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Dear Sake Drinker,
Welcome to the June Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. In
this edition read the mind of a sake purest from Yamagata, behold the
do's and don'ts of sake branding, watch BT go "BY," take a video tour
of True Sake, check out the plethora of sake events coming up
including True Sake's 5th Anniversary Party and Sake Day 2008 on
October 1st, and lastly read the best way to do a "gender" tasting if
you care to separate the sexes!
In this issue:
Sake Relevance - The Imai "Five"
He's one of the coolest guys in the sake-making world and I am a
dweeb! He owns a killer brewery and oh - just so happens to be the
toji "head brewer," and I am a water and rice loser. And of course he
is a brilliant guy with a great family and I am a sake "mo-ron" - said
in my best "Animal House" voice." So why in the heck did Shunji Imai
and his son Toshi make an out-of-the way trip to True Sake? To get a
"Double-Double" from In-and-Out Burger silly!
If you will recall - last October I changed from "hairy foreigner" aka
"geijin" to "kurabito" aka "brewery worker" in Yamagata prefecture for
several superb days of making tremendous sake. Please read the
November 2007 Newsletter to get a better feel about the brewery
that produces a sake called "Kudoki Jozu" or as your grandmother would
interpret it - "The Pick-Up Artist."
Shunji and Toshi wanted to visit True Sake badly, so I put them both
to work for the day selling their sake, autographing bottles and of
course taking many photos. Customers were treated to info overload,
business cards from the owner and many offers to visit their excellent
brewery in Japan. In return for their working skills I then took them
on a driving tour of SF, which of course featured a much-desired stop
at "In-And-Out Burger." (Toshi thought that a Big Mac was the ultimate
burger!)
We then had dinner at a Japanese-Hawaiian fusion restaurant where I
produced two of Shunji's sakes for pairing with pineapple and pork!
(The Junmai Ginjo that we sell and a Junmai Dai Ginjo that I brought
back from their brewery - man I wish we could carry this sake - so
superb!)
As I typically ask the same questions of brewers and brewery owners -
for consistency purposes - I decided to go "softer" with one of the
"hard" guys in the nihonshu game! Herewith is my five-question
interview with a stalwart in the rice and water game:
BT: What year was your favorite brewing year and why (keep in mind
that he wears two hats - kuramoto = owner and toji = head brewer)?
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He said 1991 very quickly! Surprisingly so. In 1991 they completely
changed their koji room. This is huge! Ask any brewer. Ask anybody!
When you change your koji room (the very temperature-controlled room
where brewers introduce a powerful mold to steamed rice to start the
saccharification process) you are messing with the "guts" of a sake
making process. If you make an entirely new koji room it is like
removing the tips of your fingers to have no fingerprints! You are
gone. The essence of your brew is changed - forever! Sometimes for
the better and often for the worse in the short run. Sometimes the
"essence" of your brewery is captured in the moist wood walls of the
koji room, and this "essence" is there year in and year out for
decades and centuries. It is like a proprietary component that you
cannot replicate in any way, form, or fashion. And in 1991 he took
his history and ousted it! A very ballsy move that usually conjures
up more bad memories than good!
1991 was also the year that they hired a new group of brewery
helpers. As Shunji said the process of training and bringing new
helpers up to speed is three years. But this class was well-trained
to begin with, so he was fond of this year because he made a radical
change and it paid off and he also hand-picked great employees who
are all still employed at the kura (except one who was the best of
the lot - he became the koji professional at the brewery - but died
of Leukemia).
Shunji said that the year that his head koji maker died - 2003 - was
also the year that the brewery invested in an automated koji
(rotating) machine that replaced his koji captain. He said that 2003
was his second favorite year! Both of his selections as his favorite
brewing years were filled with great change, something that brewers
loathe. I find that very ironic and telling.
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BT: What do you enjoy most about making sake?
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He said that enjoys the winter! I asked him to explain and he
responded that as owner of a brewery he has so much to do all of the
time. Purchasing, organizing, orchestrating etc and he is always on-
call and distracted. But when winter comes he gets to take off this
hat and put on his brewing mindset! He gets to focus on nothing but
making sake. He "loves" this. The sheer bliss of pure focus on
crafting great sake is his absolute favorite aspect of the sake
industry.
Of course I had to follow that up and ask what is the most
frustrating aspect of making sake? Without hesitation he said
training kurabito. (When he said this he shot a look across the
table at his son Toshi who last fall went back to Yamagata from NYC
to help his dad make sake.) He also added that on the positive side
of making sake is that he always tries new things in the process or
product line. But he is endlessly frustrated by what the industry
thinks of new things.
Lastly, he took out a piece of paper and a pencil (yes a pencil) and
drew a stick figure standing on a sheer cliff edge. Toshi translated
that his dad "always feels like he is standing on the edge of cliff
when brewing sake each season." I said why? He said that it was the
pressure of succeeding each year. (Imai-san is very much driven by
the National Sake Competition in Hiroshima each year and is quite
proud of his room of Gold Medal certificates)
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BT: What is the most important step for you when making sake? Each
brewer has a different "most important" step, what is yours?
