Welcome to the April Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. This Newsletter will be the last under the name of True Sake. Two weeks ago, I consummated a deal with the Starbucks Corporation to join forces with the world leader in coffee. Starbucks has been looking to enter the retail alcohol space for years and saw True Sake as the perfect partner. Within the next 18-24 months Starbucks will incorporate True Sake "vendor stands" within 3,200 Starbucks nation- wide. They have also purchased the rights to TasteMatch ^TM and will now use this flavor matching system for their line of coffees. I am extremely pleased about this partnership as sake and coffee have many similar traits, and I am even more pleased to say April Fool's!

In this issue:

• It's All In The Bottle -- The Shape of Sake
• Space Sake -- Tosa Space Yeast ( The New Frontier For Sake)
• True Sake In The News -- Sebo; ANA in-flight Video Mag; April W&S
• Sake Spotlight -- Daren Epstein Goes Bonkers For Dewazakura!
• New Store Arrivals -- Namas, Urakasumi DG
• Special Events -- Night of the Nigori -- Feedback Tasting
• Summary of the "Sake 101" Tasting
• "Ask Beau" -- Open Bottles of Sake
• The SECRET WORD

When I was in Japan 4 years ago I was speaking to an owner of a brewery about his bottles. We had a discussion about the color of bottles brown or dark green -- to keep sake from getting exposure to UV light. We also spoke about frosted versus non-frosted bottles -- also to diffract UV light. But what got my attention was when the topic of bottles turned to the shape of the bottle itself. Now we all know what a bottle looks like, at least our perception of a bottle. We know that they are fatter on the bottom and thin on top, presumable for sense of balance as much as for reducing the surface area for oxidation. We know that the tapered top is far more effective for pouring, and requires less material for a cap. But what else?

Sake made its first appearance in glass bottle form in 1878, but it wasn't until 1909 when Gekkeikan, from Fushimi, Kyoto, massed produced and sold sake using their proprietary bottles. Thus launching the sake on the go spirit. No longer did consumers need large ceramic jugs with corks, instead they could transport their sake in sleek bottles. Fast forward to today and see how some breweries import hand-blown bottles from Italy, whilst others use bottles more fit for Grappa. Function versus style right? Well in most cases at least. The bottles sometimes sell the sake, so appearances do have their place. But what else? There's got to be more right?

Let's go back to my conversation in Kobe 4 years ago. After our tour of the brewery was over we ventured into the kura's small little gift room to purchase some product. I picked out several items, and after paying the employee the owner of the brewery came and gave me a bottle of something special. It just looked special. The bottle was hand blown, brown with raised emblems and surfaces. But what caught my eye was the shape of the neck. And when I pointed to the long neck, the owner said that bottle poured with a beautiful sound, and it made him think of his wife. "Cool," I thought!

If you have ever been to one of my tastings you would know that I always try to get people to use all of their senses with sake. Eyes for color, taste etc. But most people forget to listen. Listening to sake is sublime. Firstly the sound of pouring -- other than making my mouth water like a bowl-parked hound -- is the welcoming notes of introduction. It is a way to hear sake greet you, and will set the mood for tasting. Secondly, you can tell the viscosity of a sake by the pour. Don't believe me? Ask my wife. She will pour two different sakes and I will tell which is which with my eyes closed. But back to the bottle. The pouring sound can create an elegance, like listening to a loved one. Or it can create a desire like the makers of Shutendouji's "Vulnerable Virgin," who use the long neck for sound and phallic appeal.

Recently I was speaking to Marcus Pakiser, who is the US sales manager for Momokawa sake out of Japan, about their sakes. During a small tasting of their product line I was really drawn to their Daiginjo for two reasons. One it's extremely tasty, and two it has a round bottle with a long neck. I asked Marcus to shine some light on why the shape was used, and after getting in touch with his "peeps" he sent me the following information about the choice of the bottle and its history. Rather than paraphrase I will just re-print his reply:

