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October 2008

True Sake
premier merchants of fine sake
Dear Sake Drinker,

Welcome to the October Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. In this month's rag read about the ancient genesis of sake, try to walk- the-sake-walk, check out Chikurin, bring a bottle of brew to a crab shack, and see all of the sake events this month including the always enjoyable Joy of Sake tasting on October 23rd.

In this issue:



Sake Story - Sake As A Food Source

When was the last time that you ate booze? A good solid square meal of alcohol? A big heaping portion of giggle juice? And no your watermelon with a hole filled with vodka does not count. Neither does that jello shot! Nor does your rum cake. Nope those do not constitute a solid booze-filled dinner. Alcohol - more specifically sake is "The" original fueled-up meal that brought field-fermentation to the farmer.

Rice is and was a three-meal-deal in Japan. No other elements of an alcoholic beverage can lay claim to this "necessity" status.

Do you think ancient Germans (sorry history buffs) ate bowls of fermented hops and barley for lunch? How about those ancient French (again apologies history geeks)? Do you think they hunkered down over brimming bowels of fermented grapes for dinner? In all likelihood the answer is nuh-uh! But wait! Hold that image! See a course clay bowl filled with a mush resembling oatmeal. Look further and see a group of farmers sitting around a large wooden bucket filled with the same mash and guess what? They are eating sake in its most ancient and raw form.

Indeed, the genesis of sake (nihonshu or wine of Japan) was not a crystal clear liquid that is best served chilled in fancy bar glasses. No, rather sake in its oldest carnation was a 3%-5% alcohol- based bowl of rice that required looking away and a hefty appetite. Sake was a meal. Sake was food. It was not simply an "alcohol" doing that wonderful magic that booze is associated with. Sake was functional. It was sustenance. It was necessary, and oh yah it got good hard working people buzzed!

Like most all things sake can be traced back to ancient China, as this is where rice has its "ground zero." For the sake of speaking about sake in its modern context Japan has been and continues to be the torch-bearing nation for this starchy libation. Roughly 2,500 years ago wet-rice cultivation began on the island of Japan. And those cultivating rice were the first recipients of this fermented wonder that was said to have been used to liquor up ancient beasts so that they could be felled by mere mortals.

Farming was a communal occupation, and rice was the most communal of bonds. It was a food source - so valued that at one time it was even traded as a currency. But more importantly rice brought people together. It brought folks together to chew and spit! Yes, the earliest recorded history of sake spoke about a form of brew that was created by chewing rice and spitting the gob into a wooden bucket - "kuchikami no sake" or "chewed in the mouth sake." Those glorious farmers somehow realized that if they chewed the rice and spat it out into wooden tubs or buckets that the enzymes in their mouths would break the long-chain starch molecules into a glucose, and then this glucose would sit in the bucket for about a week and allow airborne yeasts to propagate and ferment the glucose into wonderful alcohol.

Bingo! A meal and a party in one! And that is indeed what happened. Villages used religious occasions to get groups together to chew and spit en mass to create a large batch of saliva sake - my words not theirs. Usually the village leader would start the process and the rest of the villagers would join the spit-a-thon. Then and thankfully some smart and perhaps germaphobic farmer said "I am sick of drinking Yoshi's spit," and suggested that he would prefer the ricey spit of a virgin. And so began the next phase of sake in its oldest form - Bijinshu or "beautiful girl sake" that basically was a virginal masterpiece.

Yes, the village virgins would all gather and chew rice as a team descended from the gods. Then they would release their globby glory into the wind to find a warm gooey home in the bottom of very receptive receptacle. Pure heaven. A sustenance so dreamy that people no longer cringed at the thought of Yoshi's spit. A product so marketable that Anheuser Bush is considering making a beer called Bud Virgin. Yes, sake became sexy as well as savory.

But let's not kid ourselves - the sake that we are speaking about still resembled a gruel that was chunky and funky. How did they eat this fermented food source? Originally with hands and disposable Purrell Towelettes.