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Like a flash he said the "koji." Then he quickly said "shubo" and
paused then said the "moromi." This is the "gold standard" of
responses when you ask any brewer what's the most important step for
making sake - or the step that is the easiest to screw up. There is
a little poem/jingle that goes in this order as well - Koji, Shubo,
Moromi! (I wasn't going to translate these brewing terms as I have
said this before many times - but for those new to the rag: Koji =
the spreading/inoculating of the steamed rice with koji (Aspergillus
Oryzae)) mold spores, Shubo = the yeast starter - think of bread
making - that produces a concentrated yeast fluid for better
fermentation - Moromi = the actual brewing process of adding all of
the elements and allowing them to do their thing for roughly 30 days
of fermentation.)
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BT: When people drink Kudoki Junmai Ginjo what should they look for?
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Our sake has lower acidic properties and as such we strive to make
fine and clear sake that drinks clean and soft but has huge body.
The taste has rice qualities, which are determined by the quality of
rice that season. Our sake has very pronounced aromatic qualities
that translate into the flavor of the sake. We use a very good kobo
(yeast - Association #10) that works well with our Miyamanishiki
brewing rice. Look for clean qualities that have a good complexity.
At this point - Shunji-san leaned over and said "Beau do you think
our sake is too dry?" "We are thinking of making it a little more
sweet." I burst out a loud NO! I then explained that there is such a
trend by the majority of our brewers to go sweeter! In the last 6
years I have noticed a sweetening of sorts, where normally dry and
ricey brews have gone fruity and sweet. I think that this is a
disturbing trend, but may very well speak to drinkers who like more
body and upfront flavor. (I spoke of this in the last newsletter -
May'08 - at the International Wine Challenge event that I judged at
in London) My firm "No!" took Shunji back but a large smile came
across his face and he said "good!" He followed that up with a
"Don't worry Beau-san."
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BT: What is one thing that you can tell my readers that they have
never heard before in the sake-making world?
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"How about rice quality?" Shunji asked. "In what sense?" I fired
back. We then had a 30-minute discussion about weather and what that
does to influence the flavor of sake. (As many of you in the biz
know - somebody will spend 20 minutes telling you something and you
think that you understand and then they say something completely the
opposite and you are left scratching your head. This is what
happened right about here. Basically I gathered that there were
acidic properties in rice even before it is converted to glucose,
that were significant enough to change the final product. But alas
after convincing me of this Shunji said "no there are no acids in
rice." I was thinking fatty acids (saturated and unsaturated that
are known to influence the aroma of sake). Well not enough to change
the balance and flavor of a final product. Hmmmmmmmm.)
After unwinding this 20 minute shpleel I did gather the following:
When one speaks of rice crops there are two certainties - 1) if it
is a particularly hot summer then the rice becomes hard and is
harder to ferment with 2) if it is a cool summer then the rice stays
soft and has better permeability for the koji mold to greet the
"shinpaku." Hot equals bad and cold equals good! This is where
Shunji said that sunny summers produce more acidity and colder
summers produce lower acidity. But what he then explained is that
rice that has had "sunny summers" has more balance when fermenting -
producing a better-balanced sake. Likewise colder summers produce a
better fermenting rice that actually has less balance and the result
is that this imbalanced rice can ferment bigger and better in some
ways or not well in other ways - a more hit or miss! (But the
overall result is a bigger achievable flavor!)
Damn! Welcome to my world! Just think that when a kernel of rice is
too hard - or harder than usual - it doesn't mill well, absorb water
well, steam well, take mold well and generally is harder to make
work! Whereas softer rice does mill, absorb, steam well, and takes
mold better.
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Sake Branding - Momokawa Goes Murai!
Last month I received an email from my pal Dewey Weddington -Marketing
Director -of Sake One in Oregon. You will recall Dewey was my guinea
pig in New Orleans when I took several sakes - with great success -
into the heart of Cajun cuisine country. (See Newsletter Aug. 2007).
The point of his email was to inform me about the current "organic"
status of his brewery. As I have mentioned in past issues the US does
not recognize the "organic" status of sake in Japan. Apparently their
standards are below or dare I say inferior to our standards and as
such sakes that are "organic" in Japan cannot be called "organic" in
the US. Splitting hairs - I dunno! But I do know that Dewey was pretty
stoked with their efforts:
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We just got our certification for Organic production. First
certified organic saké will release in June. I know, I know there
are "organic" sake out of Japan but they are not legally organic in
the U.S. and are under different standards. U.S. Standards are more
rigid and defined. With our certification our organic bottles will
carry the USDA seal.
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Now this organic issue is interesting but it is not the point of this
piece. The point is rather my respect for the parent brewing company
that went into partnership with Sake One - Momokawa brewery in Aomori
Prefecture. When I replied to Dewey I asked him how the "branding
exercise" is doing? Not organic branding, but rather the entire line
of imported sakes, which are new in name only!
The story is an interesting one. See if you can detect in advance the
problem that Sake One and Momokawa encountered. Essentially, the Murai
family (owners of Momokawa in Japan) went into partnership with an
American concern to first export then make sake in America. After
several years of just exporting brews they sent over brewers and
expertise to capitalize on local resources to make "the finest sake in
the US." You may have seen their efforts in those cool cobalt blue
bottles called Momokawa "Pearl" "Ruby" etc. As they were producing
these sakes with much success they also kept importing sake from
Aomori called Momokawa as well. The Dai Ginjo is a multiple Gold medal
winning sake, much celebrated in Japan. See the brand conflict yet?