"Beau your insight in our Daiginjo bottle was awesome! I have been using this information in my presentation of the Daiginjo - nice call! Kokichi Murai, the 3rd generation leader of Momokawa (my boss Kyota is the 5th - currently VP and his father Tohru Murai is the 4th generation -- current president) claimed he was the first person to market a Daiginjo to the general public. Until that time Daignijo was made only for competition, but Kokichi thought it was too good not to be shared with everyone. He believed Daiginjo or any sake for that matter must be enjoyed by 5 senses...(sounds like someone else I know). Daiginjo has a distinguished aroma and taste. Visually, he wanted the customer to feel an elegance and beauty from a unique bottle. He also listens to the sound of sake as it is poured from the bottle. This bottle provides an elegant sound as the Daiginjo is poured. So this bottle goes a long way to utilizing all 5 senses. The touch and feel of the bottle to your favorite sake vessel is all part of this special sake experience. Therefore this Momokawa Daiginjo will please all 5 senses and possibly a 6th sense for elegant expectations. Kokichi wanted our customers to truly enjoy Daiginjo - using the best of everything to create this Sake Experience. He put forth his passion for Sake in all aspects of this Daiginjo that still exists today. As I write this, my mouth is watering......."

Mine too Marcus and thank you for providing us with that info. And yes it is all about the senses. So by all means on your next visit to True Sake check out our bottles with a new eye towards utilizing all of those senses. The pouring is not boring!

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Okay, okay, okay! This by far is the best story to come out of the sake world in the past 50 years and it is not an April Fools Day joke despite it's "launch" date of April 1st! I will reprint the whole story by Hideaki Ishiyama on "Tosa Space Yeast":

KOCHI--If you had a multibillion-dollar space program, what would you use it for? Blasting yeast into space to make sake, you say? It so happens you're not alone. An association of Japanese firms based in Kochi Prefecture has started brewing sake from yeast they persuaded the Russians to send into space for 10 days in October on board the spacecraft Soyuz. The result? Well, nobody knows yet--the sake goes on sale April 1, though tastings will start as early as mid-January. "Terrestrial magnetism may have had an effect on the yeast while it was in orbit," said Sho Arimitsu, 48-year-old president of the Aki city- based Arimitsu Shuzojo Co., the first company in the association to begin making the new space sake. "I am excited about what it will taste like." The Kochi-ken Shuzo Kumiai (Sake brewers' association of Kochi Prefecture) consists of 19 companies. They hope their flamboyant project will help increase sake consumption, which has been dropping for the past 30 years. The project started when Saburo Hiwasaki, 54, president of a cement company in Kochi, made a unique proposal to Akihiko Takemura, 43, of sake brewer Tsukasa Botan Shuzo Co. in Sakawa. The proposal? Launch something--either yeast or lactic acid bacteria--into space. Takemura was intrigued. Together, they set up the Tenkuro No Kai, which literally means "group of braggarts," with about a dozen others. The group decided that the best plan would be to focus their efforts on yeast alone, in order to represent Kochi Prefecture, well-known across the country for its sake. Kochi Prefecture ranked third in per-capita liquor consumption, after Tokyo and Osaka, a fiscal 2003 survey by the National Tax Agency showed. But because of the boom in shochu and low-malt beer sales, the national consumption of sake has been low in recent decades. In 1975, the prefecture's shipment of sake was 16,000 kiloliters. In 2004, that figure had been cut in half, to only 8,000 kl. Sensing crisis, the group and the brewers' association put together the Tosa Uchushu Iinkai (Tosa space sake committee) in April 2005. Tosa is the old name for Kochi. Of the space sake committee's 12-million-yen budget, about 7 million yen was covered by prefectural subsidies and the Kochi-ken Shuzo Kumiai itself, with the remaining 5 million yen shouldered by the participating firms. Negotiating with Russia was not easy. Committee chairman Sadayuki Matsuo, 52, said the Russians first tried to decrease the amount of yeast they would take on board. Then, in the days preceding the launch, they replaced the Japanese-made yeast containers with Russian- made ones. Nevertheless, on Oct. 1, 2005, the Soyuz was launched from the Baikonur Cosmodrome in Kazakhstan. On board were eight kinds of dry yeast and four kinds of wet yeast, each test tube containing 2 grams of yeast. All 12 varieties returned safely to Earth on Oct. 11, and were brought to Kochi on Oct. 14. The effects of space travel on yeast, and the subsequent sake fermentation process, are unknown. Rather, "the association would like consumers to feel the romance of space travel by drinking it," it said. (By HIDEAKI ISHIYAMA The Asahi Shimbun IHT/Asahi: January 10,2006)