Then yet another enterprising farmer, who was tired of trying to drink the "good stuff" at the bottom of the bowl through the mush thought about affixing a straw to the bottom-side. In this scenario the heavy mush remained on the top and the "heavenly juice" sat in the bottom, easily extracted with pursed lips and a sucking sound. (For those having a hard time picturing this, think about your last 7-11 slurpee or slushy at the movies - ice on top, good stuff on bottom.)

5th century in Japan saw a very unique vessel shaped like an hour- glass with a larger bowl on top and a small bowl on the bottom with an attached straw - heavy mash on top and fluid running down into lower bowl with straw - (Again for those having difficulty seeing this image think of a ridiculously large green tube of alcohol on Bourbon Street). Ah but 6th century Japan saw the advent of a bowl of sake again. Just a bowl of fermented gruel that required the use of long pincers, almost like modern-day eyebrow tweezers to lift the chunks of sake out to be eaten and the bowl to be tipped and sipped - very civilized, very 6th century.

The concept of fine dining has come a very long way since bowls of fermented gruel shared amongst farmers and village virgins. Or has it?

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Sake Humor - Well Not Really That Funny!

Okay, so this isn't really pure sake. But a friend sent me this website and thought that it had sake consumption applications. It's amusing at first. Then addictive. Then downright compulsive. Sort of like a good sake! Best of luck and please be certain to do this on- line and not in real life. I won't tell you my record, but feel free to send me yours and I will post the winner's best - (No names of course!)

http://fun.drno.de/flash/HomeRun.swf


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Sake Spotlight - Tamiko Ishidate Looks At Chikurin Junmai Ginjo

"Sake Spotlight" is a unique section within the Newsletter that takes a closer look at specific sakes that may be purchased at True Sake. I approach different professionals within the industry to give their perspectives and insights to the how, what and why's for very special sakes. These insiders are importers, brewers, authors, sake sommeliers, or just enthusiasts who will take your knowledge base a little further. What I like about this segment is that often my review is quite different than that of the guest professional's adding to the point that there is no right or wrong when discussing your opinion about sake.


Tamiko Ishidate is a fellow sake/food enthusiast who resides in the San Francisco Bay Area. Tamiko works in the sake industry, and conducts periodic tasting events throughout the region and beyond. She is a superstar within the sake community, because she is great at promoting sake. For any comments or inquiries, please email her at Please send your sake specific questions to tamiko @ jotosake.com.

Sake enthusiasts, such as readers of True Sake's e-newsletter, would all agree that the flavors, styles and quality of sake vary within a range much narrower than that of, say, wine. In this world of subtleness and nuances, one must admit it's a joy to find a sake that has a unique character that makes it stand out among a crowd of common beauty. It is my honor to share such sake of character today in this issue of Sake Spotlight.

The word "Karoyaka" translates as "Lightness". Lightness is not a name given to this sake merely for being: rather, it is simply a feeling. This sake in its tall frosted glass with a skin-toned label evokes a feeling similar to perhaps a fine bottle of Alsatian Riesling. Certainly, when you stick your nose into a glass filled with this well-chilled brew, the nose is reminiscent of Champagne, with a hint of sage and cherry. But the look and the nose are not where the character ends. Take a sip and experience the particular "weight" that's very unique to this sake. The "weight" is a combination of cream, oil and Mochi-like sweetness. How do you brew a sake like this? According to Mr. Marumoto, you really don't: you make the sake that way AFTER the sake was brewed. But how??

Mr. Marumoto is the 7th generation president of Marumoto Brewery in Okayama prefecture, an hour train-ride from Kyoto. His approach to making sake is a fine combination of purist and progressive- experimentalist. Above all, he is a rice fanatic. He grows his own rice and, not only that, he grows them organic, or better said, wild. "Yamadanishiki is a wild rice, that grows best when left alone," according to Mr. Marumoto. He hardly even gives fertilizer. It's a total "yasei-ji", or a wild child. A very generous spacing between rice stalks allows maximum exposure to air and sunshine - an environment ideal for growing healthy rice. Mr. Marumoto is a great model for the terroir of the sake world: he even tastes the soil to check its nutrients. He can also tell the health of rice from the hue of its color when it's ready to be harvested in the fall. "Rice makes tasty sake", has been the motto of Marumoto Brewery for 20 years now. Naturally, he only makes Junmai sakes for his Chikurin brand.