Well where Gekkeikan continues to import sake from Kyoto whilst making
brew in Folsom, CA, and where Yaegaki continues to import sake from
Hyogo and all the while brews in Los Angeles, and where Ozeki imports
from Hyogo and also brews in LA, and where Takara Shuzo (aka Sho Chiku
Bai) imports from Kyoto while still making sake in Berkeley, CA the
Momokawa brand went through a massive redesign to eliminate the
confusion of the "here vs. there?" question.
I was so impressed with their "Re-brand" that I asked Dewey to set it
up from their brewery's perspective. So herewith is one of the success
stories in the branding of sake "overseas." Momokawa to Murai Family:
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Nearly sixteen years ago our company (SakéOne) began as a simple
importer of Momokawa Brewing Japan (Aomori Prefecture) saké. About
ten items were brought to the U.S. and quickly gained a strong
following. Over the years the Momokawa brand evolved and gained
national recognition but not as an import saké, as one brewed and
bottled in Oregon. In 1997, as part of a joint venture between
SakéOne and Momokawa Brewing Japan, the first U.S. Kura designed
exclusively for Junmai Ginjo saké brewing began bottling under the
Momokawa name. The intention of using the name on the Oregon
products was good, to honor the brewery that helped us get started.
Yet after a few years confusion reigned. The Oregon brand grew into
its own with national distribution and strong awareness. A joyous
yet perplexing situation.
Working closely with Momokawa Brewing Japan we dug in for months to
define the best solution to our challenges. After much discussion,
research and creative interpretation we realized that the obvious
answer was staring us in the face. It had been watching us for
years. The iconic Nebuta Warrior found only on the Nebuta Honjozo
bottle.
The Nebuta Honjozo had become, after all the years of importing, the
most remembered, the most recognized. It carried a unique image -
the Nebuta Warrior, one that represents a historical battle when
giant paper and bamboo warriors were lit up at night to frighten the
enemy. An image that today is associated with the internationally
acclaimed Nebuta Fire Festival in Aomori Prefecture. And today,
fortunately so, only Momokawa Brewing Japan is allowed to use the
Nebuta image for saké. Perfect! We agreed on using this commanding
image. Now, what about the name?
Once again, the answer was staring at us. Looking us right in the
eyes. Talking. Engaged in the process. This was Tohru Murai and
Kyota Murai. Fifth and sixth generation Murai to operate the
brewery. Murai, a family name with generations of saké passion,
rooted deep in Aomori and saké innovation. A family whose dreams of
sharing saké with the world helped bring SakéOne to life.
An opportunity to celebrate the Murai Family, its saké heritage, the
people behind the brewery and their pure passion for the wonderful
elixir that brings us together was and is ideal. It provides the
brand with a unifying name and tied to the Nebuta Warrior image it
is eye- catching, easy to pronounce and remains top-of-mind. And
with the new label comes more information including SMV, rice,
milling and other notes all in English making easier for American's
to read and learn more about saké.
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Currently we carry three Murai Family products - the Tokubetsu
Honjozo, the Nigori and the Nigori Genshu. We used to carry the superb
Dai Ginjo (multiple gold medal winner) but it didn't move well in the
store, and as such we let it slip through the cracks. Yes when you
carry over 200 sakes you need champions for each brew. If there is
momentum with this re-brand we can always look at adding the Dai Ginjo
back to the line up. I have always had a fondness for this brewery and
these folks! Herewith are my three reviews for these brews in stock:
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Murai Family "Tokubetsu Honjozo"
From Aomori Prefecture.
Tokubetsu Honjozo.
SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.4
"Tokubetsu" means special and in this case the sake is made from
rice milled to 60%. "Honjozo" means that there is a little brewers
alcohol added to bring out texture and aroma qualities and does not
fortify this sake. In fact with a nose filled with white grape,
blueberry, and mineral water elements this brew drinks incredibly
easy and user-friendly. Soft lychee and grape tones pair with a
hint of berry and melon flavors in a super-soft like-water flow.
Thin and slick this sake is pure easy drinking! Look for more fruit
flavors when chilled and more grains at room temperature.
WORD: Balanced
WINE: Soft reds/Creamy whites
BEER: Creamy ales
FOODS: Grilled and savory fare, sashimi, crustacean, tofu.
$12/300ml & $27/720ml
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Murai Family "Nigori"
From Aomori Prefecture.
Nigori.
SMV: -18 Acidity: 1.4
This is the only imported 1.8L bottle of Nigori sake available in
the US, and the Murai Family does this solely for True Sake. With a
gentle creamy nose filled with honey, melon, whipping cream and
vanilla tones, this unfiltered sake is smoothness personified.
Round and soft there are buckets of flavors that work in total
unity - from lychee and honey dancing with white grapes to cream
and coconut singing with Cool-Whip! This is 60 fluid ounces of
milky love!
WORD: Velvety
WINE: Fruity Reds/Sweet Whites
BEER: Creamy ales
FOODS: Spicy fare, grilled fare, desserts.
$35/720ml
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Murai Family "Nigori Genshu"
From Aomori Prefecture.