Now the good news is that I am a friend of the owner of Tsukasabotan brewery, and the bad news is that I had no idea that this was going on or I would have been on this long ago! But back to the good news, as we have a relationship with this Kura -- True Sake sells three of their sakes already - we have a great shot at getting these space sakes to the store. I will keep you posted, and until then keep your feat on the ground and keep reaching for the stars.

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After almost two years in the making -- (yes the price of trying to open a restaurant in SF) -- Hayes Valley welcomes Sebo a "premium cut" sushi inspired restaurant. Owners Michael Black and Daniel Dunham have created a space that should speak to all of those people who want "great fish and great sake." This marriage of superb cut fish and tremendous sake is lacking in the Bay Area (unless you know the owners of restaurants and get their special attention), and as such Sebo represents your new favorite destination for two reasons. Firstly it is truly a "must go" experience and secondly it is right across the street from True Sake. You can kill two birds with one stone. This proximity also benefits the customers of Sebo greatly as Danny and Michael engaged me to do their sake menu.

The sake menu at Sebo is awesome! Why? Because it is compact and explosively professional. Using their likes and more likes we crafted a collection of sakes that work on three levels. First they go hand- in-hand with their cuisine. These guys have added a line that I uttered to them in the concept days that you shouldn't drown your fish with soy sauce. In this regard they take such sincere and incredible pride in their fish selections that it was only logical that their sake would dance perfectly with the flavors that they want you to explore. Secondly, the sakes that we have selected are "below the radar" in most cases. These are names that you may not have heard yet -- Gokyo, Aramasa, Dassai etc.

And lastly, as my store is across the street I have added a special sake that we call the "True Sake -- True Selection," which takes the form of sakes that NOBODY else can get. For example their first True Selection sake was a Nama-sake called Shutendouji "Oh Oni" "Big Devil." Only 10 cases of this sake were imported into the US this year. Two cases went to True Sake, one case went to Sebo, and the other 7 cases went to a private buyer in NYC. That is the essence of Sebo's "True Selections". And that is yet another reason why you should make a point of taking Sebo out for a test spin. They do not take reservations and they are still relatively new, so I would make a point of going sooner rather than later. Because once the word gets out, this will be a hard table to get. I highly recommend that you try the "Ankimo -- monk fish liver." And by all means tell Michael and Danny that you are True Sake Newsletter readers! They would appreciate that.

• Sebo -- 517 Hayes Street @ Octavia. Tuesday-Saturday 415.864.2122

If you fly on All Nippon Airways (ANA) in the next couple of months do not be afraid if you see my ugly mug up on the screen. Two months ago a production crew came into True Sake and filmed the store to show how crazy westerners are about sake. It is one of those typical in-flight video magazines pieces, but it recently got some thumbs up approvals from some of my sake gurus in Japan. So I didn't make a complete ass of myself. That -- I will save for a US in-flight magazine!

Lastly there is a nice blurb in the April Issue of Wine and Spirits on my new book ( Sake - A Modern Guide (Chronicle Books)), with a cool photo of the book resting on another book and open to a great page with a lot of bottles. Those guys at Wine and Spirits get sake, and I am grateful for their understanding of the "Wine of Japan."

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The best part of my job is meeting fellow sake souls. Those people who have run head first into a passion and feel compelled to learn everything about this tremendous subject. One such sake warrior came to me via my friend John Gauntner, who hosted this fellow on one of his Professional Sake Tasting Courses. Daren Epstein is one of "those" kind of folks -- positive, funny, interesting as hell and a person who you want to spend more time with. He is an Expat living in Japan, and will soon marry his Japanese fiancee. He also is a tremendously talented photographer who has a really enjoyable website/blog called www.gaijinphoto.com (To pay his sake bills Daren happens to be a Lieutenant Colonel in the United States Army presently assigned to Headquarters, United States Forces, Japan as their Military Strategist.)

