AMERICA'S FIRST SAKE STORE 1 (415) 355-9555  
HOMESTORESAKESLEARNSAKE BUZZTRUE STORY

Go to Newsletter Archive   Subscribe to Newsletter

September 2005

True Sake
premier merchants of fine sake
Welcome to the thirteenth installment of America's sake-centric newsletter. September is a big month for sake tasting events. I strongly recommend that you visit the Joy of Sake Tasting on the 15th (please buy your tickets from True Sake: 415-355-9555) also there is a great sake dinner on the 19th. But best of all we will be hosting a "Sake Day" Tasting on October 1st at Ft. Mason that will celebrate the day of sake appreciation in Japan – known as Sake Day. Please see our events section immediately for more details and order your tickets soon as these events sell out quickly.

We at True Sake have been deeply moved by the horrible events that have taken place on the Gulf Coast, and would like to donate 5% of our September sales in the store to the people hardest hit by Katrina. September is usually one of our best months, but you can make it better by purchasing sake for this effort. We did amazing things for the Tsunami victims (raised $3,500) and now we are trying to do spectacular things for our very own fellow Americans. Please drink a toast to life and help True Sake make a huge donation to the Red Cross. In this issue:


Hosting A Sake Tasting

I often get asked what is the best way to entertain with sake and how can we hold a tasting that is both fun and educational? The answer is simple really. Just get some sake and get some mouths. Seriously having a sake shindig is quite like having a wine tasting except people may have less confidence in their sake understanding. But the bottom line is that it is all about people and their likes and dislikes. So the best way to approach a sake tasting adventure is to think about making almost everybody happy. (Some folks will never be happy – so screw them.) Herewith are some scenarios and methods for having a sake gathering that will leave its mark and make you look like a hero.

  • Think Big
    A tasting should be 4 or more sakes. Most palates crap out after about 6 sakes, so it is important to have a considerable offering that will appeal to most people. What you are looking for when picking the sakes is variety. Don't get 6 sakes that speak to people who like dry sake. Get a smattering of all sorts of sake offerings. Super dry, super sweet, really acidic, really low acidic, old-style sakes, modern method sakes, crisp, clean, HUGE, chewy, thin, thick, bitter, astringent, from different prefectures etc. Also try to cover the category bases, i.e. Junmai (70%) Ginjo (60%) and Dai Ginjo (50%) as well as sub categories like the three big "Un's" – Unpasteurized (Nama), Unfiltered (Nigori), and Undiluted (Genshu).
  • The Vessel
    A tasting can also shatter the old misconception that you must drink out of little o'choko's (the small ceramic cups for hot sake). Try a variety of glassware - wine glasses, shot glasses, even that set of Pottery Barn sake cups. Try it for yourself. Get some cedar masu (wooden squares) and taste how the flavor of cedar can overwhelm a sake or bring out a new flavor. Try plastic. And go really crazy, as I often do and try drinking sake out of huge glass containers like glass vases for flowers. You will notice all sorts of weird results. If you want to repeat using the glasses make sure to have distilled water as a washer between sakes. Our tap water will change the flavor of anything! And remember to taste Nigori's last, as they tend to muck up the glasses.
  • Go Blind
    Tastings can also be incredibly creative. Do a blind tasting where the bottles are covered. Number each sake and then have a chart on the wall with the numbers. Get some stickers at Walgreens – the kind that come in a pack of three colored dots, red, blue, and yellow – number the stickers one, two and three, and have your guests place their three choices – 1st, 2nd , 3rd corresponding with the sakes numbered on the wall chart. Please tell people not to be influenced by other people's choices and then reveal the sakes. You can also pick teams and pour the same sake for two teammates and make them find their sake amongst the other sakes. Line the bottles up in the middle of a table. Have two glasses on each side of the bottle filled with the sake from that bottle. Then pour sake into two other glasses for the teammates and repeat for other couples until all the sakes are represented by "seekers". The teammates line up on opposite sides of the table and taste the sakes until they have identified what is in their glasses. They then converse and write down their mutual decision until all "seekers" have selected.
  • Go Technical
    Do your homework! Read up and create a sake tasting that speaks to the nitty gritty of sake understanding. Think in terms of educating your guests. Select sakes that speak to the subtleties of the sake world - pick sakes with the exact same acidity levels, SMV's, prefectures, yeasts, rice varietals, or methods of making. Get precise. Get technical.
  • Burnin' Down The House
    Have a tasting based on temperatures of sake. Pick several sakes and try them at several temperatures. Cold, room, lightly warmed, and hot. You will be amazed how fluid this type of tasting becomes, as the experimenting becomes half the fun.
  • Fill Those Tummies
    Do not forget to get some munchies to help people stay afloat. Think in terms of salty and savory snacks, bulky foods, and items that sop up the fuel at the end of the evening.