Nigori Genshu.
SMV: -22 Acidity: 2
This unfiltered or "Nigori" sake has a plump nose filled with sweet
cream, grape, honey and yogurt elements. At 19.9% alcohol one would
expect a massive punch of a sake, but this creamy and fruity brew
is smooth a round for such a robust dance partner. Look for hints
of berry, grape, and vanilla tones that are carried on a velvety
and expansive fluid. Not overtly sweet and a tremendous finish for
a 20% milky madman! Think milky and silky.
WORD: Smooth
WINE: Fruity reds/Chewy whites
BEER: Hefeweizen
FOODS: Big flavored and spicy dishes, creamy and cheesy pasta,
desserts.
$10/300ml & $23/720ml
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Sake Moment - Sozai Restaurant/Izakaya
If you have ever been to one of True Sake's "Sake Day" Celebrations on
October 1st (see Events for a "Save This Date" reminder) you will
recall three things - One: great sake - Two: great sake exploration -
Three: and most importantly great food and sake pairings. The food
part was and is the brainchild of Mari Takahashi of "Mari's Catering"
fame. Mari finally decided to take the catering to brick and mortar
and the result is a cool little restaurant called Sozai (which means
"ingredients").
Along with husband Gil their motto is to use organic, local, and
seasonal products to make the flavors of the season jump off the
plate. Gil has been bitten by the sake bug and with some wink wink -
nudge nudge he has crafted a really cool seasonally focused sake menu
that stands out from most other restaurants. Personally I like the
value to quality ratio on both their food and sake.
Herewith are a couple "Sake Moment" flavors to consider:
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Kushiyaki "Chicken Sampler ($12) - 6 skewers stuck with chicken,
chicken & green onion, gizzard, hearts, livers, and meatballs. I
paired this six-pack with the Hakkaisan Honjozo $9 for a nice 5oz
pour. When you order the dish they ask if you would like the chicken
in "salt" or "sauce" - teriyaki of course - and Gil said that 90% of
us whities take the "sauce" whereas only 40% of the Japanese do. As I
am a closet saltaholic I of course went sodium!
The "Hak" goes so well with salty/oily fare, especially when it is on
a stick! Not a very sweet Honjozo this brew drinks far more rich when
oils are present in the palate. What is nice is that "Hak Jo" (just
made that up) has far more body and structure than most honjozos,
which is odd as one would think that a Niigata Honjozo would be as
clean and light/dry as water. Not! Good body meets good savory and
salty flavors for a rich and meaty mouthful on all six! This is a
well-spent $21 combo! (On a side note - and I will be brutally honest
here - there is no superb Yakitori in SF - None - Crickets -
Helloooooooo - ! But Sozai can lay claim to one of the best that we
have to offer.) Other good pairings:
Kushiage - Lotus Root with Salt ($5 for two skewers) and Kurobuta Pork
Filet with Pickled Plum Sauce ($7 for two skewers) paired with
Tengumai Yamahai Junmai. The big and bitterness of the sake works very
well with big and veggie quality of the root to produce a tangy
combination. And of course Tengumai and pork dance better than Kermi
and Miss Piggy! The plum sauce flat out rocked with the Tengumai. Good
flavors on the edgy side - not for beginners!
Tonkatsu (The pork staple - breaded and deep fried tenderloin - $9)
paired with the "Joto Sake Sampler $12 (Shichi Hon Yari Junmai, Kasumi
Tsuru Junmai, Yuki No Bosha Junmai Ginjo) Personally I thought the
Extra Dry Kasumi Tsuru would make the best bedmate, but alas I was
wrong. It was too light - too dry (which as I say time and time again
is a function of over fermenting to achieve a dryness that has dry
qualities at the sake of more body and texture and flavor - good for
drinking not so good for throwing at cuisine - unless of course you
are eating Pringles in the summer in the desert.) The Shichi Hon Yari
provided good "cover" as the Junmai qualities of the brew pulled the
natural sweetness of the pork. And the surprise "beast" of the sampler
was the Yuki No Bosha that extracted the juices of the pork and melded
them with the tangy/sweet dipping sauce in a way that made one forget
the explosive fruit flavors of the brew. Perhaps it is a reflection of
the fact that this brew is genshu - all of their brews are genshu and
I'll write about this next month. Good stuff!
And Tadah! The Best $5 dish in the Bay Area: The O-Chazuke with Tai
(red snapper) paired with Urakasumi Junmai $9. I know I know! You are
supposed to be winding down the drinking when you order a rice-based
tea or dashi based dish that is supposed to "sop" up the remaining
booze in your system. I couldn't resist! (Especially as the True Sake
limousine was parked in front of Sozai - yes we Sake Samurai have
private cars available at all hours in all countries - membership has
its privileges.) Word to my wise readers - ask Mari to add ume to your
bowl, which she will gladly do! Here are my "words" - word for word -
at the end of a very nice evening speaking to two great sensations:
"Deep & rich flavor but not a heavy rich - light rich like Ritchy Rich
(yes even in the heat of the battle I still entertain myself with
cartoon references) - the Tai really stands out - rice chips on top of
dish produce a great savory tea flavor. The Urakasumi works so well -
sweetness comes forward with a solid and comfortably warm movement.
