Welcome to the seventeenth installment of America's sake-centric newsletter. 2005 was the year of the Rooster, which in ancient times was the year of sake as they shared the same kanji. But I have a feeling that 2006 will be the greatest year of sake and sake appreciation outside of Japan ever! We in the West are poised to make some serious noise when it comes to consuming enough sake that the breweries stand up and take notice. We have become a viable market and we shall see the rewards of better and more sake offerings in the year to come.

In this issue:

• The New Year's Sake Resolution - Sake Is Not A Gimmick
• The Open Bottle Syndrome - Top 10 Reasons Not To Panic!
• Recapping the "Winter Sake Tasting" - Warm Sake and A Cool Place!
• True Sake In The News
• New Store Arrivals - "14th Generation"
• Sake Spotlight - Kazu Yamazaki Reviews "Midnight Moon"
• Special Events - "Free Sake"
• "Ask Beau"
• The SECRET Word

Okay, it's a new year and my slate is clean. But! I do have one small admission to relate to you that will become the focal point of my Sake New Year's resolution. In years' past I have been sucked into the comfort of playing upon the "unique" and "novel" cards of sake when describing them to others. In fact it was one of my biggest selling pitches. "You must try sake today if your benchmark is that old hot crap served at bad sushi restaurants." "Sake is not what you remember." "Man, you must give sake a try it's really hip and now!" Well, I never really said that last line, but you get the picture. I have been selling sake for three years now and it has finally dawned on me that those - the royal we - in the "business" have been pushing sake as a gimmick.

Man that sounds harsh when I re-read that, but it is true to a degree. We have been on such a crusade to get people's attention about this incredible libation that we have taken the easy path of just playing up to the "newness" and "freshness" that sake represents. Of course I have always promoted with depth and zeal the real virtues of sake from being an amazing food partner to being a really clean alternative to a saturated Wine, Beer and spirits world. But time and time again, those who do not know much about sake feel more comfortable in the fact that it is "new" and "hip." Arrrghh, there I said it! And trust you me when I say that I speak to people. Out of every 10 customers who come into True Sake roughly 6 of these folks say, "I know nothing about sake," to which I reply, "Of course you do." Point being consumers still need more information about the "water of the gods."

One great selling point about sake is the fact that it is so darn good. Taken alone this is a virtue, but when stacked up with the fact that most people's impressions of sake are pretty low to "disgusting" then selling sake is like shooting candy in a fish bowl or taking fish from a baby, or something like that. It's easy because it's good, and we as importers, distributors, restaurateurs, sommeliers, and retail storeowners fall back on the easy route of just saying that sake is "new, fresh and good." Easy right? I am simplifying to a degree, but the message is clear as importing numbers and sales are way up for a third year in a row. So it cannot be just the pitch that is accounting for record numbers. It's the booze itself. Sake is not a gimmick, it is not a novelty, and it is not a party trick.

My New Year's Sake Resolution took hold on Christmas Eve at our dinner table, where two massive lobsters took an ill-fated turn onto our menu. I paired these lobsters and a generous amount of warmed butter cut with canola oil (Wife's idea) with a Junmai Ginjo from Kyoto, and it was sublime. So much so, that my father, who has been around a bottle or two of some really great Wines stated that he had never tasted a white that went as well with the lobster as the sake did. High praise indeed, and it confirmed my belief that sake is not just a great tasting beverage. It has a purpose far greater than just drinking well. It works! It fills the nooks and crannies of dishes that are often hard to pair with. It has scope and daring, and I have not found a cuisine that doesn't take kindly to sake. It is not a gimmick.

You've heard me time and time speak to the point that sake has 1/3 the acidity of Wine. How it has far lower histamine levels. And of course how it is pasteurized and as such has no sulfites, which all account for the fact that it is a cleaner burning fuel. Couple this with the notion that it has a depth and scope comparable to Wine, is far more affordable than the "challenging Wines," and is darn good then I must stand up and shout that sake is not a gimmick. As such, I will tweak my pitch this year to reflect this simple fact. And that is my resolution!

