In this issue:

• The "Sound of Sake" – How Sake Makes Music!
• A Sake Moment – A Spoonful at Koo
• Sake Spotlight – Rumiko Obata Looks at Manotsuru
• True Sake In The News – SF Chronicle, Radio Interview Bonanza
• New Store Arrivals – 3 Niigata Dai Ginjos & Momokawa Dai Ginjo
• Special Events – June 19th The "Full-Strength" Tasting
• Summary of the "Importer Feedback Tasting"
• "Ask Beau" – What Sake Should I Order In A Restaurant?
• The SECRET WORD

Roughly two years ago, a customer – who is far more intelligent than I – brought me an article written in a scientific magazine (no not Maxim) that appealed to those with large brains. This tech rag had an article about a Japanese inventor at JVC who had been trying to bend wood to make the perfect speaker cone for JVC speakers.

Well lo and behold the article has again surfaced but this time in a magazine that is pitched more to my mindset (no not Maxim), and basically it says the same thing about the frustrated engineer who was trying for years to make birch wood bend without cracking.

Departures Magazine – May 2006 (Frank Vizard) "The Sound Of Sake" – Satoshi Imamura, an engineer for JVC, had been trying for years to mold speaker cones from wood. When he tried with birch, a superb sound enhancer, it cracked. Then one evening in a restaurant, it hit him. He asked the waiter how the chef got his dried squid so chewy and was told it had been soaked in sake. So Imamura did the same with birch and found that he could bend it into a cone, thanks to the amino acids. The resulting line of speakers ($1,300-$1,700 a pair) has remarkable range and clarity – enough to convince even the most serious audiophiles."

This article resonates with me on two levels. The first is the age- old adage that "anything is a good idea when you are liquored up." Secondly the fact about the amino acids, which plays a huge role in the feeling of a sake, strikes a cord for those who want to know why some sakes drink thicker than others and why some sakes are better for aging than others.

When I receive a prospectus about a sake that I am about to review the brewers will always enclose the Nihonshu-do (Sake Meter Value – SMV), the San-do (which is the overall acidity level) and the Amino- sando (where they separate out the amino acid levels). But more often than not, the brewers will short cut the Amino Acid number thinking that nobody really cares. Oh but we do! Why?

One could generalize and say that the San-Do or acidity level is the driver for the flavor of the sake, whereas the Amino-sando is the driver for the feeling of the sake. Thus, when one has a low Amino Acid level the sake could be watery or too thin (so much so that the imbalance affects the flavor as well). Likewise, if the Amino Acid levels are too high one can expect a sake that is almost too chunky to the point of being funky.

The range for Amino-sando is about 0.7 – 1.4 and this probably doesn't mean much, as 100's of years of brewing have taught the makers that nothing works outside of this narrow spread. Point being, the range is so tight and most sakes hover right around the same Amino-sando number and that's just the way it is!

But I have had tons of conversations with brewers about their Amino Acids and what a brewer can do with them to maximize a particular sake over another, like tweaking an engine for more performance. And most agree to disagree what the perfect levels and ranges are and should be (remember they are all dealing with different raw materials that respond so differently to the Amino Acids). The bottom line is that some brewers like a plumper feel with their brews and jack the Amino Acids up, and others feel that a lower presence allows for more flavor flow!

Lastly, when one lays down a bottle of sake – aging or "Koshu" sakes – the brewers again differ on which type of higher or lower amino counts make for the better aged sake. Personally, I find that I prefer the fatter sakes with higher Amino Acids to age. They just get more expressive for me, as the nutty, musky, earthy elements explode more, and this may perhaps be another reason as to why the oh so elusive and vague "umami" characteristic comes forth driven by the Amino Acid count in sakes that are not aged.

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I have been encouraged to comment on occasion about restaurants that I visit with the express purpose of checking out their "sake game." Sometimes these visits are ummmm well how do I put it? Not worth it! (But I will never write about those encounters.) And other times I am greatly rewarded by chefs and owners who take great care in marrying their sakes to their cuisine. So the "Sake Moment" section will feature sake experiences that are worth checking out or at the very least hearing about.