But these qualifications, albeit nice, do not do justice to Daren's newfound appreciation for sake. He has been bitten by the bug and has since relentlessly pursued his further education of all things Seishu. In this light, after a virtual discussion with Daren I deduced that he greatly enjoyed one of my favorite breweries from Yamagata, and gave him the opportunity to pen his love for Dewazakura. What follows are Daren's thoughts about two products that are made by Dewazakura -- A Junmai Ginjo called Dewasansan and a Ginjo called Oka. Both are available at True Sake and if you would like to directly communicate with Daren please go through his website. And here is Daren Epstein:

As I travel around Tokyo to sake pubs and sake stores and try to decipher menus and labels (which I am getting better at due to painful study of Japanese), I always have with me a list of confirmed favorites that I am familiar with that I refer to as guideposts, sakes that I have come to trust as being consistently good and can fall back on should I be overwhelmed in my search for new sake experiences. That may not satisfy my exploratory urges, but I know if I have my list, I will at least end up with something reliable, and if I have friends along, I can be sure that they will be satisfied with what I choose for them. One such guidepost for me is Dewazakura Dewa 33 junmai ginjo shu. Dewazakura is a brewery in Yamagata prefecture and Dewa 33 (pronounced Dewa sansan) refers to products produced by Yamagata brewers that have agreed to produce some junmai ginjo shus using Yamagata yeast (kobo KA) and Yamagata Komei rice (sakamai). Dewazakura Dewa 33 is classified as dry (karakuchi) but it is not overtly so. I find this brew to be light and fruity with a gentle sweetness. One may detect a hint of pineapple and berries, but I could also sense melon in the background. It is a well-balanced offering that travels evenly across the palate with a nice acidity. Technically, Dewazakura Dewa 33 has a nihonshudo of +4, acidity of 1.4, with an alcohol content of 15.8%. All of the pertinent information can be found online at the Dewazakura website. Unfortunately the site is in Japanese, but it still can be enjoyed and it is possible to decipher quite a lot given some patience. Dewazakura also has some other great brews on offer, one of which I consider another guidepost: Dewasakura Oka (Cherry Bouquet), an un- pasteurized (nama) ginjo shu composed of Ogawa yeast and Miyama- Nishiki rice which produces a floral bouquet that offers as much to the nose as it does to the palate. Its nose reminds me of a plum blossom grove during a Japanese spring and the flavor is rich and full with the presence of sweet strawberries. This is a very drinkable sake that is often recommended to welcome newcomers into the fold. Oka is available in Japan mainly in the springtime and for good reason, the name is synonymous with perhaps that most passionate pastime of the Japanese, cherry blossom viewing (hanami). Oka has a nihonshudo of +5, and acidity of 1.2 with an alcohol content of 15.5%. More information can be found here. Dewazakura Dewa 33 and Oka are available at True Sake (ID number JG07 and JG 10 respectively). Just place a call to 415.355.9555 and if your state allows shipment, you too can welcome these guideposts sake into your home. Stay tuned for future articles describing some of the guideposts I come across in the future and in the meantime give Dewazakura Dewa 33 and Oka a try and kanpai!

Thank you Daren. I will add my reviews to these sakes below, but first I would like to agree with Daren about how these are perceived to be dry sakes. They are indeed dry in note but they both have a lot of fruit tones to them. Great examples of sakes that have higher SMV's that drink as if they were "sweeter" -- a word I do not like using when describing sake. Thus, think dry feeling and fruity flavor.

Also as they come from Yamagata prefecture (the current gold medal champion prefecture) I think that both of these sakes are good examples of the depth in flavor found in this region. I sometimes contend that Niigata sakes are made to feel more than taste, and sometimes lack that deep flavor experience. But Yamagata sakes have both that great feeling and that superior extensive flavor build. (I am generalizing here!) Lastly, Daren spoke of an un-pasteurized form of Oka, and we do not get this version in the US. We get a Nama-cho Oka, which means that the sake has been pasteurized once rather than the typical two times. Both Oka and Dewasansan are Nama-cho in the US.