This rather purist approach to making sake is counter-balanced by his much more progressive, rather unusual practice of "blending". Indeed, "Blending Day" is one of the most important days at the Marumoto Brewery, in which Mr. Marumoto himself carefully blends koshu or aged sake into his freshly-brewed sake. Karoyaka, in particular, has a small amount of sake brewed 2 to 5 years prior, stored unpasteurized in refrigerated storage tanks. The addition of aged sake gives this lightness sake weight and character: much like chewing on sweet Mochi rice, the natural sweetness of wild Yamadanishiki rice coats your palate and puffs up again in the finish. The sake is flavorful and quite hardy in pairing.

Hardy, yes - Karoyaka is a great sake for food pairing. Bring on the sweet, bring on the fruit, oil, and acidity. It's a picnic sake, ceviche sake, Hamachi tartar sake, and aged goat cheese sake. At a brewers dinner at Yoshi's a few weeks ago, it was paired with UK Langostine Salad: fresh ogo seaweed, Balloon tomato confit, and sea urchin vinaigrette - it makes my mouth water remembering the perfect pairing of the sake with this exquisite dish. Even the tomato confit was delicious - now, that's a sake challenge!!!


Ahhhhh what a great sake! Thank you Tamiko for shedding more light on this nihonshu that I used as the "Welcoming Sake" for Sake Day 2006.

I love this nihonshu and love this brewery! Herewith is my review of said brew:

Chikurin Karoyaka "Bamboo Forest"
From Okayama Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.4

This Ginjo is actually milled to 50% Dai Ginjo levels, and has a gentle aroma profile with hints of plum, yellow bell pepper, grass, and sunflowers. Think silky when first tasting this extremely soft Ginjo that is so clean it is almost watery. There are taste treasures of apricot, watermelon, white grapes, and a hint of cherries in this semi-thick "like water" brew. The slippery semi-dry flow is perfect for those looking to find a gentle sake void of harsh booziness.

WORD: Slippery
WINE: Soft reds/silky whites
BEER: Clean ales
FOODS: Sushi, sashimi, grilled white fish, creamy risotto.


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Sake Challenge - Sake Goes To Crab Shacks & Fish Houses!

I am on a spiritual sake quest that will finally put a nail in the coffin of "sake can only be consumed at a sushi restaurant" mantra. Wake up people! Food and sake go together - always have and always will. If it has a tail, roots, feathers, leaves or a damn beak sake will go with it - anytime and any place. And that is my quest - the place or origin of the cuisine does not matter. It can be Spanish, Italian, Brazilian or ughhhh British chow and sake will walk the walk. Japan has chickens! Japan has salad! Japan has beef! Japan has spicy and savory dishes! Japan has sweet and salty fare, so why not think about having sake with these "tones" from other countries?

The Sake Challenge is my way for you great consumers to see outside of the sushi paradigm, and to achieve this "new view on brew" I will usually select two different sake styles and price-points and bring them to a non-Japanese restaurant with a celebrity, sake-sleuth or hell even a friend in tow. Read about past challenges:


When reviewing restaurants and their specific cuisines paired with sake I use the following criteria:
  • Works World Class (WWC)
  • Works Well (WW)
  • Works (W)
  • Does Not Work (DNW)
This criterion is more true to the mission of bringing a beverage to a restaurant not knowing what you will pair with. The point is to make the general pairings "work." Rare is the day that you bring a specific wine or sake to pair with a specific dish - we look for generalities and the entire eating/drinking experience. Think of fishing with a net as opposed to a hook and line - a pairing is supposed to reach out and catch more flavors as opposed to just hitting one match.

This month's challenge stems from a brief trip that I took to Half Moon Bay, which is 45 minute south of San Francisco. While on a semi- vacation I visited three different sea food restaurants that could best be described by the title "crab shacks" loaded with freshly caught local sea fare.