Last month I managed to slip away to a very cool little restaurant near the UCSF Hospital called Koo, which bills itself as a "Japanese Restaurant." I had been told by numerous True Sake shoppers to give it a try, and well they were right! Firstly they have a very solid "premium sake" list that features roughly 13 brews with a Niigata tilt. (Kubota, Hakkaisan, Kikusui, etc) Each sake has a word or two description such as Otokoyama – "Dry & Sharp" or Tamanohikari – "Smooth." I had the "Duck Breast Salad" and paired it with both the Ichinokura Junmai and Kikusui Junmai Ginjo. The Kikusui did remarkably well with the dressing on the salad, which had a little citrus/pineapple twang. (For me I get a lot of citrus in the Kikusui and that matched-up perfectly).

The highlight or "Sake Moment" came with a dish that they call a "Spoonful of Happiness," which is a plate with two miso soupspoons each filled with yummies galore paired with a glass of Suigei Tokubetsu Junmai. The first spoon had loads of uni with a quail egg, tobiko, and ponzu sauce. The second had ankimo (monk fish liver) wrapped with white fish in a truffle oil ponzu sauce. The Suigei got a little lost with spoon number one, but the balance was there. The winner was spoon number two as the Suigei just rocked with the ponzu and really mellowed the entire bite into one confident yet delicate mouthful. Delicious with a capital D! The "Spoonful of Happiness" costs $9 and basically is a steal especially for all of that Happiness!

Koo Restaurant – 408 Irving Street (415) 731-7077

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"Sake Spotlight" is a unique section within the Newsletter that takes a closer look at specific sakes that may be purchased at True Sake. I approach different professionals within the industry to give their perspectives and insights to the how, what and why's for very special sakes. These insiders are importers, brewers, authors, sake sommeliers, or just enthusiasts who will take your knowledge base a little further. What I like about this segment is that often my review is quite different than that of the guest professional's adding to the point that there is no right or wrong when discussing your opinion about sake.

This month's Spotlight is an affirmation of the uniqueness of the "Newsletter." Our guest, whom I have never met in person, came to us via readership of this here rag! In one of my earlier Newsletters, I wrote about females in the sake brewing industry, the myths versus the realities of women in a historically male sport! Lo and behold, I received and email from an owner of a brewery who just so happened to be female, and since then we have had an on-going dialogue about sake and it's place in history. I actually used her in a follow-up Newsletter about being a female owner of a brewery and the trials and tribulations that go along with this distinction. (see June 2005 Newsletter)

Our guest "Sake Spotlight" reviewer is Rumiko Obata, from Obata Shuzu on Sado Island off the coast of Niigata. Rumiko can boast that one of her Dai Ginjo's just won a 6th consecutive Gold Medal in the National Competition; the longest streak in the Niigata Prefecture. But this is to be expected from a lady who was once a little girl growing up playing hide and seek around the aging sake vats in her father's brewery. This is what Rumiko wrote to me when she found out that she won the Gold again:

I was really surprised when we knew we got the medal again. 6 years in a row is the longest record in Niigata pref. By the way, there are 96 breweries in Niigata, and 6 are on this island. You must know HOKUSETSU, which NOBU carries, HOKUSETSU is also on this island. We are about half size of HOKUSETSU.I am proud that SADO has such great breweries. Our KURA is not new, modern nor huge, but hand-made brewing. That's why I am very proud of our young brew master, Kenya Kudo(34) and 7 young brewers. Also I am proud of my old KURA (brewery) which I have been familiar from my childhood. I was often playing there alone. I have been feeling something was there, like Koji or Shubo, which were called KURATSUKI (living in KURA). I am sure KURA is also happy to know we got the medal.

I may never have been introduced to Rumiko's Dai Ginjo called Manotsuru if she didn't read the Newsletter, but she does and the result is that this special brew (not the same sake as the winner of 6 GM's) graces our shelves at True Sake. So herewith is Rumiko Obata, who has been operating Obata Shuzo for the past 10 years reviewing her very own Manotsuru:

