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Welcome to the thirteenth installment of America's sake-centric
newsletter. September is a big month for sake tasting events. I
strongly recommend that you visit the Joy of Sake Tasting on the 15th
(please buy your tickets from True Sake: 415-355-9555) also there is a
great sake dinner on the 19th. But best of all we will be hosting a
"Sake Day" Tasting on October 1st at Ft. Mason that will celebrate the
day of sake appreciation in Japan – known as Sake Day.
Please see our
events section immediately for more details and order your tickets
soon as these events sell out quickly.
We at True Sake have been deeply moved by the horrible events that
have taken place on the Gulf Coast, and would like to donate 5% of our
September sales in the store to the people hardest hit by Katrina.
September is usually one of our best months, but you can make it
better by purchasing sake for this effort. We did amazing things for
the Tsunami victims (raised $3,500) and now we are trying to do
spectacular things for our very own fellow Americans. Please drink a
toast to life and help True Sake make a huge donation to the Red
Cross.
In this issue:
Hosting A Sake Tasting
I often get asked what is the best way to entertain with sake and how
can we hold a tasting that is both fun and educational? The answer is
simple really. Just get some sake and get some mouths. Seriously
having a sake shindig is quite like having a wine tasting except
people may have less confidence in their sake understanding. But the
bottom line is that it is all about people and their likes and
dislikes. So the best way to approach a sake tasting adventure is to
think about making almost everybody happy. (Some folks will never be
happy – so screw them.) Herewith are some scenarios and methods for
having a sake gathering that will leave its mark and make you look
like a hero.
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Think Big
A tasting should be 4 or more sakes. Most palates crap out after
about 6 sakes, so it is important to have a considerable offering
that will appeal to most people. What you are looking for when
picking the sakes is variety. Don't get 6 sakes that speak to
people who like dry sake. Get a smattering of all sorts of sake
offerings. Super dry, super sweet, really acidic, really low
acidic, old-style sakes, modern method sakes, crisp, clean, HUGE,
chewy, thin, thick, bitter, astringent, from different
prefectures etc. Also try to cover the category bases, i.e.
Junmai (70%) Ginjo (60%) and Dai Ginjo (50%) as well as sub
categories like the three big "Un's" – Unpasteurized (Nama),
Unfiltered (Nigori), and Undiluted (Genshu).
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The Vessel
A tasting can also shatter the old misconception that you must
drink out of little o'choko's (the small ceramic cups for hot
sake). Try a variety of glassware - wine glasses, shot glasses,
even that set of Pottery Barn sake cups. Try it for yourself. Get
some cedar masu (wooden squares) and taste how the flavor of
cedar can overwhelm a sake or bring out a new flavor. Try
plastic. And go really crazy, as I often do and try drinking sake
out of huge glass containers like glass vases for flowers. You
will notice all sorts of weird results. If you want to repeat
using the glasses make sure to have distilled water as a washer
between sakes. Our tap water will change the flavor of anything!
And remember to taste Nigori's last, as they tend to muck up the
glasses.
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Go Blind
Tastings can also be incredibly creative. Do a blind tasting
where the bottles are covered. Number each sake and then have a
chart on the wall with the numbers. Get some stickers at
Walgreens – the kind that come in a pack of three colored dots,
red, blue, and yellow – number the stickers one, two and three,
and have your guests place their three choices – 1st, 2nd , 3rd
corresponding with the sakes numbered on the wall chart. Please
tell people not to be influenced by other people's choices and
then reveal the sakes. You can also pick teams and pour the same
sake for two teammates and make them find their sake amongst the
other sakes. Line the bottles up in the middle of a table. Have
two glasses on each side of the bottle filled with the sake from
that bottle. Then pour sake into two other glasses for the
teammates and repeat for other couples until all the sakes are
represented by "seekers". The teammates line up on opposite sides
of the table and taste the sakes until they have identified what
is in their glasses. They then converse and write down their
mutual decision until all "seekers" have selected.
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Go Technical
Do your homework! Read up and create a sake tasting that speaks
to the nitty gritty of sake understanding. Think in terms of
educating your guests. Select sakes that speak to the subtleties
of the sake world - pick sakes with the exact same acidity
levels, SMV's, prefectures, yeasts, rice varietals, or methods of
making. Get precise. Get technical.