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Dewazakura "Dewasansan" -- "Green Ridge" Yamagata Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.4 This Junmai Ginjo is really milled to a Dai Ginjo rate, and has a very floral nose filled with hints of cherry blossoms and pear. It has a light and smooth beginning that greets a fruity middle mouth made up of persimmon and peach flavors and slips into round and fresh finish with no aftertaste. Dry fruit tones mixed with a tender acidity makes for an elegant and refreshing sake that feels good in the mouth. WORD: Peach WINE: Merlots/Sauvignon Blanc BEER: Ambers/Honey Ales FOODS: Steamed white fish, fried scampi, daikon stew, grilled chicken. $29/720ml & $63/1.8L

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Dewazakura "Oka" -- "Cherry Bouquet" Yamagata Prefecture. Ginjo. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.2 Rice: Miyamanishiki, Yuki Kessho milled to 50% Yeast: Association #10 This Ginjo is the sister to Dewasansan and is also milled to Dai Ginjo levels. The nose is a beautiful blend of flower blossoms, peach, radish, and spring water. It has dry start that is accompanied by a soft and creamy middle mouth filled with dried fruit overtones and a subtle melon finish. The viscosity thickens as the fluid warms in the mouth, and there is an overall floral perception from start to ending. It is a very nice example of a sake that shimmers in one's mouth as the roundness is quite prominent and appealing. WORD: Pear WINE: White Burgundy/Sauvignon Blanc BEER: Ambers/Smooth Stouts FOODS: Goes well with sushi, grilled fish, clean pastas, and fruit plates. $29/720ml & $59/1.8L

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For all of those who tasted the first round of Spring release Namas, I would like to say thank you and welcome to round two. This second "flight" of unpasteurized sakes explores a new set of Nama-feelings from extremely soft and easy to big and robust. Where we had a unique peach-yeast sake in the first flight (Kamikokoro) now we have a sake that uses three different brewing yeasts to achieve a softness that is hard to find in the Nama world.

Basically there is something for everybody, if you are a first timer or enjoy softer and silkier sake experiences I would recommend the Dewanoyuki. If you are a Nama-slut I would say jump on the Kaika. That said if you are looking for a really elegant Nama for a cocktail hour try the Otokoyama, and for you mad foodies grab a bottle of the Gokyo and throw the kitchen sink of flavors at this layered beast. There is a Spring Nama for everybody!

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Dewanoyuki "Hatsushibori" Yamagata Prefecture. Nama Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.3 Wake your nose up to cherries, mint, citrus, and fresh cut wood tones. This unpasteurized sake is water in a glass, as loads of flavors vanish into a finish that can best be described as "ghost- like." Take note of flavors such as minerals, unripe mango, and white grapes, and then ponder the concept that this sake uses 3 different yeasts to achieve a "super softness" that does not belong in the Nama world. Oddly enough this is the perfect "saliva sake" as it blends like water into your own mouth fluids. WORD: Phantom Finish WINE: Chewy reds/ plump whites BEER: Chewy Ales FOODS: Sushi, creamy pastas, fresh fruits. $28/720ml

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Kaika "Shiboritate" Tochigi Prefecture. Nama Tokubetsu Junmai Genshu. SMV: +1.5 Acidity: 1.5 What a nose filled with flower blossoms, cut grass, marshmallow, and rose water. This unpasteurized sake is loaded with ripe and delicious flavors including green grapes, powdered sugar, and overly ripened pear. There is a touch of sweetness buried in layers of balanced fruit tones that drinks quick and crisp. The mouth feel is slippery and the finish is full-bodied, curvaceous, and slinky - appealing to those who want a flavo-gasm! WORD: Luscious WINE: Deep reds/ Strong whites BEER: Pilsner/crisp ales FOODS: Grill-fare, anything on a skewer, sushi, Thai food. $28/720ml

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Otokoyama "Yukishibare" Hokkaido Prefecture. Nama Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.4 With a rolling nose of cotton candy, raspberries, and a hint of coconut this unpasteurized sake is a "sasa" or "usu" Nigori, which means it is "misty" in appearance. Clean, soft and layered behold an extremely elegant nama-sake filled with hints of honeydew, ripe papaya, Japanese apple-pear, and mineral flavors. Its gentle fruity tones drink dryer than expected and the finish is pure "class" in a glass! WORD: Elegant WINE: Merlot/Non-Oaky Chardonnay BEER: Ales FOODS: Sashimi, grilled white fish, fruit salad, creamy cheeses. $28/720ml