Let me be blunt - sake works with everything from the ocean! So seafood restaurants are slamdunks! Oysters? Of course! Crab? Absolutely! Shrimp? You bet! Calamari? No prob! Seafood dives are the best grounds for bringing a bottle of sake. Herewith are some general pairings that exploded and excelled so much that you should take serious note! (What really pleased me is that almost every sake worked really well with each cocktail sauce from each restaurant)

Here are the brews that I brought: Kanbara Junmai Ginjo, Wakatake Onigoroshi Junmai Ginjo, Gokyo Junmai, Senpuku Junmai Dai Ginjo, and Chikurin Junmai Ginjo.

The three restaurants were "Sam's Chowder House" (Grade A) - "Miramar Beach Restaurant" (Grade C+) - "Ketch Joanne Restaurant" (Grade A/A+)

I will list the top five pairings and the three really good pairings and one or two that didn't work:
  1. Sam's Chowder House - Shrimp Cocktail paired with Kanbara "Bride of the Fox" Junmai Ginjo.

    The hint of natural sweetness in the shrimp alone pulls out a touch of fruit in the sake. The lemon wedge squeezed over the shrimp makes a very elegant pairing - bright and rich! The cocktail sauce with the shrimp bite creates an incredibly balanced and smoky - honey-like flavor that is superb. The body of the brew is fitting! WWC

  2. Sam's Chowder House - Crab Louise Salad paired with Wakatake Junmai Ginjo.

    The creaminess of the dressing makes the brew go even and balanced. The freshness and crispiness of the lettuce brings out a brightness of the sake - it stays up with the pairing. A good and even compliment. Makes sense - does not detract - compliments the fresh flavors. WW

  3. Miramar Beach Restaurant - Seafood Margarita paired with Senpuku Kura Junmai Dai Ginjo Genshu.

    This ceviche style dungness crab, shrimp, scallop and cod in lime juice and tomatoes goes very well with acidity of the sake. The balance of the brew neutralizes the brashness of the dish - the tomato and citrus elements bond with the fruitiness of the sake. A very good handshake of bold flavors made fresher and more even with the sake. WW

  4. Ketch Joanne Restaurant - Avocado Stuffed with Crab paired with Chikurin Junmai Ginjo.

    The creaminess of the sake goes well with the soft textures of the avo and the crab - a velvety blend. The sweetness of the brew really works - good feeling but even better flavor. Each element works - the avo yes - the crab yes - the cocktail sauce yes. Just a powerfully clean and firm pairing that brings natural sweetness out and balances the cocktail sauce. WW

  5. Sam's Chowder House - Cioppino paired with Kanbara Junmai Ginjo.

    Savory shellfish stew just pumps with this savory Ginjo. Great texture and feel of this sake goes straight at the flavor - buttery tomato richness is enhanced by the brew - great pairing. The acidity gets blended into a mouthful of rich and savory flavors that are buoyed by a well-balanced sake. WW
Three good pairings:
  1. Sam's Chowder House - Seafood Paella paired with Wakatake Junmai Ginjo.

    This Spanish rice based dish dances very well with the brightness of the sake. The Ginjo takes the acidity of the pairing out of the picture and brings a richness to the dish. The balance is very solid as a solid sake meets in the middle of the road with large flavors - good play. There is some heat as in acidity juggling, but it all goes even. WW

  2. Miramar Beach Restaurant - Crab Cake paired with Gokyo Junmai.

    This fried crab cake is buffered by the sake. The Gokyo enveloped the oily fried coating and brings out a savory and sweet overtone that works very well. This is a very good texture play that would be even better if the crab cake weren't overcooked! W

  3. Ketch Joanne Restaurant - Oyster Shooter paired with Chikurin Junmai Ginjo.

    This oyster shooter with cocktail sauce is offered with Vodka, but I did with sake. The Chikurin went well with the briny elements of the oyster - yes that means a fruity brew partied with salty flavor. Throw in the cocktail sauce and this pairing is quite nice! W
One that didn't work:
  1. Sam's Chowder House - New England Clam Chowder paired with Kanbara Junmai Ginjo.