The smoothness of the Urakasumi plays with the smooth flavors and
textures of the broth. Could be the best $14 pairing in the Bay Area!"
http://www.sozaisf.com
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Sake Score - Anzu Goes Half Price On Sake For June
For those local to SF, just got a very interesting email from
Annemarie Domizio - Director of Restaurants for the Nikko Hotel. It
appears that the sake gods are smiling on us for the month of June as
their entire line of premium brews such as Masumi, Otokoyama,
Chikurin, Yuki no Bosha, and Dewazakura are half off their menu price.
That's a pretty darn good deal and well worth the effort! If you feel
like exploring some great sakes at a great restaurant I think June may
be the month!
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"ANZU is slashing prices! All bottled wine and artisan sake will be
50% off the list price for the month of June with no restrictions.
If you've been waiting for a chance to check out Barney's new menu
or Koyo's sushi, this is a great opportunity!"
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http://www.restaurantANZU.com
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Sake Spotlight - BT Does "BY" (Kikuhime That Is!)
I won't lie - it's $125 per bottle! Stop reading right here if you
cannot afford a bottle. Stop reading right here if you can afford a
bottle but would never purchase one on principal. Stop right here if
you think that Yaegaki Mu is the best Dai Ginjo ever made. (It's a
good brew - don't get me wrong!) Go no further if you don't really
want to "know" sake.
Recently I sent my buddy an email that said that I wanted to be
embalmed in Kikuhime Dai Ginjo when the Great One punches my ticket.
He replied, "By the time you die I will have drunk it all. That sake
is one of the best I have had. I agree." And this is coming from a
fellow person who is not in the business of saying "favorites." We
just never answer that question - "what is your favorite sake?" But in
the dark corners of after hours emails we at times let our guards slip
and say crazy things like "best" or "most favorite" or "da-shit!" (We
never say, "da-bomb" for obvious sake-bomb reasons)
I remember my first! Love? Hell no! I remember my first taste of
Kikuhime's Dai Ginjo. The bottle was a present from my pal Ryuta
Sakamoto - of Kappo Sakamoto in Kyoto and Medicine Restaurant in SF
fame. (A brew that they keep permanently on their menu in Kyoto.) He
thought that I might enjoy it. He thought wrong. I loved it. So much
so that I went to my importer of this kura, who I used to sell their
Yamahai Junmai (too big for the average sake drinker), and said I need
this Dai Ginjo. So three years ago said importer brought Kikuhime Dai
Ginjo to our shores to be sold exclusively at True Sake. No other
place outside of Japan carries this brew, nor should they! It's home
is in the home of sake.
The name of this AAA Yamadanishiki-rice-made-sake is BY, which of
course stands for "Brewing Year." What's the difference between a
"brewing year" and a calendar year? Think in terms of rice! Rice from
one season is used in the next - Fall '06 rice used for January '07
sake for example. A brewing year begins on July 1st and ends in June
of the following year. This acronym also represents the "emperors
calendar," which designates the current year of the current emperor.
for example this year of 2008 is the 20th year of the current
emperor's reign - thus we are in year 20 and a brew bottled this month
would read 20-06 or June 2008. This brew, however, is laid down for a
year and a quarter and then bottled and released roughly 1 1/2 years
after turning rice into liquid! Add the fact that this baby is
carrying roughly 18% alcohol - Genshu, and you get a brew that has
stability in the bottle.
Kikuhime is an extremely well known brewery in Ishikawa Prefecture.
(Amongst sake drinkers it represents one of "those" breweries where
soul and passion reigns supreme - and has done so since 1570.) I
won't touch on the amazing packaging of this brew - hey for a buck
twenty-five it better be classy as all get out! I will however speak
to the style that this brew chooses to define its contents - confident
and different!
Herewith are my notes of said first tasting experience in the summer
of '05:
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Bottle Nose: Koji rice and cherries. Nose: Sweet rice, melon, mild
fruit, and noughet. "A plump and ripe Dai Ginjo with 'perfect' amounts
of balance and character." "Thick and ripe, slightly fruity sake with
grains and a subtle savoriness." "Structure is so sound - thick legs
on glass could have told you that - this produces and very slow
dissolve in palate." "So plump and rewarding - the acidity swims in
the thickness - and the finish is tremendous (say hello to a peek-a-
boo mild tail)." "There is a hint of sweetness that rides the chewy
flavor push - super soft and silky with slick and chewy flavor
elements." WORD: Perfect WINE: Fat Pinot Noir/Chewy Whites BEER: $8
Ales (I cannot remember writing that but love it!)
Now since that fateful first tasting I have secretly squirreled this
brew to special occasions across this great land - hell I even took it
to New Orleans to pair with Cajun food! And on my personal
"sweetness/dryness" scale - a system that I invented by necessity
before I knew about the Sake Meter Value or Nihonshu-do - I gave it a
4, which lo and behold is the same number I gave the brew tonight when
re-reviewing it for the Sake Spotlight! Basically this sake is so
solid - so balanced - so even that it would take a natural disaster to
throw this beast off kilter.