Manotsuru Daiginjo Nihonshu-do (SMV):+5, San-do (Acidity):1.2 Rice: Gohyakumangoku The design of the label is TOKI (Japanese Ibis) with image of one taking wing. TOKI is species that are disappearing from habitat, and Sado Island is known as the last home for TOKI. Our brewers are 8 including brew master. The average age is 37. I think the number of kurabito is more than average as this scale of brewery, but we need this number because we use traditional hand-made method. Manotsuru Daiginjo is very flowery, with a fruit-like fragrance including a mild sweetness such as melon and apple. Well-balanced light and smooth taste with a clean tail stands out when served just a bit cooler. It goes well with appetizers and seafood like elegant white wine. Even if you are sake beginner, I am sure you will like this sake. Manotsuru Daiginjo(180ml) is served for the first & business class passengers on the Air France as the in- flight sake since 2003' spring. We use the yeast (kobo) NO. 17 and feel that it's best to drink this floral sake chilled and out of a white wine glass. Manotsuru means the name of our town (Mano) and the word Tsuru which means crane. Tsuru is a popular name for sake brands because Tsuru is considered something lucky.

Rumiko didn't feel extremely confident with her English skills, so I didn't press her about more technical aspects of her sake like how she achieves the very nice "weight" of her brew, how her water dictates the structure of her sake, how the water on a smaller Island like Sado may very from Niigata water and similarly how her rice may vary from mainland rice, and perhaps what other yeasts she tried before settling on No. 17. (I am certain that she will get back to us on this and when she does I will relate this to you.)

I did ask Rumiko a question that I rarely do, and was very surprised to hear her answer. I asked her what other sakes "out there" (not in Niigata) impressed her. Most brewers avoid a question like this like the plague. They do not want to go on record stating they like a sake other than what they make. It's like Henry Ford driving a Saab. But she did say:

Tanizakura (Valley cherry blossoms) in Yamanashi pref. I liked their Junmai Daiginjo. But I haven't drunk Tanizakura in more than 5 years, so I am not sure how they are for the moment.

Thank you so very much for being a part of the "True Sake Experience" Rumiko, I am certain that the readers will greatly enjoy your sake. Currently we only carry this brew in a cute (think airplane sized) 180ml bottle, but this will soon change to a 300ml at the end of the summer. Herewith is my brief review of this sake, which always impresses me each time I try it!

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Manotsuru "Nature Island" Niigata Prefecture. Dai Ginjo. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.1 This incredibly smooth Dai Ginjo has a ripe nose filled with grape, sweet rice, blackberry, and wheat toast aromas. Talk about silky soft! Behold a sake that just feels amazing in the mouth. With hints of dried fruit tones, marshmallow and a vein of vanilla, the drinkability of "Nature Island" makes you appreciate complexity in a flow rather than in layers! Velvety sake at its best. WORD: Silk WINE: Pinot Noir/Chewy Soft Whites BEER: Creamy ales FOODS: Mild appetizers, sashimi, poached salmon. $15/180ml

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Well, it was bound to happen. When one writes a book, upon completion, you feel as if it is done! This particular writer forgot about the whole "public arena" concept known as criticism! And yes, as my book is now on shelves across this great land the "reviews" are starting to pour in. Pun Intended! One such review came in May in the form of a SF Chronicle review by W. Blake Gray.

Blake and I have spent a lot of time speaking about sake, and he has quoted me in several articles that he produced about Japan's national beverage. (Blake also wrote an article about ughhhhh arrrrggghhhhh I can barely type it – Shocho – which he titled "Move Over Sake Here Comes Shochu) Despite the Shochu piece Blake "gets it" and is a friend to the sake world!

May also saw a two day, actually night, radio interview blitz that had me speaking to early morning drive time commuters on the east coast. Via the wonders of satellite communications and my alarm clock I did 16 interviews on one day, which started at 4AM PST and 12 interviews on the next, which started at 3:45AM PST. I hope that somebody heard me preach about the gospel of sake and the new book. On a funny note in one interview I would be speaking to a guy named Mad Dog in the Morning, and 5 minutes later I would be talking with a soft spoken NPR-type half the country away.