Back to top


Sparkling Sakes

Several years ago in Japan, I tasted a sparkling sake. At the time I was saying to my dinner partner who happens to be an owner of a sake brewery that I thought sparkling sakes were sort of like wine coolers – a novelty to get people to drink sake. Well, I wasn't far off base, as I will touch upon in a second. The first sip of Ichinokura's "Suzune" was an eye-opening experience. I was completely taken aback by the refreshingly light and flavorful sake. What impressed me most was the fact that it was very "Champagne" like but in an honest to goodness sake sense. It was so unique that I found myself trying as many sparkling sakes as possible on that trip and subsequent visits. I immediately approached my exporting contacts in Japan and urged them to start sending sparkling sakes to the US, because I felt that they would speak to a large portion of established and new sake drinkers.

Although "Suzune" has not made it to the US (too limited in production), several sparkling sakes have hit our shores and more are on the way. In a small way, I take pride in developing this unique sake experience in the US. That said I cannot take credit for the first Sparkling Sake to land in the US, but it is so expensive that very few people have ever tried the "Formula Nippon" from Okunomatsu. This 720ml gorgeous bottle in a wooden box sells for $115 and was created to replace French Champagnes in the winner's circle at Formula One racing events in Japan. The good people at Okunomatsu thought "Why should we use a French product to celebrate races in Japan?" and they produced a semi-sweet and ricey sparkling sake that is lightly effervescent and very well balanced.

But on my urging more affordable Sparkling Sakes can be found in restaurants around the US. True Sake currently carries 4 sparkling sakes and will offer two more by year's end. Is this then the future of sake in America? Hardly! Sparkling sakes are being produced in Japan to court a new type of alcohol drinker to the sake table. They are specifically being made to target women and younger drinkers, who consider sake their father's drink. These sakes are all a little sweeter than your average sake (even Nigori's), and they are lower in alcohol content as well, with an average between 6-9% as opposed to the typical 15-17% for regular sakes. They are all made in mysterious and secret fashion, and most brewers will point out how their competitors make fake sparkling sake by adding carbonation. Bottom line is that they lightly pasteurize the sakes, which keeps the fermentation process going and results in naturally occurring carbonic dioxides (bubbles). It is fun to experiment with carbonic acids in sake, and I am certain that every type of sake drinker can find a sparkling sake that would speak to them in specific times and occasions.

Currently True Sake carries the following:

  • Harushika "Tokimeki" -- SMV: -80 Acidity 5.5 -- $14/300ml
  • Poochi Poochi -- SMV: -20 Acidity: 1.5 -- $12/300ml
  • Gekkeikan "Zipang" -- SMV: -14 -- $8/280ml
  • Okunomatsu Formula Nippon -- SMV: -25 Acidity: 2.5 -- $115/720ml
By the end of the year I expect to add three more Sparkling Sakes from Sudo Honke (makers of Sato No Homare – the oldest brewery in the world founded in 1147), Gokyo (amazing Sparkling Sake with incredible balance and flavor), and "Moon Rabbit" from Umenoyado (I pull a lot of watermelon from this). I figure if the oldest active brewery in Japan is making Sparkling Sake then it's time has come! (Note: These must be shipped overnight for those outside of the Bay Area.)

Back to top


New Store Arrivals

True Sake True Sake has three new visitors to our shelves and they are all in 300ml bottles.

  • Gassan – Shimane Prefecture – Junmai Ginjo – SMV: +2
    This Ginjo is plump and soft with an array of semi-sweet flavors that expand in the mouth. Fairly floral with hints of pineapple in a perfectly balanced package. A good Ginjo to pair with oily fish sushi and salty soups. $14/300ml
  • Kikusui – Niigata Prefecture – Junmai – SMV: +3
    Well it's about time that we add Kikusui's Junmai to complement our best selling Ginjo in the store. Clean and light this Junmai has peach and plum skin flavors wrapped in a crisp package that would speak to fans of tannin wines. Crisp is as crisp does so don't be afraid to pair this sake with any form of grilled fish or fried chicken. $10/300ml
  • Crazy Milk – Oita Prefecture – Nigori – SMV: -12
    Ummmmm bad name. Really bad name, but and please don't repeat this I like it a lot! So much so that it will replace two other 300ml Nigoris in the store. Oimatsu Shuzo makes this incredibly smooth nigori that is filled with powder sugar flavors. It tastes like "Adult Milk" and take note of a hidden layer of Pez elements. I am no fan of Nigori sake, especially sweet Nigori's, but this little runt has found a home. $10/300ml
You can review many of our sakes on our web site: www.truesake.com