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Burnin' Down The House
Have a tasting based on temperatures of sake. Pick several sakes
and try them at several temperatures. Cold, room, lightly warmed,
and hot. You will be amazed how fluid this type of tasting
becomes, as the experimenting becomes half the fun.
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Fill Those Tummies
Do not forget to get some munchies to help people stay afloat.
Think in terms of salty and savory snacks, bulky foods, and items
that sop up the fuel at the end of the evening.
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Sparkling Sakes
Several years ago in Japan, I tasted a sparkling sake. At the time I
was saying to my dinner partner who happens to be an owner of a sake
brewery that I thought sparkling sakes were sort of like wine coolers
– a novelty to get people to drink sake. Well, I wasn't far off base,
as I will touch upon in a second. The first sip of Ichinokura's
"Suzune" was an eye-opening experience. I was completely taken aback
by the refreshingly light and flavorful sake. What impressed me most
was the fact that it was very "Champagne" like but in an honest to
goodness sake sense. It was so unique that I found myself trying as
many sparkling sakes as possible on that trip and subsequent visits. I
immediately approached my exporting contacts in Japan and urged them
to start sending sparkling sakes to the US, because I felt that they
would speak to a large portion of established and new sake drinkers.
Although "Suzune" has not made it to the US (too limited in
production), several sparkling sakes have hit our shores and more are
on the way. In a small way, I take pride in developing this unique
sake experience in the US. That said I cannot take credit for the
first Sparkling Sake to land in the US, but it is so expensive that
very few people have ever tried the "Formula Nippon" from Okunomatsu.
This 720ml gorgeous bottle in a wooden box sells for $115 and was
created to replace French Champagnes in the winner's circle at Formula
One racing events in Japan. The good people at Okunomatsu thought
"Why should we use a French product to celebrate races in Japan?" and
they produced a semi-sweet and ricey sparkling sake that is lightly
effervescent and very well balanced.
But on my urging more affordable Sparkling Sakes can be found in
restaurants around the US. True Sake currently carries 4 sparkling
sakes and will offer two more by year's end. Is this then the future
of sake in America? Hardly! Sparkling sakes are being produced in
Japan to court a new type of alcohol drinker to the sake table. They
are specifically being made to target women and younger drinkers, who
consider sake their father's drink. These sakes are all a little
sweeter than your average sake (even Nigori's), and they are lower in
alcohol content as well, with an average between 6-9% as opposed to
the typical 15-17% for regular sakes. They are all made in mysterious
and secret fashion, and most brewers will point out how their
competitors make fake sparkling sake by adding carbonation. Bottom
line is that they lightly pasteurize the sakes, which keeps the
fermentation process going and results in naturally occurring carbonic
dioxides (bubbles). It is fun to experiment with carbonic acids in
sake, and I am certain that every type of sake drinker can find a
sparkling sake that would speak to them in specific times and
occasions.
Currently True Sake carries the following:
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Harushika "Tokimeki" -- SMV: -80 Acidity 5.5 -- $14/300ml
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Poochi Poochi -- SMV: -20 Acidity: 1.5 -- $12/300ml
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Gekkeikan "Zipang" -- SMV: -14 -- $8/280ml
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Okunomatsu Formula Nippon -- SMV: -25 Acidity: 2.5 -- $115/720ml
By the end of the year I expect to add three more Sparkling Sakes from
Sudo Honke (makers of Sato No Homare – the oldest brewery in the world
founded in 1147), Gokyo (amazing Sparkling Sake with incredible
balance and flavor), and "Moon Rabbit" from Umenoyado (I pull a lot of
watermelon from this). I figure if the oldest active brewery in Japan
is making Sparkling Sake then it's time has come! (Note: These must be
shipped overnight for those outside of the Bay Area.)
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New Store Arrivals
True Sake has three new visitors to our shelves and they are all in
300ml bottles.