You can check out the book here:
"Sake – A Modern Guide"

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In our efforts to offer as many different sakes as possible we find that we have been adding more 180ml and 300ml sakes. In this regard, there are not a lot of Dai Ginjos in this size that are available in the US. But a new importing group, which focuses on Niigata sake has given life to this under-represented size vs category dilemma. Herewith are three "small bottle" Dai Ginjos that are new to True Sake: (The first is the sake that is listed above in the "Sake Spotlight" section)

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Manotsuru "Nature Island" From Niigata Prefecture. Dai Ginjo. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.1 This incredibly smooth Dai Ginjo has a ripe nose filled with grape, sweet rice, blackberry, and wheat toast aromas. Talk about silky soft! Behold a sake that just feels amazing in the mouth. With hints of dried fruit tones, marshmallow and a vein of vanilla, the drinkability of "Nature Island" makes you appreciate complexity in a flow rather than in layers! Velvety sake at its best. WORD: Silk WINE: Pinot Noir/Chewy Soft Whites BEER: Creamy ales FOODS: Mild appetizers, sashimi, poached salmon. $15/180ml

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Hakuryu "White Dragon" From Niigata Prefecture. Dai Ginjo. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1 With a gentle nose of rose pedals, minerals, anise, and vanilla, this Dai Ginjo is a celebration of subtlety. Clean and soft textures welcome nuances on several levels. There are hints of fruit tones, but the overall drinking experience is on the dryer side. Think the three "C's" Clean, Compact, and Confident. A good example of the complexity of sake in a very drinkable brew. WORD: Clean WINE: Cabs/White Burgundy BEER: Crisp ales FOODS: Grilled fish, white fish sashimi, light appetizers. $25/300ml

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Koshi no Omachi "Ancient Rice" From Niigata Prefecture. Dai Ginjo. SMV: +3.5 Acidity: 1.2 A vast array of fruit aromas such as strawberry, plum, grape, and blueberry blended with rose water and minerals makes up the nose on this Dai Ginjo that is milled to 40%. There are not a lot of "omachi" rice Dai Ginjos out there so this guy is not only rare it is also delicious. Deep and rich it has a plump and chunky personality loaded with flavors that float on a clean creamy soft fluid. A great example of a wide mouth sake that drinks dry and zesty. WORD: Fat WINE: Chewy Reds/ Fat Whites BEER: Stouts FOODS: Grilled fish, shellfish, sushi, clean pasta. $18/180ml

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Momokawa "Peach River" From Aomori Prefecture. Dai Ginjo. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.3 This particular bottle is a celebration of the 5-Senses, which includes one of the best sounding pours in the sake world. The nose is filled with pear, peach, cherry, and salt water tones. This is not one of those "clean and gone" Dai Ginjos as layers of flavors keep "giving" throughout the mouth. Look for dry fruit elements of apricots and dried pears mixed with spicy tones including ginger and white pepper. This is a dry Dai Ginjo that starts with a creamy smoothness and ends with a tickling crispness. If you like it dry give it a try! WORD: 5 Senses WINE: Bordeaux/White Burgundy BEER: Crisp Ales FOODS: Sashimi, grilled chicken, roasted pork, creamy pasta, cheese. $62/720ml with box If you recall we spoke about this particular sake in the April 2005 Newsletter, which focused on the bottle shape to enhance the drinking experience. It's a pretty good read if you feel like revisiting why this brewery puts so much emphasis into the shape of the bottle.

You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com

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JUNE 19th – The "Full Strength" Genshu Sake Tasting! To our dear brave sake lovers: "The average alcohol content of sake is about 15%, typically it is diluted with water at the time of bottling, but for this event we are tasting sakes that are naturally brewed up to 18%-20%," says Miwa! Bigger does NOT mean Boozier! • Date: Monday, June 19 • Time: 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. • Where: Rumble Fish Restaurant 200 23rd Avenue, SF • What: 7 "Genshu" sake (Honjozo, Junmai, Junmai Ginjo, Junmai Daiginjo, and Nigori!)& ample Appetizers • Cost: $40 • Seats: 20 only • Reservation: 415.355.9555 • Cancellation: Call us by 7pm Friday, June 16 Get your tickets quickly as all of our events sell out!

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We typically get 20-30 emails per Newsletter from those wanting a summary of past sake tasting events. As such I make it a regular practice to highlight what you fools have been missing! (I say that in the most loving of ways). Point being, many people cannot attend a tasting and they want to know what goes down at these fun and informative events. Bottom-line is that we bend over backwards to create events that feature superb sakes, great spaces, and fabulous foods. You should at some point attend one of our tastings, and here's another example of why:

On May 9th Henry Sidel of Joto Sake Imports came to San Francisco to aid in a special tasting, which featured his sakes and "my people" giving great feedback! The point of the exercise was to show Henry how savvy True Sake tasters can be, and for him to hear some differing perspectives of his brews. As Henry started the Joto venture quite recently, we wanted to put his selection of sake – 4 of which we sell at True Sake – through the paces. Along with some amazing appetizers prepared by Miwa and hosted by the very beautiful FIND design store in Hayes Valley, the night was brilliant from start to finish.