Back to top


Sake SPOTLIGHT

I recently received an email from James G – a customer of the store and newsletter reader – who offered this thought: "Although I do enjoy reading through the anecdotes, and appreciate the good humor with which the newsletter is presented, I would find more and more detailed descriptions of the specific sakes offered much more useful to me."

And your wish is my command. I have decided to add a section to the Newsletter for those who would like to know more about specific sakes from myself and other professionals in the sake world. The Sake SPOTLIGHT section will select a sake or two for break-down and build- up. And hopefully the result will be a better understanding of how the selected sake is made, what elements to look for and what impresses those who know. But, again I must state that at the end of the day you the drinker are the champion of your own palate, which is vastly different from every other palate out there. I will lead you to the water, but it is you who must drink.

Mukune "Root of Innocence"

Junmai Ginjo from Daimon Shuzo (founded in 1826) in Osaka Prefecture. The owner is Yasutaka Daimon – a sixth generation director of the brewery and an excellent person. The head brewer was Kazuyuki Kita (There has been a major development in this regard that I will cover in the next newsletter – fascinating stuff but it is still not public information yet.)

Facts:

  • Seimaibuai: 55% (45% of the rice has been removed) This is the polishing/milling rate.
  • Rice: Yamadanishiki (one of – if not – the best brewing rice in the business)
  • Yeast: Brewer's original. (They do not purchase this yeast from the national yeast banks)
  • Nihonshu-do: +2 (This is the Sake Meter Value –SMV- which measures the residual sugars)
  • Alcohol: 16%
  • Acidity: 1.8
  • Water: Natural spring water rich in minerals
I asked John Gauntner, author – sake professional – and the "Sake Guy" his thoughts about Mukune and he provided the following:
  • "Mukune: It has one of the best balances between sweet and dry, light and heavy, and smooth and textured of any sake I know. It kind of hovers in its own force field of flavor and aroma. Yet is has great breadth; this may be one of its defining characteristics. I once commented on this to Philip Harper (assistant brewer at Daimon Shuzo), who smiled and said, "Welcome to Kansai," indicating that it was indicative of sake from that part of the country."
I myself find Mukune to be an enchantress of sorts; equal parts magical and mythical. Herewith is my review in the store:
  • Mukune "Root of Innocence" – Junmai Ginjo – Osaka Prefecture – SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.8
    Another in the group known as "the amazing noses of sake", as ripe melon, raspberries, honey, balsa wood and floral components dance together. Mukune is a mysterious sake made for those looking to explore big flavors and disappearing acidity acts. It is a complex sake that drinks like a dream, with a very solid texture that veils ripe fruit tones in a round dry package. This thick and rich sake sings an acidity movement that says goodbye before hello as if a phantom acidity structure is at work. And if you close your eyes you may very well find a vein of strawberry and anisette flavors deep in the depths of the chewy softness.
    • WORD: Complex
    • WINE: Full bodied reds/Dry Whites
    • BEER: Huge Ales/Soft Stouts
    • FOODS: Salty and savory fare, shrimp dumplings, sautéed filet of sole with lemon, oily fried food.
What John and I and many others agree upon is that there is a quality that this sake posses that is unique in the sake forest. It stands alone. Philip stated that it is a reflection of the Kansai style, but rarely have I tasted a sake that works as well as Mukune. It is seamless in movement and has a higher than normal acidity level that is there but all together not there as well. I admire the "wideness" of flavor, and have tried this sake out of many different vessels to see which one distributes the phantom acidity best. My conclusion is that a round-bottomed tall water glass with straight sides makes the most of the fluid. A very classy sake from an equally classy brewery. Worth an exploration at $38/720ml or $18/300ml.

Back to top


Special Events

September 15th – The Joy of Sake massive tasting at the Nikko Hotel.