Here is my most current review of a brew that is dated 17BY, which
means brewing year 2005! (Aged for a year and a half and
bottled/released in December 2006) and please note that we only have 4
more cases of this beauty in a bottle:
Bottle Nose: Deep Cherry (same as first smell over 3 years ago - yes a
different BY all together) - consistency nevertheless! Nose: Per usual
I use three different sized vessels when tasting a brew for review -
Melon, hint of vanilla, steamed rice, and salt water. "Round and soft
- deep and layered - with a gentle reminder of aging." "Superb balance
with a gentle richness." "Round and pampered extolling a quick finish
with a lingering tail - deeper and deepest a sense of floating
richness pervades." "Soft and supple with just an amazing feel - a
mouth gripping experience - solid and so even." "Drinks better in an
Izakaya-style (sake pup glass that looks like a cut-off Italian table
wine glass) and does not get rewarded in a larger vessel." "Look for
white rasin, cucumber, steamed rice, cooked pineapple, and honey
roasted nut elements." "A taste of sweetness presents itself when you
airate the brew between your teeth." "Drinks far more elegantly
chilled, far more expressive at room temperature, and far more soulful
when warmed ever so slightly." WORD: Balanced WINE: French Pinot
Noir/White Burgundy BEER: Controlled Belgians FOODS: Yup! Even Cajun!
Will take on all-comers!
Why did I bring this brew out into the Sake Spotlight? Are you
thinking that I want to sell a lot of $125 bottles of sake? You really
don't know us at True Sake if you think this! No - the reason is
really quite innocent and pure. I present this brew because it is a
foothold in the understanding of climbing the sake sheer-faced
mountain. It is a solid grip - a firm placement - a step for which you
need to get to a higher level of understanding sake. Or not!
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Herewith is an entirely different review written for my store's
"copy" (see if you can spot any similarities):
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Kikuhime "Chrysanthemum Princess" BY
From Ishikawa Prefecture.
Dai Ginjo Genshu (Aged Over One Year).
SMV:+5 Acidity: 1.3
Some sakes are built well and some are built like this amazing Dai
Ginjo. With a gentle collection of cherry, sweet rice, melon,
lavender, and powdered sugar aromas, this brew is a mouth-ride at
its finest. Thick and chewy with a super soft texture, behold the
definitive "fat" sake. There are hints of grains and steamed rice
on one floor and far more savory flavors on another, and hidden
amongst it all are deep rich fruit veins that one must seek or miss
altogether. Plump and rewarding this Dai Ginjo has a structure like
no other, enjoy the acidity and revel in the complexity.
WORD: Complex
WINE: Deep reds/Fat whites
BEER: Belgian Ales
FOODS: Made for grilled fare and complex cuisine.
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Just a biblical brew - all the more so because if you were to ask any
sake maker of note he would tell you privately that he would have
loved to study under their former toji - one of the best of all time!
(I have met two current toji who went "through" their "system" and
both would give their lives to have been made the "next" toji at
Kikuhime.)
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New Store Arrivals - Spring Nama Second Flight
Well buckle down the hatches as the "second flight" of seasonal nama
zakes have blessed True Sake. This is the same second flight as last
year and has some great brews to choose from. For those of you looking
for a more dry and clean nama experience jump on the Otokoyama. If it
smoothness personified then look no further than the Dewanoyuki. If
you like it rich and raw with layers of complexity seek out the Gokyo.
And for those seeking the massive nama experience with tons of
attitude and explosive flavor reach for the Kaika. All in all this
flight is drinking equally as well as last year and a couple of the
brews have changed for the better.
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Otokoyama Yukishibare
From Hokkaido Prefecture.
Tokubetsu Junmai Nama.
SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.4
This unpasteurized seasonal sake has a unique nose filled with
kiwi, peach and fresh cut grass aromas. Think light bright and dry
- a Nama that speaks to those who like clean and compact brews with
subtle fruit elements of green apple and white grapes. The balanced
delivery is dry and so to is the quick finish. More Granny Smith
qualities come out in a smaller vessel.
WORD: Dry
WINE: Crisp Reds/Dry whites
BEER: Tight ales
FOODS: Very clean cuisines.
$28/720ml
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Dewanoyuki Hibirakujitsu
From Yamagata Prefecture.
Tokubetsu Junmai Nama.
SMV: -1.5 Acidity: 1.8
The nose on this unpasteurized seasonal sake is filled with
blueberry, peach, tropical fruit, and a hint of chocolate aromas.
Wow - talk about a velvety smooth Nama sake! Round, fat and chewy
this brew is loaded with tropical fruit flavors including fleshy
papaya and mango, but the elevated acidity brings out more richness
than sweetness. Big, soft and well-balanced this sake drinks like a
hug in your mouth. A bigger vessel brings forth more fruit tones.
WORD: Smooth
WINE: Deep Pinot Noir/ Fat whites
BEER: Creamy Ales
FOODS: Grilled fare, tofu, avocado salads, creamy cheeses.
$26/720ml
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Gokyo Arabashiri
From Yamaguchi Prefecture.
Junmai Nama Genshu.
SMV: 3.5 Acidity: 1.7
This fresh seasonally released unpasteurized sake has a fragrant
nose with apple, vanilla, sweet rice aromas. Gokyo is back and as
vast as ever - deep flavors ride a massive fluid that carries a
complexity founded on the strong legs of umami. Behold a gripping
brew that is a marathon of layered flavors such as honey, figs,
burnt sugar and a hint of butternut squash. Chewy, ripe, and
expansive this is a full-bodied drinking experience.