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A question often asked about sake is what happens when the bottle is opened. The simple answer is that it gets consumed. And that is the best and most simple way to preserve the true flavor. Oh I see. You mean what if you do not finish the bottle? Well considering that sake bottles are only 720ml compared to Wine bottles, which are 750ml this shouldn't be a problem. Oh I see. You mean what if you do not finish the entire bottle what happens to the remains? Well you could call me over! Herewith is a Top 10 List on what to expect when the party is over and the sake remains:

	10)	A "typical" sushi restaurant of let's say medium to lower grade will leave those large bottles of sake out on a counter for up to three weeks and still serve them to you!
	09)	Sake is pasteurized and this reduces the degradation/oxidation effect by over 50 times that of sulfites (found in most Wines) when air has entered the bottle.
	08)	One brewer in Japan puts carbon dioxide in their bottles to ensure that air never enters the bottle when bottling occurs. I don't know if this affects its open-air stamina but it is still pretty cool.
	07)	The fridge is an open bottle of sake's best friend.
	06)	Don't bother with the "Can-Oh-Airs" that your Wine buddies recommend for preserving your open bottle of sake. They don't work!
	05)	Sake bottles don't use cork, and corks as porous as they are allow all sorts of air into the bottle in a refrigerator.
	04)	Sake brewers once used Sulfites back in the "old days." This is done no longer and as such sake degradation can be spoken about in days rather than Wine's hours! (Those sake purists that say that it degrades faster than Wine be damned!
	03)	Sometimes sake that has been opened and is in the fridge for a few days mellows out and actually drinks far better, as the acidity levels alter.
	02)	Sake that has been opened actually gets smoother over time, sometimes at the risk of losing a little flavor, but never does it go grotti like Wine does. If it does taste a little below your standards then try warming it! (Let's see you do that with Wine)
	01)	Said in my best Tony Sopprano accent: "Just drink the freakin bottle of sake, and if you don't...... don't wooooory about it..... toss it in the fridge and foughet about it.....drink it tomorrow, tree four days, next week.... Don't wooory about it"

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On December 7th True Sake invaded Medicine in downtown SF to conduct a tasting that paired different temperature sakes to the famous "monk food" offerings from their new winter menu. Participants were the first to try this menu, and of course they were treated to some amazing sakes at various temperatures. Below please find the pairings for the evening, and please note that the "tastees" also were treated to a blind tasting that was tricky, very tricky, as we poured three sakes from the same brewery. They tasted the Junmai, Junmai Ginjo, and Junmai Dai Ginjo from Urakasumi brewery from Miyagi Prefecture.

WINTER: The usually coldest season of the year, occurring between autumn and spring, extending in the Northern Hemisphere from the winter solstice to the vernal equinox, and popularly considered to be constituted by December, January, and February. 2. A year as expressed through the recurrence of the winter season. 3. A period of time characterized by coldness, misery, barrenness, or death.

Welcome Sake:

Ginban Banshu" Silver Plate"
Toyama Prefecture 1910.
Junmai Dai Ginjo.
SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.2

This sake has a beautiful nose of chrysanthemums, marigolds, mushrooms, and unripe strawberries. "Banshu" starts with a semi- thick viscosity filled with strawberry and banana flavors wrapped in shimmering and soft complexion. It is a very easy drinking sake that is a crowd/party pleaser as grape tones and a soft acidity play make it a very Wine- like sake. The dry finish is superb and the light and shimmering journey through the mouth makes for a velvety smoothness/drinkability. This sake tastes like quality! Very good chilled and at room temperature.

Word: Smooth
Wine: Soft Reds/Dry Chardonnays
Beers: Creamy Ales
Foods: Steamed fish, poached chicken, shrimp, and breads.

1st Course:

Kamoizumi "Shusen" Three Dots"
Hiroshima Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: +1.5 Acidity: 1.6

This Junmai is on the opposite spectrum to a fruity floral sake. It has a full nose of shiitake mushrooms, woodsy earthtones and damp leaves. This is a very deep Ginjo that starts soft and ends with a deep exhale of mushrooms and smoked wood. There is a very soft creaminess that is thick and chewy, almost like a moderately sweet sherry, and subtle anisette flavoring turns into a honey- like aftertaste when the sake warms up. This sake is best served room temperature or slightly warmed.

Word: Shiitake Mushroom
Wine: Deep Rich Reds
Beers: Ambers/Stouts
Pairing: Sesame Tofu and the sake will be served "Nuru-kan" or lukewarm.

2nd Course:

Rokkasen "Six Songs Of The Immortal"
Yamagata Prefecture.
Junmai.
SMV: -12 Acidity: 1.7

In your pursuit of the complete sake experience, one must venture into the so-called sweet zone to discover the splendors and quirks of a Junmai that has a -12 SMV value. This Junmai has a ripe cherry and mushroom nose with hints of earth tones. It is a "mover" Junmai as the sweet flavor rush on the tip of the tongue moves from a robust front to a nice syrupy slide down the back of the throat. The most prominent flavor enveloped in the viscosity is ripe cherries in a syrup sauce, which meets a nice acidity play for a snappy finish. It is freakishly sublime, like a bad hair day that actually looks cool, and it is not Kool-Aide sweet. Recommended by brewer as an after dinner drink.