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Gassan – Shimane Prefecture – Junmai Ginjo – SMV: +2
This Ginjo is plump and soft with an array of semi-sweet flavors
that expand in the mouth. Fairly floral with hints of pineapple
in a perfectly balanced package. A good Ginjo to pair with oily
fish sushi and salty soups. $14/300ml
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Kikusui – Niigata Prefecture – Junmai – SMV: +3
Well it's about time that we add Kikusui's Junmai to complement
our best selling Ginjo in the store. Clean and light this Junmai
has peach and plum skin flavors wrapped in a crisp package that
would speak to fans of tannin wines. Crisp is as crisp does so
don't be afraid to pair this sake with any form of grilled fish
or fried chicken. $10/300ml
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Crazy Milk – Oita Prefecture – Nigori – SMV: -12
Ummmmm bad name. Really bad name, but and please don't repeat
this I like it a lot! So much so that it will replace two other
300ml Nigoris in the store. Oimatsu Shuzo makes this incredibly
smooth nigori that is filled with powder sugar flavors. It tastes
like "Adult Milk" and take note of a hidden layer of Pez
elements. I am no fan of Nigori sake, especially sweet Nigori's,
but this little runt has found a home. $10/300ml
You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com
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Sake SPOTLIGHT
I recently received an email from James G – a customer of the store
and newsletter reader – who offered this thought: "Although I do
enjoy reading through the anecdotes, and appreciate the good humor
with which the newsletter is presented, I would find more and more
detailed descriptions of the specific sakes offered much more useful
to me."
And your wish is my command. I have decided to add a section to the
Newsletter for those who would like to know more about specific sakes
from myself and other professionals in the sake world. The Sake
SPOTLIGHT section will select a sake or two for break-down and build-
up. And hopefully the result will be a better understanding of how the
selected sake is made, what elements to look for and what impresses
those who know. But, again I must state that at the end of the day you
the drinker are the champion of your own palate, which is vastly
different from every other palate out there. I will lead you to the
water, but it is you who must drink.
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Mukune "Root of Innocence"
Junmai Ginjo from Daimon Shuzo (founded in 1826) in Osaka
Prefecture. The owner is Yasutaka Daimon – a sixth generation
director of the brewery and an excellent person. The head brewer
was Kazuyuki Kita (There has been a major development in this
regard that I will cover in the next newsletter – fascinating
stuff but it is still not public information yet.)
Facts:
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Seimaibuai: 55% (45% of the rice has been removed) This is the
polishing/milling rate.
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Rice: Yamadanishiki (one of – if not – the best brewing rice in
the business)
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Yeast: Brewer's original. (They do not purchase this yeast from
the national yeast banks)
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Nihonshu-do: +2 (This is the Sake Meter Value –SMV- which
measures the residual sugars)
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Alcohol: 16%
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Acidity: 1.8
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Water: Natural spring water rich in minerals
I asked John Gauntner, author – sake professional – and the "Sake
Guy" his thoughts about Mukune and he provided the following:
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"Mukune: It has one of the best balances between sweet and
dry, light and heavy, and smooth and textured of any sake I
know. It kind of hovers in its own force field of flavor and
aroma. Yet is has great breadth; this may be one of its
defining characteristics. I once commented on this to Philip
Harper (assistant brewer at Daimon Shuzo), who smiled and
said, "Welcome to Kansai," indicating that it was indicative
of sake from that part of the country."
I myself find Mukune to be an enchantress of sorts; equal parts
magical and mythical. Herewith is my review in the store:
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Mukune "Root of Innocence" – Junmai Ginjo – Osaka Prefecture
– SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.8
Another in the group known as "the
amazing noses of sake", as ripe melon, raspberries, honey,
balsa wood and floral components dance together. Mukune is a
mysterious sake made for those looking to explore big flavors
and disappearing acidity acts. It is a complex sake that
drinks like a dream, with a very solid texture that veils ripe
fruit tones in a round dry package. This thick and rich sake
sings an acidity movement that says goodbye before hello as if
a phantom acidity structure is at work. And if you close your
eyes you may very well find a vein of strawberry and anisette
flavors deep in the depths of the chewy softness.
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WORD: Complex
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WINE: Full bodied reds/Dry Whites
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BEER: Huge Ales/Soft Stouts
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FOODS: Salty and savory fare, shrimp dumplings, sautéed
filet of sole with lemon, oily fried food.
What John and I and many others agree upon is that there is a
quality that this sake posses that is unique in the sake forest.
It stands alone. Philip stated that it is a reflection of the
Kansai style, but rarely have I tasted a sake that works as well
as Mukune. It is seamless in movement and has a higher than normal
acidity level that is there but all together not there as well. I
admire the "wideness" of flavor, and have tried this sake out of
many different vessels to see which one distributes the phantom
acidity best. My conclusion is that a round-bottomed tall water
glass with straight sides makes the most of the fluid. A very
classy sake from an equally classy brewery. Worth an exploration
at $38/720ml or $18/300ml.