WORD: Complex
WINE: Huge reds/ Massive whites
BEERS: Stouts
FOODS: Kitchen sink - throw anything at this sake!
$30/720ml
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| • |
Kaika Shiboritate
From Tochigi Prefecture.
Tokubetsu Junmai Muroka Genshu.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.6
This unpasteurized seasonally released sake has a deep aroma
offering filled with cherry, mineral, bamboo and ripe banana
elements. Talk about a massive Nama sake - this brew screams huge
flavors on a deep and robust acidity slide. A virtual puppet show
of flavors such as rich fruits and sweet rice pop up and down at
different times. The elevated alcohol content produces a feisty
finish with a long goodbye. Expansive and gutsy this non-charcoal-
filtered (Muroka) sake relaxes more near room temperature.
WORD: Massive
WINE: Huge Zins/High acidic whites
BEER: Stouts
FOODS: From spicy to meaty it all works!
$26/720ml
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You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com/sakes.php
Our inventory list is here.
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True Selects - Miwa and Lynette Select Monthly Brews
Welcome to the latest new "big thing" at True Sake! "True Selects"
represents featured sakes that are selected and championed by Miwa and
Lynette - our two resident sake studs. As we can only stock so many
different brands of sake - think limited space - this effort is a way
to offer sakes that we wouldn't usually carry. They will select by
price-point, uniqueness, availability, and other factors that make
these selections unusual for the store.
For June:
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Miwa = Watari Bune "Taihekai Tokubetsu Junmai from Akita Prefecture
Lynette = Bondai Junmai from Fukuoka Prefecture
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Come on in or phone and ask why these brews speak to them and of
course why they will speak
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True Sake Facts - We are now shipping 1.8L bottles in one and two
packs!
For those out of the state of California I am sorry to report that our
efforts to identify, register, and comply with allowable states to
ship from CA to you has gone from difficult to darn near impossible.
New reporting and complying requirements are overwhelming and
extremely expensive - almost too much so for a small concern such as
True Sake. It is a simple fact that the paper work and the upfront
monetary expenses do not justify the effort. But we are still looking
for a way! We will not give up just yet, and without giving up too
much info let it be known that I am currently "in negotiations" with a
group that may be a perfect conduit of sorts.
That said - for those Californians who enjoy their sakes large
(ishobin 1.8L bottles) we now can get them to you in single bottle
packs and double bottle packs. That is 60 ounces of love in each
bottle and it has your name written all over it! So you value hunters
or party people remember that ishobins keep very well in the fridge
when opened. And there is no better way to fill your ice carafes!
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True Sake In The News - "Cities By Foot" Video Tour of True Sake
You've seen 'em - You may even own a pair - Or you may be completely
sick of 'em - But there is no denying the success of the footwear
explosion known as "Crocs." I myself had probably the first pair of
Crocs in the Bay Area - went to a wedding in Florida Keys and this
hardcore fishing store had the first pairs available in Florida. I
bought two pairs - felt totally unique and cool for about a year -
then they were everywhere! (I only don my Crocs now when I go to
Japan, because A) they are so light - they keep the luggage weight
down and B) when you are visiting and working in breweries you must
wear a shoe that is easy-on easy-off! Crocs are that ticket!)
A production company came to me and said that Crocs was starting an
on-line video tourism effort with "quality and better production than
most." Well they succeeded and here with is the Cities By Foot take on
True Sake - featuring yours truly:
http://www.citiesbyfoot.com/main/do/Shop_Detail/ locationID/69/cityID/2
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Sake Events - Save These Dates: July 27th and October 1st
June 15 - Takenotsuyu Father's Day Tasting
Masao Aisawa from Takenotsuyu Brewery in Yamagata Prefecture and Sozai
Restaurant/Izakaya team up for a Father's Day Tasting celebrating this
brewery's excellent sakes.
Please read the email description from
Sozai Restaurant:
- Title: Father's Day Sake Pairing Featuring Take no Tsuyu Shuzo
- What it is: Over the brief history of Sozai Restaurant, Take no
Tsuyu (Bamboo Tears) Junmai has become the "Sake of the Inner
Sunset," a huge hit with anyone seduced to try it by General
Manager Gil Payne. It is Sozai's top selling Sake, and Gil's
absolute favorite sake to have with Izakaya-style tapas! To take
advantage of Take no Tsuyu owner/master brewer - Sakagura-san's
brief visit to the Bay Area, we have the honor of inviting you to
experience a sake pairing with four of his wonderful sakes with
four specially crafted tapas plates. We have the added benefit and
honor of meeting him and hearing the story of this outstanding kura
from Yamagata-ken. Additionally, Gil & Mari have the honor of
hosting Mari's father (who spawned Gil's wider interest in sake)
and mother from Yokohama.
- When: Sunday, June 15th, Father's Day, 6 - 8 PM
- How Much: $30 per person for four sakes and four plates [Regular
menu to be available following the tasting.]
- Who to contact: For reservations, call Sozai at 415-681-7150. You
will be contacted back for confirmation and payment.