Word: Cherries
Wine: Riesling
Beers: Honey Ales
Pairing: Warm spinach salad with persimmon, tasted cashews & ponzu dressing, and the sake will be served "Hana-hiye" or slightly chilled at about 50F.

3rd Course:

Nishinoseki "Champion of the West"
Oita Prefecture.
Junmai.
SMV: -3 Acidity: 1.5
With a nose of sweet flowers hidden amongst mushroom, nuts and cream, the first sip of this Junmai is like tasting a sip of buttery popcorn. Don't let the low SMV fool you as this guy drinks more savory than sweet. Probably one of the softest sakes in the biz, despite its deep and expansive flavors. This shimmering Junmai is great chilled and even better warmed up.

Word: Creamy
Wine: Soft reds/creamy whites
Beers: Blond Ales
Pairing: Roasted dumpling squash with shimeji, avocado, eggplant and white miso, and the sake will be served "Atsu-kan" or hot.

Tsukasabotan Senchu Hassaku "Great Plan"
Kochi prefecture.
Junmai.
SMV: +8 Acidity: 1.4

"Great Plan" is one of those sakes that break the mold. It's quite a dry brew, but doesn't have the typical sharp, staccato profile of a dry sake. Rather it drinks clean and round and provides a great example of a shimmering sake. The nose is collection of aromas from marshmallow and cream to apple and plums. Hints of cherries and caramel don't arrive until the dead-stop finish.

Word: Round
Wine: Soft reds/dry whites
Beers: Dry Ales
Pairing: Moromi miso with vege / Nine-grain rice, and the sake will be served "Jo-on" or room temperature.

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By all means pick up a copy of Bon Appetit Magazine the January Issue called "Best of the Year" and read a piece on sake. Not only was I consulted for the article, but we also supplied the glassware for the shoot. Also if you are in the sky, Southwest Airlines has a little ditty on sake in their current issue of Spirit Magazine (I have yet to see the piece and would love a copy if somebody is flying). Lastly, OUTSIDE magazine will have a small cut on sake in their January or February issue, and we get some play there as well.

On a personal note, I must say that it gets a bit tricky working with people who write for magazines, newspapers etc. In the first case they come to me not knowing that much, and I make certain that they eventually do - however long that takes. I don't really care about my name being used as long as they get the sake aspect correct. In most cases they do not. I can spend two hours on the phone with somebody, and then have three follow-up calls only to read later a very diluted and "snappy" piece that misses the main points of sake.

Call me a snob, media whore or whatever, but please know that I try extremely hard to make certain that sake gets honored before my store or myself. As the West is only now coming into a better grasp of the beast called sake, it is important to keep eliminating the misconceptions and myths. But, at times quick little snapshots about sake do not do justice to the overall picture. And can actually be more confusing than enlightening.

Don't get me wrong, I like the attention, but when I see my own Words and thoughts used by somebody else without credit, or worse yet misquoting me to make themselves look a little more like an authority it makes cringe. Point being, we are going to see more and more articles on sake coming out in the next few years so consider yourself way ahead of the curve, and don't take written print as gospel. (Especially this on-line rag!) Sake is what you make of it!

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This is not a new sake, but it is so in demand and rare that whenever we get some in the store it's like having a new store arrival. The sake is one of the best ever made! And it comes from a legendary brewery. When I am in Japan I make a point of drinking lots of it and taking a bottle home. Juyondai is an aged sake (Koshu) that has been set aside for three years to "develop." It is amazing and True Sake gets roughly 10-12 bottles per year if we are lucky! This year we were not that lucky, but we did manage to get 4 bottles at an obscene price, and as such we offer them to you at an even more obscene price.

Juyondai "14th Generation" Yamagata Prefecture. Junmai. Aged 3 Years SMV: +5 Acidity 1.9 The nose on this Koshu is full of ripe dried fruits, caramel, subtle vanilla, and steamed rice. Welcome to the world of a wide sake. The fluid doesn't enter the mouth, it oozes! The pale yellow colored Junmai clings to all the recesses of your mouth and a soft ricey-ness is enveloped by a creamy richness. The wide/fat flavor is heavy in the mouth and a lingering malty finish gives this Koshu a dream-like status. Word: Wide Wine: Deep reds/chewy whites Beers: Big Ales Foods: Monk fish liver, creamy dishes, softly spiced dishes, cheeses.