Joy Of Sake This is a big and fun event. True Sake is a sponsor and you have already received an email flyer about this. If you decide to attend, please buy your tickets from True Sake (415.355.9555) and don't forget to visit our booth at the tasting. We will be providing a "True Sake Fast 50" card that will help you navigate your way through the over 200 hundred sakes.

Joy of Sake

September 19th - Sake Dinner at Viognierre Restaurant

bottle I will be speaking at this tremendous dinner and local sushi celebrity "Sushi Sam" will be adding his special touches to Chef Scott Giambastiani's stellar efforts. Please come sway this brilliant "wine" restaurant to the wonders of sake, and let's support their Director of Wine and Spirits Michael Ireland in his continued fascination with sake. Please give Michael a call at (650.685.3726) Tickets will go fast! So act now.

Information available here.

October 1st – SAKE DAY!

bottle Did you know that Oct. 1st is indeed The Day of Sake in Japan? Well come and celebrate this joyous occasion with your friends from True Sake for this annual celebration sake pairing. True Sake has joined forces with Mari Takahashi of Mari's Catering to offer you this splendid evening:

Event: Sake and Contemporary Japanese Kaiseki Food Pairing
Theme: Harvest of Earth
Place: Fort Mason, Building C, Rm. 370
Price: $75
Time: 7:00pm - 9:00pm

Detail: We will be celebrating Sake Day (Nihon-shu no Hi) by serving a unique and vivacious, 6-course, contemporary Japanese Kaiseki paired with fabulous Sake for each dish. Beau Timken from True Sake will explain each Sake and Mari Takahashi from Mari's Catering will introduce each plate. Please Phone True Sake 415.355.9555 or Mari 415-341-5468

Mari's Catering is owned and operated by Mari Takahashi, a native of Japan. Our team includes Japanese and American chefs and nutritionists who are passionate about creating interesting mixtures of traditional Japanese and California creations using fresh organic ingredients.

Event Information

Back to top


"Ask Beau"

Beau Timken A Newsletter reader named Kirsten G. from Washington recently asked, "I have been micro-waving my sake to heat it up, but this can't be the best method or is it?"

If you were using metal cups I would say a big no! Honestly, the microwave is used in restaurants across this nation and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. But I recommend using a pan of boiling water. A gentle heating rather than a nuking allows the alcohol to change slower, which I believe gives off a better flavor. In this regard, I say grab a "Tokkuri" (a slender tapered vessel that has a chimney top – you have seen these at any Japanese restaurant usually in white ceramic form) and fill it with a good heating sake.

What is a good heating sake? Well there are several and they do taste much better than table sakes in a warmed state. (Fukunishiki, Nishinoseki, Kamoizumi, Masumi are four names of excellent heating sakes to choose from at True Sake) Then fill a pan half way and bring the water to a boil. Put the Tokkuri in the pan and turn the flame or heat off. Do not touch the sides of the Tokkuri to get the temperature of the sake on the inside, rather lift it out of the water by the top and touch the indented bottom. This concave area creates an air pocket that is not influenced by the boiling water; rather it gives you the temperature of the contents on the inside. Americans have the propensity to overheat sake, but as long as you like it flaming that's all that really matters. I feel a temperature of about 120F is perfect for hot sake "Atsu-kan" and around 90F for "Nuru-kan" which is lightly warmed sake.

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)com"> info@truesake.com.)

Back to top


Secret Word

True Sake Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. For those that are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is Hokkaido. We have selected a very popular Junmai Ginjo called Taisetsu that is a great example of a sake that has a "hey I can taste their brewing water" flavor. Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped I can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase – meaning you must buy three other sakes. Taisetsu usually sells for $20 but for you glorious sake- jockeys your cost is $10. And the SECRET WORD is the name of our new arrival Nigori that I found surprisingly tasty.

Back to top


Thank you for reading!


True Sake

Consider this...

Only in Japan can you find coin operated dispensing machines that dispense sake in small cans or glass "One Cups." Just like our Coke machines these units are open 24/7.


STORE HOURS

tues-sat:
    12pm-7pm
sun:
    11am-6pm
mon:
    No Sake!

560 Hayes St., San Francisco, CA 94102

CONTACT US

415-355-9555
info @ truesake.com

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.

Email Marketing assistance by DialogWorks
Copyright © 2004 - 2008 TrueSake
TasteMatchTM is a registered trademark of TrueSake



Go to Newsletter Archive   Subscribe to Newsletter