    The acidity of the sake comes out too strong against the creaminess of the dish. This is a distraction. The richness of the brew does not balance with the mild cream tones of the chowder - makes me wonder what wine would work. It's not cloying, but it is not a good pairing either. DNW
In summary please walk away from this Crab Shack Sake Boogie with the firm belief that sake works. The balance of a starch-based beverage far and away excels over a grape juice when it comes to elements from the sea. The flavors were outstanding and the texture and feeling of most of these pairings were so welcoming. Sake and seafood make great partners. The next time that you think about brewski and a bucket of clams or a grilled fish and a Sauvignon Blanc think about adding sake to the mix. Sake works - sake belongs!

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New Store Arrivals - Tsukasbotan, Miyasaka, Houraisen (angry fish)

Houraisen "Gin" "Angry Fish"
From Aichi Prefecture.
Junmai Dai Ginjo.
SMV: NA Acidity: NA
This "Ultra" Dai Ginjo (40%) that was cold aged for 2 1/2 years has a minerally and meaty nosed filled with rich fruit, rice, and hint of banana elements. Welcome to the "anti" Dai Ginjo that is not fruity and silly, rather it is a deep and expansive brew that has as much attitude as the fish on the label. Crisp and bright, yet round and plump - how did they do that? It is a semi-chewy brew with complex layers of flavors such as caramel, plums, figs, raisins, and a full-bodied acidity that rounds out the incredibly regal mouthful. If you like a Dai Ginjo with attitude and long finish that is robust and beefy reel this fish into your glass.

WORD: Rich
WINE: Deep reds/Huge whites
BEER: Huge ales
FOODS: Complex cuisines, pate, cheese courses, smoked game.
$120/720ml


Tsukasabotan "Fuin-Shu"
From Koichi Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.4

The nose on this dry Ginjo is made up of mineral, citrus, sunflower, and straw elements. A very good example of a "base" sake that is not overly fruity, but has layers of very neutral flavors such as minerals, rice, and a hint of fig and creme brulee. Extremely even and balanced and the strength rests in the dryness of this flavorful sake. A very slick fluid that gets smoother and even more flavorful at room temperature. Think round, clean, dry and balanced with a great rice flavor - truly a sake drinkers sake.

WORD: Dry
WINE: Pinot Noir/Pinot Griggio
BEER: Dry Pilsners
FOODS: Salty grilled fare, clean cooked fish, oysters, bread.
$32/720ml


Miyasaka "Yawaraka"
From Nagano Prefecture.
Yamahai Junmai.
SMV: -4 Acidity: 1.4

This old-style Junmai from Masumi brewery has a unique aroma profile filled rice, caramel, butterscotch, cream and grain elements. Talk about a smooth operator, this low-alcohol (12%) brew has a light buoyancy that is very drinkable and quite unique for a Yamahai sake. For such a subtle brew there are loads of flavors to unearth - like honeydew, Asian applepear, young peach and plum, with a hint of citrus tones. Thin texture and juicy flavor, elegant and light, with a tip-of-the-tongue sweetness that dances with gentle lactic acidity. At room temperature look for more richness and a hint of caramel.

WORD: Elegant
WINE: Light reds/Crisp whites
BEER: Light ales
FOODS: Soft flavors with salty and greasy goodness.
$22/720ml


You can review many of our sakes on our web site.

Our inventory list is here.

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True Selects - Miwa and Lynette Select Monthly Brews

Miwa & Lynette Welcome to "True Selects" - featured sakes that are selected and championed by Miwa and Lynette - our two resident sake studs. As we can only stock so many different brands of sake - think limited space - this effort is a way to offer sakes that we wouldn't usually carry. They will select by price-point, uniqueness, availability, and other factors that make these selections unusual for the store.

Miwa = Naraman Junmai Muroka Bin Hiire

This limited edition line of Naraman is from the Yumegogoro Brewery in Fukushima. Only 3000 bottles are produced in one year. It is pasteurized once in the bottle (bin hiire) and not charcoal filtered (muroka). This sake has a fruity nose like a ginjo-style sake and has a nama (un-pasteurized) like quality. Last month in Tokyo, I happened to meet the brewer, Mr. Nobuo Shoji, at a sake tasting. He recommended serving this sake warm. (Of course, it is good chilled, too.)

SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.5
Rice: Gokyakumankoku, milled to 55%
Yeast: Utsukushimayume
Price: $24 (720ml)


Lynette = Kamoshibito Kuheiji Ginjo

Very expressive, snappy, vivid and bright. Vivacious with an almost spritzy feel. Fruity and juicy with hints of tart berries.

SMV +1, acidity 1.6
50% polishing
From Chubu, Aichi


Come on in or phone and ask why these brews speak to them and of course why they will speak

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Sake Events

October 22nd - Sake Pairing Dinner at Bushitei

Make reservations now for this special event night at Bushi~tei. An exquisite, seasonal 5 course dinner, prepared by Chef Seiji "Waka" Wakabayashi, will be paired with 6 extraordinary artisan sakes. The importer will be present to share the history and stories behind each.

• When: Wednesday, October 22nd 6:30pm~
• Where: Bushitei (1638 Post St. SF)
• Price: $85 (plus tax and gratuity)
• What else: Limited to 20 people

Reservations: Call Bushitei at 415-440-4959


Joy of Sake October 23rd - Joy of Sake in SF

http://www.joyofsake.com

Joy of Sake will extend a $10 discount to True Sake newsletter recipients if they go to the on-line ticket store and enter a the promotional code. Pay attention to your email inbox, code will come next week.




October 30th - Levende "FAR" East Sake Pairing

Old Oakland favorite Levende East is featuring premium sake selections on Thursday, October 30th from 5p-8p. A flight of three artisan sakes from Okayama, Akita and Hyogo will be paired with three delectable appetizers created by Levende Executive Chef Sean Randall. Sake expert will be on hand to answer all of your sake questions. Don't miss this astonishing culinary occasion in downtown Oakland!!

• When: Thursday 10/30/08 from 5:30p-8:30p
• Where: Levende East (827 Washington St. @ 9th St. Oakland)
• Price: $25 for a flight of 3 sakes and 3 tasting-portion appetizers

Please call 510.835.5585 for reservations, space is limited


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"Ask Beau" - "What is koji - really?"

I really liked this question that came from Sarah D. from Vail, CO. who wrote:

"I am confused about the word koji. Is it the mold or is it the molded rice? What is koji really?"

Sarah the lines have been blurred here and many folks make the same mistake. When speaking about the actual mold (Aspergillus Oryzae) you would say the word "koji-kin" - this is the yellow mold that influences flavor and aroma in most sakes and is responsible for breaking the starch molecules into glucose. The steamed rice that gets "sprinkled" with this mold (usually from cans with small holes or mesh) is called "koji" or "koji-mai." So when speaking specifically about "koji" you are talking about the inoculated rice itself.

(On a side note Koji-Kin has a nickname in the brewing industry - "moyashi" which is the Japanese name for bean sprouts. Huh? Yes if you look through a microscope the mold looks like bean sprouts or mushrooms. And without question - if you tour a brewery - nine out of ten times you will see a photo of microscopic "koji-kin" looking very much like a large sprout on the wall somewhere.)

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All other correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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The SECRET WORD

True Sake Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those who are new - the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is two stellar Junmai Ginjo's that are sort of pricey but worth fleshing out at half price! The first is "Moon on the Water" (Fukucho) from Hiroshima and the second is Narutotai Yamahai Junmai Ginjo (the more dignified brother of the Nama Ginjo Genshu that we sell in the can!).

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy three other sakes.

We typically would sell these Junmai Ginjo's for $38 and $42 but for you sake jockeys we will sell these sakes for $19 and $21 per brew. And the SECRET WORD is... Well, we only give out the SECRET WORD to those on our mailing list! So sign up for the Newsletter!

PLEASE NOTE THAT WE HAVE A LIMITED SUPPLY OF THESE TWO BREWS - SO GET IN EARLY!

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Thank you for reading!


True Sake

Consider this...

The brewery in Iwate Prefecture called Nanbu Bijin uses a special (white) koji mold for their nama-sake, because it creates a better aroma that lasts a little longer than their normal (yellow) koji-kin.


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