We paired Juyondai with Kani-miso (steamed crab guts) at the famous Crab-Night Sake Tasting last month, and it was phenomenal! Truly one of the best flavor pairings that I have ever orchestrated! It is such a dynamic and fun sake to drink by itself or pair with your most favorite deep and rich Foods. $200/1.8L bottle. (Only four in stock!)

You can review many of our sakes on our web site: www.truesake.com

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"Sake Spotlight" is a unique section within the Newsletter that takes a closer look at specific sakes that may be purchased at True Sake. I approach different professionals within the industry to give their perspectives and insights to the how, what and why's for very specials sakes. These insiders are importers, brewers, authors, sake sommeliers, or just enthusiasts who will take your knowledge base a little further. What I like about this segment is that often my review is quite different than that of the guest professional's adding to the point that there is no right or wrong when discussing your opinion about sake.

This month I am extremely pleased to welcome my long time friend and the top importer of sake into the US, Mr. Kazu Yamazaki, Vice- President of the Japan Prestige Sake Association. There is a very good chance that at some point in time you have tasted one of Kazu's imported sakes such as Otokoyama, Wakatake, Umenishiki, Urakasumi, Suishin, etc. Kazu was one of my first contacts in the sake world, and I greatly enjoy his vast knowledge and keen perceptions about sake. He has done a great deal for the rise in popularity of sake in the US and is a pioneer in his vision to help the West learn more about sake rather than just pushing the product on those who have no idea. In a Word Kazu is good for sake!

For this "Sake Spotlight" Kazu selected one of his own imported sakes called Meibo "Yowanotsuki" which translates to Beautiful Eyes or its street name of "Midnight Moon."

Meibo "Yowanotsuki" Junmai Ginjo Rice: Yamadanishiki milled to 50% (which is actually a Dai Ginjo polishing level) SMV: + 2 (Sake Meter Value - the residual sugars left in the sake) Acidity: 1.5 Amino Acid: 1.2 Alcohol: 15.8% Water: Soft Yeast: Secret! ("The brewer doesn't disclose what kind of yeast that they use. My guess is that they use their own home grown yeast") "What I like about this sake is that when a brewery mills Yamadanishiki down to 50% they usually try to produce a wide range of fruity flavors, but Meibo doesn't follow this approach. The aromas on Midnight Moon are kind of moderate, but there is a fair amount of fruits, like melon and green apple combined with tree leaves and grains. The taste of this sake is really great because of its balance; fruity flavors are more like a side dish with the more important ricey flavor taking center plate. This rice flavor does not overpower the other elements, as a good amount of acidity is present and working to balance out the flavor profile. However this elevated acidity does not come off as too tart, rather it is mild enough to harmonize with the amino acids which results in a more mild viscous texture." "Meibo is a very food friendly sake that works well with almost and Japanese cuisine. I recommend elements from mountains and rivers (take your best guess). The brewery was founded in 1784 in Seto city in Aichi Prefecture where the Tokkuri (tall cylindrical sake pourer) was invented."

Thank you Kazu, and I agree on several points. Firstly for me Meibo is the classic "drinks far dryer than it's SMV" sake. I always recommend it to those who say that they like their dry white Wines with fruit forward and a dry quick finish. It is indeed a well-balanced sake that for me explores the dried fruit tones more than the juicier fruits. And I say this even though one of the major flavors that pops for me is cantaloupe melon. The bottom line is, and Kazu touched upon this, the fact that the yeast used in this sake's production really shows how yeast can influence flavor as much as aroma. There is an old saying in the sake world that "rice dictates the flavor and yeast dictates the aroma," but I think the opposite is at work here. And this has to do with their "secret yeast" I would assume.

Herewith is my store review for the Midnight Moon:

Meibo Yowanotsuki "Midnight Moon" Aichi Prefecture 1784. Junmai Ginjo SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.5 This is a very consistent flavorful, light and smooth type of Ginjo. The nose is full of vanilla and melon, and the first sip shines of a well-built Ginjo. The sake has a smooth start and an equally smooth finish with a middle made up of melon and citrus undertones. It is very well balanced and literally slides on the tongue. The viscosity spells a fruity type flavor but the taste is refreshingly dry. There are hints of steamed rice and grains hidden amongst the layers of dried fruits. In sailing terms this Ginjo is even-keeled and the proof is in the easy and refreshing nature of each sip. Very user friendly for Ginjo lovers. Word: Cantaloupe Wine: Dry Whites/Crisp Reds Beers: Hefferwiesens/Honey Ales Foods: Omelets, fish mousses, oysters with vinaigrette, fried scampi.