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Gokyo Arabashiri Yamaguchi Prefecture. Nama Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: +4 Acidity:1.9 This unpasteurized sake has a complex nose flexing with aromas From nuts and mint to strawberries and vanilla. It is huge! Think thick and crisp and add an extremely wide mouth that speaks to those who like their wines large and their boozes neat. Gokyo is a great example of a "fat" sake with layers of deep flavors such as green apple, honey clover, green bamboo and orange peel. The viscosity is thick and chewy and this balances out a vivid acidity that plays so well with the creamy taste and soft roundness. WORD: Huge! WINE: Beaujolais /Big Whites BEER: Stouts FOODS: Throw the kitchen sink at this Nama - the bigger the flavor the better! $28/720ml

Per usual these sakes will only be around as long as they last. And of course we can never predict their time on the shelves. Thus I recommend that you act sooner rather than later in regards to these really special sakes. If you have the Nama fever we charge $100 for all four if you get one of each (a savings of $12!). And for those in distant lands we have a "no exceptions policy" that if you would like the Namas delivered you must pay for overnight shipping.

Lastly, a reader reminded me that I forgot to formally introduce the Daiginjo of one of my favorites breweries to the store. I speak of Urakasumi the superb makers of nihonshu from Miyagi prefecture. They are one of the classiest and most respected sake breweries in Japan. Currently we carry their Junmai, their Junmai Ginjo (Zen), and their Fall-released single pasteurized seasonal sake. But to date we, nor anybody else, had access to their Junmai Dai Ginjo. That is until two months ago. So please say hello to a tremendous Daiginjo that explores the soft and silky side of sake, and the next time a celebration calls for sake think of this superb brew.

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Urakasumi "Misty Bay" Miyagi Prefecture. Junmai Dai Ginjo. SMV: 1.5 Acidity: 1.5 This Dai Ginjo has a subtle nose filled with cherries, minerals and honeydew melon. Urakasumi has made a brew that is slick, layered, and expressive all wrapped up in the most enjoyably drinkable package. If a sake could be rich and light this is it! If a sake could have huge flavor in a silky delivery this is it! If a sake could roll layers of flavor through your mouth then vanish without a trace this is it! A hint of powdered sugar, a trace of Asian apple pear, and vein of minerals leads to a great "gulp." WORD: Superb WINE: Pinot Noir/Merlot/French Chardonnay BEER: Layered ales FOODS: Sashimi, oysters, shellfish, buttery cheeses. $79/720ml

You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com

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April 26th -- Night of the Nigori! This tasting is for those who like it cloudy! We will taste 6 unfiltered sakes in the very cozy Zoya Restaurant in Hayes Valley. • When: Wed April 26th from 6:00-7:30PM • Where: Zoya Restaurant (formerly Midori Mushi Sushi) 465 Grove Street @ Gough -- (415) 626-9692 www.zoyasf.com • How Many: Only 18 Seats (no parties over 4 people please) • How Much: $45/person • What: 6 Nigori (unfiltered) sakes and appetizers from Zoya's menu • What Else: Very enlightening sake conversation and handouts on this forbidden form of sake! Please phone the store to purchase your tickets 415.355.9555. This event will sell out in a day or two.

May 9th -- The Importer Feedback Tasting! This is the first-ever "Meet and greet a sake importer to pick their mind about six excellent brews" tasting. Henry Sidel from Joto Sake - www.jotosake.com - will be sharing several of his brews for our collective review. This event is for those who will actively participate. That is why True Sake will "invite" 10 of our customers and leave 10 seats open to those who feel up to the fun of really expressing their thoughts (no pressure -- just fun) about the sakes. Henry will use this information for marketing purposes. Consider this an "evaluation" tasting. • When: Tues May 9th from 6:00-8:00PM • Where: Yet To Be Determined • How Many: Only 10 seats open to the public (10 of our past tasters will be invited for a group of 20) • How Much: $30/person • What: 6 sakes from Joto Sake plus a selection of appetizers This unique event will sell out immediately so please do not hesitate. Again please be prepared to share your thoughts on the sakes that we taste. Please phone 415.355.9555 to reserve your spot.

