to this day regrets getting strong-armed to do so. It's not right to place a value to something that carries millions of values. As I state quite often, everybody is the champion of his or her own palate, so what good does somebody else's number do for you? If you find an article or an effort in this regard please call in the "Sake Resistance." Vive La Resistance!
  
  
• Sake Resolutions Number Ten - SELL THE CELLAR
  There's no use fighting it you former wine snob! Your love of and fascination for "Nihonshu" has finally kicked your lust for wine to the curb. This affair of yours for rice and water has become too serious to just dabble. You are hooked. And that is way okay! So the time has now come to sell off that grape juice cellar and start replacing the "sulphites sauce" with sake. Those racks need not be empty for long. Be the first kid on your block to turn that wine cellar into a sake sanctuary. And yes - this also goes to the many sommeliers that read this Newsletter. It's time to quit "playing" with sake and really start making some room on your menu for this superior libation.
  
  

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"Sake Spotlight" is a unique section within the Newsletter that takes a closer look at specific sakes that may be purchased at True Sake. I approach different professionals within the industry to give their perspectives and insights to the how, what and why's for very special sakes. These insiders are importers, brewers, authors, sake sommeliers, or just enthusiasts who will take your knowledge base a little further. What I like about this segment is that often my review is quite different than that of the guest professional's adding to the point that there is no right or wrong when discussing your opinion about sake.

This month's Spotlight features the high priest of sake John Gauntner, who takes a peek at one of the more "talked about" breweries in Japan. Asahi Shuzu from Niigata Prefecture is better known by their "branded name" Kubota, and it represents one of "those" kind of breweries that everybody in Japan knows about - for good reason!

So take it away John:

"Few sake brands in Japan can equal the combination of ruthless branding power and true quality of Kubota. Perhaps the quintessential representative of Niigata sake, their reputation is all but unparalleled in the world of sake. The brand name Kubota was actually only created in 1985, with the original brand name being Asahiyama, and Kubota being a "yago" or nickname for the company used by locals around the time of its inception back in 1830. Their timing was good, as at that time (in the early to mid 80s), a combination of the "ginjo boom" and a nationwide frenzy over Niigata sake were both taking root. Kubota rode this, fueled no doubt with diligent marketing efforts coupled with pristine quality, so that within a scant ten years, Kubota grew to unprecedented heights of popularity that it still enjoys today. The company (Asahi Shuzo) is the largest in Niigata, which is the third largest sake-producing region in Japan, and one of the largest kura in all of eastern Japan. They have long been innovative, and were one of the first kura to commit to going from wooden tanks to ceramic lined steel tanks back in 1929, way ahead of the national curve. This doubtlessly helped create the light, dry, very refined style that is Kubota, if not Niigata sake in general. And it is not as if their success or penchant for quality is something new, either. In 1932 and 1933, they won first place among all sake in the country in the national new sake tasting competition; then in 1938 they won both first place *and* second place in the same vaunted competition. Few kura in the country can claim a feat equaling this. Back in October of 2004, a brutal earthquake hit Niigata, and Kubota was one of 40 breweries hit hard. Tens of thousands of full bottles awaiting shipment were lost or damaged. "I can't imagine the total damage," said a company rep in a newspaper article. "It's no exaggeration to say this is our company's biggest crisis since its foundation in 1830. We're going to do our best to overcome this difficult situation." But overcome it they did, even employing some clever marketing like a "muroka nama genshu" (unpasteurized, unfiltered, undiluted) sake. Such a product had never been offered by the company, and was hailed as being in honor of 20 years of Kubota. Needless to say, it sold out in a jiffy (it was good, that's for sure), providing much-needed revenues and stability, I imagine. But it was wonderfully indicative of the great leadership that has obviously always been behind that company. There are about six grades of Kubota, depending on the season. Rather than go by simply the grade, such as ginjo-shu or daiginjo- shu, they all have a product name that is somewhat indicative of the level - assuming that is you can speak and read the language. The three most well distributed and representative of Kubota are Hyaku-ju, Sen-ju and Man-ju. The "-ju" in these three means "congratulatory" or "long life," and is the same character as the su- of sushi, for what it's worth. Hyaku means 100, Sen means 1000, and Man means 10,000. Put them together and you can see how they are fairly easy to figure out. For the record, Hyakuju is a honjozo, Senju is a Tokubetsu Honjozo, and Manju is a junmai daiginjo. By far the most popular of these is Kubota Manju. It has come to represent fine sake for so many Japanese everywhere. If you know nothing about sake, order the Kubota Manju. You will be safe, and no one will smirk or giggle. That is what it seems so many people are doing. But in truth, you will never go wrong with this product, so that conventional thinking holds up well. Kubota Manju is incredibly clean, crisp, and elegant. It is indeed light and refined, but not at the expense of either flavor or aroma. Not by any stretch. Distribution is tightly controlled and it is not cheap, but what it is and what it represents almost dictates it must be tried"