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Special Events
September 15th – The Joy of Sake massive tasting at the Nikko Hotel.
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This is a big and fun event. True Sake is a sponsor and you have
already received an email flyer about this. If you decide to attend,
please buy your tickets from True Sake (415.355.9555) and don't forget
to visit our booth at the tasting. We will be providing a "True Sake
Fast 50" card that will help you navigate your way through the over
200 hundred sakes.
Joy of Sake
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September 19th - Sake Dinner at Viognierre Restaurant
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I will be speaking at this tremendous dinner and local sushi celebrity
"Sushi Sam" will be adding his special touches to Chef Scott
Giambastiani's stellar efforts. Please come sway this brilliant "wine"
restaurant to the wonders of sake, and let's support their Director of
Wine and Spirits Michael Ireland in his continued fascination with
sake. Please give Michael a call at (650.685.3726) Tickets will go
fast! So act now.
Information available here.
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October 1st – SAKE DAY!
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Did you know that Oct. 1st is indeed The Day of Sake in Japan? Well
come and celebrate this joyous occasion with your friends from True
Sake for this annual celebration sake pairing. True Sake has joined
forces with Mari Takahashi of Mari's Catering to offer you this
splendid evening:
Event: Sake and Contemporary Japanese Kaiseki Food Pairing
Theme: Harvest of Earth
Place: Fort Mason, Building C, Rm. 370
Price: $75
Time: 7:00pm - 9:00pm
Detail: We will be celebrating Sake Day (Nihon-shu no Hi) by
serving a unique and vivacious, 6-course, contemporary Japanese
Kaiseki paired with fabulous Sake for each dish. Beau Timken from
True Sake will explain each Sake and Mari Takahashi from Mari's
Catering will introduce each plate. Please Phone True Sake
415.355.9555 or Mari 415-341-5468
Mari's Catering is owned and operated by Mari Takahashi, a native of
Japan. Our team includes Japanese and American chefs and
nutritionists who are passionate about creating interesting mixtures
of traditional Japanese and California creations using fresh organic
ingredients.
Event Information
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"Ask Beau"
A Newsletter reader named Kirsten G. from Washington recently asked,
"I have been micro-waving my sake to heat it up, but this can't be the
best method or is it?"
If you were using metal cups I would say a big
no! Honestly, the microwave is used in restaurants across this nation
and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. But I recommend using
a pan of boiling water. A gentle heating rather than a nuking allows
the alcohol to change slower, which I believe gives off a better
flavor. In this regard, I say grab a "Tokkuri" (a slender tapered
vessel that has a chimney top – you have seen these at any Japanese
restaurant usually in white ceramic form) and fill it with a good
heating sake.
What is a good heating sake? Well there are several and
they do taste much better than table sakes in a warmed state.
(Fukunishiki, Nishinoseki, Kamoizumi, Masumi are four names of
excellent heating sakes to choose from at True Sake) Then fill a pan
half way and bring the water to a boil. Put the Tokkuri in the pan and
turn the flame or heat off. Do not touch the sides of the Tokkuri to
get the temperature of the sake on the inside, rather lift it out of
the water by the top and touch the indented bottom. This concave area
creates an air pocket that is not influenced by the boiling water;
rather it gives you the temperature of the contents on the inside.
Americans have the propensity to overheat sake, but as long as you
like it flaming that's all that really matters. I feel a temperature
of about 120F is perfect for hot sake "Atsu-kan" and around 90F for
"Nuru-kan" which is lightly warmed sake.
Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)com">
info@truesake.com.)
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Secret Word
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. For
those that are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake
of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake
with a story, and this month's story is Hokkaido. We have selected a
very popular Junmai Ginjo called Taisetsu that is a great example of a
sake that has a "hey I can taste their brewing water" flavor. Please
remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your
buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always
use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and
lastly for those who have their sakes shipped I can only include the
SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase – meaning you must buy three
other sakes. Taisetsu usually sells for $20 but for you glorious sake-
jockeys your cost is $10. And the SECRET WORD is the name of our new
arrival Nigori that I found surprisingly tasty.
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Thank you for reading!
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