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This review is for all those people who email and say that they couldn't get tickets for the event, so as conciliation could I please post the tasting information. Your wish is my command.

On March 21st our very good friends at Sebo (please see the review above) hosted our True Sake -- Sake 101 For Beginners Tasting. The 40+ tasters were treated to several announced and un-announced sakes including the one that we made right there on the spot. Herewith is the list of sakes tasted:

1. Ginban Banshu Junmai Dai Ginjo from Toyama Prefecture
2. Onikarakuchi Junmai From Yamagata Prefecture
3. Ichinokura Nama Junmai From Miyagi Prefecture
4. Kubota Senju Honjozo From Niigata Prefecture
5. Wakatake Junmai Ginjo From Shizouka Prefecture
6. Kan Chiku Junmai Dai Ginjo From Nagano Prefecture
7. Tenranzan Koten Junmai Dai Ginjo Koshu From Saitama Prefecture
8. Shirakawago Junmai Ginjo Nigori From Gifu Prefecture

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Hello Beau, I am a new subscriber and I apologize if this topic has been covered before but I was wondering how long can you keep a bottle of sake once you've opened it. I assume that the amount of time varies depending on the type and quality of sake. I currently have a bottle of Mu Sake(Junmai Daiginjo) from your store and a bottle of Kan- Chiku (Junmai Daiginjo) open. As they get older what can I expect to change in the flavor and bouquet? And finally, how do you recommend sake be stored, if there are any specifics. Thank you very much. Stafford

Well Stafford by the time that I replied to this question I hope that these fine sakes were processed by your liver and we need not discuss what to "expect." I expect that they are gone! Well, if not...... (he sent the email on Mar 7th) then do not worry. Sake is wonderful thing in that it is pasteurized. This beats the pants off of preservatives such as sulphites, which die in mater of hours rather than days. Now there are some folks out there who say that sake is ruined once you open it. I say BS. We all cannot live in a brewery now can we? I like to point out the fact that some Japanese sushi restaurants will keep a large bottle of sake out in the open air until it is sold and gone. This could be up to three weeks!

Sake that has been opened (seen air) starts to decay. Yuk! No not like cavities. It decays as it oxidizes. But unlike wine that goes grotti when air hits it, sake tends to get softer and at times even silkier with a muted acidity. The flavor of these open older sakes tends to compact and get thin in the middle and round on the edges. Sometimes the acidity takes hold and it gets even more brisk/sharp. You never know. It's like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates. I swear to the Bible of how sake is made! I ask the Tojis (head brewers) themselves. And they say that sake should be consumed as soon as it is opened to achieve the flavor and feeling that they wanted you to taste. That is in a perfect world. But we don't live in that world at all times. So I say that you will not really taste a significant flavor change in a sake for three to four days in the refrigerator (this is a generalization as all sakes die differently).

Now both of the sakes that you mentioned are Dai Ginjos and as such they change far less than other categories of sake as they have less impurities that go wacky. These sakes actually get a little smoother a couple days after the fact. So the answer is that there is no real answer. But rest assured most sakes (99%) are drinkable 3-4 days after opening for certain, and then it is a matter of taste. If you find that an opened bottle doesn't agree with you 5 days down the road then try warming it. Or even making it hot!

For storage think cool and dark. And try to consume the sakes between 12-15 months after the bottling date.

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. For those that are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is big Ginjo flavor. Aiyu brewery from Ibaraki makes a Junmai Ginjo called Tomoju that we do not carry. But since the owner of the brewery visited the store we decided to give this sake a try. And the Newsletter readers will get 1st crack at this baby, which we will further stock in 300ml bottles going forward.

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped I can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase -- meaning you must buy three other sakes. Aiyu Tomoju usually would sell for $32/720ml but for you glorious sake-jockeys your cost is $15. And the SECRET WORD is Ibaraki.

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Thank you for reading!

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.