Great read John! On the retail front we did see a shortage of Kubota product after the 2004 earthquake (that was one river that I would have liked to drink out of). But they quickly caught back up on supply and we have been able to lower the prices on these sakes. We carry a serious collection of sakes from Asahi-Shuzo. We carry the Kubota "Big Three" Manju, Hekiju, and Senju as well as their "Ultra Dai Ginjos" in the form of Tokugetsu and Senshin both of which have been milled/polished to an extraordinary 28% figure where 72% of each grain of rice has been discarded.

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Kubota Senju From Niigata Prefecture. Honjozo. SMV: +6 Acidity: 1.2 The nose is a party of dried fruit, minerals, nutmeg, ripe plum, and banana cream pie. Oooooh the Kubota legend brings forth a honjozo that belts around flavors such as caramel, cotton candy and cocoa in a very dry and of course clean package. There is a bit of back door acidity and an unmistakable aftertaste that revisits the cotton candy elements. Clean and clear this honjozo gives one a good impression of a layered sake that works better at or near room temperature. WORD: Clean WINE: Dry reds/crisp whites BEERS: Dry ales FOODS: Sake pup fare, salty and savory, grilled everything! $25/720ml

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Kubota Hekijyu From Niigata Prefecture 1830. Yamahai Junmai Dai Ginjo. SMV: +3 Acidity 1.3 This Dai Ginjo, which we call a Ginjo in the store, is the perfect example of a Niigata style sake known as tanrei karakuchi or light and dry. Hekijyu has a nutmeg and pear nose. This Ginjo is as smooth and clean as they come, and subtle flavors of ripe pears and grapes pervade the middle mouth. The ending is anything but, as you will not remember swallowing. This is an ultra-popular sake in Japan and should be tasted by all sake connoisseurs. WORD: Stellar WINE: Dry crisp whites BEER: Light Ales FOODS: Seafood pate, ankimo, cold lobster, seared albacore, and white fish sashimi. $50/720ml

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Kubota Manju From Niigata Prefecture 1830. Junmai Dai Ginjo. SMV: +2 Acidity 1.2 This is one of if not the most sought after sakes in Japan. Manju is sophisticated and yet very drinkable, perhaps too drinkable as the phantom finish leaves you wondering if you swallowed or not. The nose is a clever balance of honeysuckle and tuberose. The first sip spells the strength in clarity of this sake. Subtle flavors of fuji apple and tart pear dance through the cleanest mouth in the sake world. WORD: Divine WINE: Light Sauvignon Blancs BEER: Light Ales FOODS: Shellfish, light seafood salad, sushi/sashimi $75/720ml

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Tokugetsu "Harvest Moon" Niigata Prefecture. Ultra Junmai Dai Ginjo SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.3 This sake is the "step above" from the makers of Manju and Hekiju (Kubota). Each grain of rice has been milled to 28% and the nose is filled with hints of apricot, flower blossoms, salt water and koji rice. Perhaps one of the "cleanest" like water sakes on the planet. A phantom sake where you do not remember swallowing. The watery feeling and taste is amazing, and deep within there is a layer of fruit tones. It is a seasonal sake in that they only release this sake in the Fall, when it's gone you will kick yourself for another year. WORD: Crystal Clean WINE: Soft reds/most whites BEER: Ales FOODS: Oysters, sashimi, shellfish. $95/720ml

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Senshin - "Sophisticated Mind" Niigata Prefecture 1830. Junmai Dai Ginjo. SMV: +2 This Dai Ginjo has been milled to 28%. It takes 3 days and nights to gently polish the rice grains to reach the incredibly small (2mm) pearly beads. Senshin is then aged "quietly" for over a year. Thus, we are talking about one of - if not - the most pampered sakes in Japan. The nose is laced with young cantaloupe and honey. This supreme sake borders more on a traditional flavor profile that is not afraid to use acidity to balance out the cantaloupe and citrus flavors. There are definite peppery flavors at work and the over-all mouth is multi-layered and delightful. WORD: Supreme WINE: Zins/Zesty Whites BEER: Peppery Pilsners FOODS: Light fare with attitude! $80/720ml

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This month there is an informative piece submitted to the syndicated Tribune press papers by Gregg Glaser who I spoke to about the "new way" sake is perceived. Gregg uses several photos from my book "Sake - A Modern Guide" and the whole take reads pretty well.