June 26th - Sake Tasting at Anzu
Come and meet the brewers of Kasumi Tsuru (a master of Kimoto and
Yamahai brewing) and Wataribune (who revived the mystic Wataribune
rice). There will be 8 sakes to taste, including a Namazake from
each brewery, with appetizers by Chef Barney Brown.
- When: Thursday, June 26th, 6pm - 7pm
- Where: Anzu (at Nikko Hotel) 222 Mason St. SF
- 8 Sakes to be poured:
- Kasumi Tsuru Kimoto Extra Dry
- Kasumi Tsuru Yamahai Ginjo
- Kasumi Tsuru Yamahai Junmai
- Wataribune Shiboritate Namazake Genshu
- Taiheikai Tokubetsu Junmai
- Wataribune Junmai Ginjo 55
- Wataribune Junmai Daiginjo
- Price: $35 inclusive
- What else: Limited to 30 people. Validated parking
- Reservations: Call Anzu to make your reservation: 415-394-1108
http://www.restaurantANZU.com
July 27 - True Sake's 5th Anniversary Party at Sebo
Save The Date -
more info to come in the July Newsletter.
August 10-12 - Sake Professional Course in SF
Hosted by John Gauntner
(sakecoursestateside @ sake-world.com)
October 1st - True Sake Presents: Sake Day 2008
Save The Date (THIS
EVENT ALWAYS SELLS OUT IN DAYS) - more info to come.
October 23rd - Joy of Sake in SF
http://www.joyofsake.com
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"Ask Beau" - "Any differences on male and female preferences?"
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Hi Beau,
I've been doing my own sake taste testing (secretly). I've noticed
that the men and women in my group of friends have completely
different sake taste buds. Then after reading the May sake
newsletter (the guest sake writer...he liked one girlfriend liked
another) I wondered if you have noticed any differences on male and
female preferences?
Sincerely your sake-loving friend,
Amanda A.
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This is a great question with sooooooooo many ways to answer it!
Firstly our arms, feet, sweat glands, internal plumbing etc are
different so why too shouldn't our palates be? Every person - man or
woman - has a different palate. It's that simple. The physiology of
our palates/senses are completely unique to each and everyone of us.
(We all smell/taste ever so slightly differently than one another).
There are no two exactly matched palates. But, in general ballpark
terms the realm of grouping palates by gender is doable I would
imagine - although it is "generalized" at best.
I have been hosting sake tastings, pairings, and events for the past 6
years and can unequivocally say that I have never seen a pattern that
is so pronounced that it would support your experiment. And trust me
when I say that I have set up plenty of events to capture this man vs.
woman difference. It never presents itself. In fact, the brews that I
would assume the women would like are favored more by the guys and
vice versa. I would call this an "Entrapment Tasting." What you are
discussing is more of a "Flock Tasting" where certain people flock to
similar sakes. Specifically in your case the women flocked to certain
brews and the guys flocked to another.
In a subsequent email I asked if you had "discussions" as part of the
tasting. This is where "Flock Tastings" thrive, but you said no that
you and your hubby each picked one brew that a "man" likes and one
that a "women" likes and then you go blind.
"The tastings have been blind. I offer two different sakes (one I like
as a woman and one my husband likes), and then I ask them which they
prefer. There has only been one time where a man crossed the gender
divide. I think it is really interesting."
In this case, your sample is far too small! A two brew tasting is
pretty limited! I say pick four sakes at the very least, and put them
in a room that is separate from the party. Then make each taster go
through into the private room one at a time, and do their tasting
alone. (Make certain that those who are waiting to taste don't eat or
drink anything that will factor onto their palate.)
I will end by saying that I do believe that women have a far better
sense of smell - in general. (Especially pregnant women!) And there
are more and more women-centric sake tasting groups flourishing in
Japan that count on this difference. So perhaps there is something to
the fact that men and women taste differently - I just don't see it
that often. (This reply did not touch on the "hard science" of the
true physiological differences between "us" which is pure fact!)
Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All other correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)
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The SECRET WORD
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those
who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note
for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake
with a story, and this month's story is "Futsu-shu" or below premium
quality sake! Yes, there is sake made that is not "Premium"! Funny
enough here in the US pretty much only "premium" sake is available.
Whereas in Japan the vast majority of sake made and consumed is
"below" premium or "Futsu-shu." Basically the milling percentage and
rice types are the major determinants - also large batch vs. small
handcrafted as well. The big breweries make a ton of non-premium sake.
However the brew that we are offering has Junmai milling rates - so
technically it is a premium brew but the brewery quantifies it as
their "Futsu-shu" - so we won't argue! But man! What great "cheap"
sake!
Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell
your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber,
always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD,
and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include
the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy
three other sakes.
This month's brew is "Futsu-shu" (regular or non-premium) sake from a
brewery in Yamagata called Eiko Fuji or "Glorious Mount Fuji." The sake
is called Ban-Ryu (10,000 Ways) and we are going to sell this sake for
$19/720ml bottle but for you sake-jockeys we will part with this very
smooth brew for a mere $10.
And the SECRET WORD is... check your email inbox! We only give out the
SECRET WORD in the mailed Newsletter!
So sign up for the Newsletter!
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Thank you for reading!
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