If you recall we paired Meibo at the now "extremely" famous Kani (crab) Night sake pairing event last month with crab chowanmushi, which is similar to a heated egg custard that was served in the crab shell itself. It was awesome! This sake goes really well with eggs, no kidding!

Kazu has been very kind in the past to help me offer the Secret Word sakes found at the end of this Newsletter by giving True Sake a slight discount so that we can pass on this unique service to you. And lucky you, as he has offered to do the same for Meibo. This represents the first time that the month's Sake Spotlight is the same sake for the Secret Word. Thanks again Kazu!

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Free Sake - Another bonus for our dear Newsletter Readers!

Fred Yick (a True Sake enthusiast) is co-owner of YUZU the new Asian inspired sushi/raw bar restaurant on Fillmore Street in the Marina. Fred and his brother John have a wonderful new space with quite an exciting sake menu. (I helped brothers Yick with this menu) And they have graciously offered a complimentary flight of sakes known as their Junmai Sampler (one per couple) for mentioning True Sake at the beginning of your meal. Please visit one of your fellow sake friends at YUZU. Offer Good Until Jan. 31st Yuzu Information: Contemporary Japanese cuisine/ Raw Bar (sushi and oysters) and Sake Bar Address: 3347 Fillmore Street (between Fillmore and Lombard Streets) Tel: 415-775-1873 Dinner Only: Tues - Thurs 6-10pm; Fri and Sat 6 - 11pm; Sun 5:30 - 9pm; closed Mondays; Closed Dec 31 - Jan 9. Reopen Tues 1/10. Reservations: Reservations are welcome. Reservations on Fri and Sat for parties of 6 or more; otherwise, we will accept a limited number of reservations. Private party bookings are welcome. Parking: Parking structure on Lombard Street between Fillmore and Webster Streets (above the post office and half a block from the restaurant)

January - The "Funky" Sake Tasting -- HAS BEEN MOVED TO FEBRUARY

We have yet to pick a date or a venue, but when we do get ready to get "FUNKY" as this tasting will explore the weird and exotic side of the sake world. From the driest to the sweetest and every weird thing in- between, this tasting will stretch the boundaries of sake and will make for great exploration. This event is not for beginners, and it will be just a tasting and not a food pairing. Think low-key and exotic! Price is $35 per person and the capacity is 40. Please phone True Sake to order tickets. 415.355.9555 (Every True Sake event has sold out so be wise.... reserve today!)

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Firstly, thank you for all of the "Ask Beau" questions last year. I must have received over 500 questions when all was said and done. And only 12 made it to the "bigs." I am thinking about offering a bottle of sake to those who craft worthy questions for others, and this will be decided next issue. So by all means keep the amazing questions coming, and there is a really good chance that 11 of you will be drinkin' for free in 06!

This month's question comes from a sake fan in Portland, Maine by the name of Candice J who asked:

"Why do I get so buzzed when I drink sake?"

Candice, my opinion is that your body is not yet conditioned to the feeling that sake gives. In other Words, it is still a new "buzz" and consequently your body processes it differently than Wine, Beer, or spirits. Of course sake has a few higher percentage points than Beer and Wine, but again I think that it is more metaphysical in the sense that different reactions come from different lubricants. I drink so much sake that the rare glass of Wine knocks me for a loop. Lastly, a buzz is what you make of it, if you are in a good space and the evening is magical then of course whatever you drink will make you feel giddy, and this is quite often the case when one saddles up to a sushi bar! Enjoy the buzz responsibly or beware of the fuzz!

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET Word. For those that are new the SECRET Word is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is "Midnight Moon." Thanks to Kazu Yamazaki, who reviewed this sake in this issues "Sake Spotlight," for giving us a discount so that we can offer it to you for less. We selected Meibo "Yowanotsuki" from Aichi Prefecture to show how sometimes the SMV means nothing when drinking a sake, as Midnight Moon is the prototypical "drinks far dryer than it's SMV" sake.

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET Word, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped I can only include the SECRET Word sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy three other sakes. Meibo usually sells for $20/500ml but for you glorious sake-jockeys your cost is $10. And the SECRET Word is Kazu.

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Thank you for reading!

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.