A Shot at Sake, by Gregg Glaser

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Yes my good readers I work my butt off for you and your sake pleasures. I risk shame and ridicule from those great sake importers time and time again begging for "exclusive" sake offerings. I enjoy doing this, and also enjoy seeing these brews take off in popularity and become offerings for other sake fans via other sake outlets. We are not greedy here at True Sake, because we take great pleasure in identifying sakes that we believe will speak to American (and the west on the whole) palates.

Thus I am indeed honored to tell you that we now carry Wakatake's Onikoroshi's Junmai sake. "Huh? I've had that brew before. Yup the one in the square bottle!" Wait wait wait my dear friends. You have not had this brew before, as it has never left the island of Japan until this very day.

We have all - well 98% of us - have tried the Wakakate Junmai Dai Ginjo - one of the best value Dai Ginjos on the market. Likewise a great portion of us have tried the Junmai Ginjo, which is a superb drinking sake. But nooooooooobody has put their filthy little lips to the older and more stoic sake brother known as the Tokubetsu Junmai Genshu. This fat sake is a mouthful of flavor tucked into a super smooth liquid, and when I tasted it at the brewery I knew that most of you would dig it. So come on in and "dig" it!

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Wakatake Onikoroshi "Demon Slayer" From Shizouka Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai Genshu. SMV: +7 Acidity: 1.5 The gentle nose on this undiluted Junmai (18%) is a mix of berries and green plums with cinnamon and steamed rice elements. Think fat, rich and creamy as this sake carries a "Wow!" smoothness. The layers of flavor are amazing as steamed rice tones give way to a rich fruitiness when the brew comes closer to room temperature. This extremely "food friendly" Junmai speaks to those who like a mouthful of fat and chewy smoothness that is neither particularly fruity nor dry - just balanced. Look for a vein of caramel and plum expressions, and enjoy the rich complexity from one of our favorite breweries. WORD: Fat WINE: Chewy Pinot Noirs/Deep Whites BEER: Creamy ales FOODS: Anything from the land or sea - the bigger the flavor the better. $30/720ml

You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com

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• When: January 23rd from 6-9 (come and go as you please) • Where: A. Muse Art Gallery & Meeting Place 614 Alabama St (between 18th and 19th street), San Francisco www.yourmusegallery.com • Why: To explore the "soul" of the sake categories - Junmai sakes. • What: A very casual tasting with no dedicated lecture, rather a come and go mingle that will focus on 6 amazing Junmais plus one hand- carried offering right off the plane from Japan. We will have the whole True Sake Team available for as many questions as you can muster! And of course Beau will be available for birthday related abuse! • How Much: $25 per person for a 6 sake tasting with light snacks. • Tickets: Must be reserved by calling True Sake (415.355.9555). We will not be able to sell tickets at the door

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Well I knew this question was coming - just surprised that it took so long to get to AskBeau. Appropriately this query comes from Los Angeles, where weight is a hefty topic. David G. from Santa Monica asked:

"If I drink sake rather than beer and wine is it better for my waist line?"

David this question is better suited for the "True Sake Newsletter Light - The Newsletter For a Healthier Life." But since you asked here I will gladly confirm what you already know to a degree.

I think even breathing air puts on weight these days. I am waiting for some smart business guy to develop "Air-Light" - "The Oxygen System with 1/3 The Calories of Regular Air." This is not far off. The bottom line is that all alcoholic beverages are bad for the figure, and your specific objective is to enjoy the lesser of all the evils if pounds weigh heavy on your mind.

Right to the point shall we?

In a 3.3oz pour:

• Sake = 105 calories
• Beer = 50 calories
• Wine = 90 calories
• Whiskey = 230 calories

All booze is a sin when watching the waist, so with that in mind let sake be your vice!

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is Kimoto or traditionally pole- rammed sakes

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy three other sakes. This month's sake is a Kimoto Junmai from Taiheizan, which usually sells for $22 per 720ml bottle for you sake- jockeys we will part with this brew for $11. And the SECRET WORD is "Pole-Rammed."

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Thank you for reading!

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.