Miwa's Menu: Grilled Eringi mushroom, Masago sandwiches, Japanese cucumber with mini chikuwa. (Also white fish spread, various dry squid, edamame, and rice crackers.)

Herewith are the sakes that were poured on that wonderful evening, and all are available through the store, but some may have to be special ordered, which usually means that you must order a case (6 bottles).

	#1A)	Shichi Hon Yari "The Seven Spearmen" From Shiga Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.5
	#1B)	Shichi Hon Yari "The Seven Spearmen" From Shiga Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.5 This bottle was distressed for three weeks!
	#2)	Shichi Hon Yari "The Seven Spearmen" From Shiga Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.3
	#3)	Kasumi Tsuru " The Crane" From Hyogo Prefecture. Yamahai Ginjo. SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.4
	#4)	Yuki no Bosha "Cabin In The Snow" From Akita Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.9
	#5)	Yuki no Bosha "Cabin In The Snow" From Akita Prefecture. Daiginjo. SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.3
	#6)	Yuki no Bosha "Cabin In The Snow" From Akita Prefecture. Junmai Daiginjo. SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.5

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Michelle M. from Santa Monica writes:

"How in the hell do I know what to order in a restaurant that has a list of 5 or 50 sakes without looking at the price?"

Whoooaaaaaa Michelle easy there gal! I sense your frustration and I feel the same way when buying breakfast cereals - so many to choose from but which one will work better than the others? The bottom line is that you have to ask yourself "Am I ordering a sake to sip or one to pair with food, or both?" Once you have figured out what you want to do with it the rest is easy, or should appear to be so!

Let's pretend that you and I have headed out to a sushi shack that neither of us has been to before. It's sort of date (wink wink) so we may need some social lubricant to break the ice, and therefore we want a glass to sip to get the 8-ball rolling. Typically if you were looking for a sipping sake, I would spend the extra moola for a glass of Dai Ginjo to start the evening. In this light, think of a Dai Ginjo as a "cocktail hour" sake that is clean, light and easy, which is perfect for sipping, but not so great when pairing with bigger flavored dishes such as your "Flaming Pink Flamingo Maki Of Love." So start with a Dai Ginjo and then when the food arrives jump back to a Junmai to pair with larger flavors and the sushi itself.

Here are some tricks that I try to adhere to when in a restaurant realm that I have no idea about. First I ask the waitperson if the sushi chef or chef has any personal sake recommendations that they enjoy and/or would order with your selection of cuisine. The recommendation is always the best route, except usually the guy is a part owner so he may recommend the most expensive sake in the house, at which point you say that you would like something a little more in line with Japanese pricing!

If the chef has no clue then I take a visual inspection. I look for the bottles themselves to see how full they are, which can determine their freshness. Even if I prefer a sake, if there is only 1/4 bottle left then I would select something else, the proverbial "second choice." If you cannot see the bottles and must go by the menu, take a look around the restaurant. If there are a lot of people drinking sake and the place has a reputation for good sake then order freely off of the menu. But if you get the vibe that sake is not that important, then do not order a glass of the expensive sake, because more than likely that bottle has been opened for a while and would not be worth the price in terms of performance. So pick a more affordable brew and enjoy! Think in terms of Junmai for prepared dishes and American-style sushi. Think in terms of Ginjo for sashimi and very subtle Japanese sushi, and lastly think in terms of Dai Ginjo if you would like a glass to start the evening off.

Finally, the best way to get into a brilliant glass of sake is to visit a restaurant where I made the sake menu! Then you will never go wrong!

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is "Surprise!" This is the first time that we have done a "Surprise!" SECRET WORD sake, which is actually one of four special Junmais. Why four? We couldn't pick just one, thus our indecision is your reward. We have also pre-aligned the sakes, meaning they are in order, and as my 5 year-old says "You get what you get and you don't get upset!"

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped I can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase – meaning you must buy three other sakes. These four Junmais usually sell for between $28 and $36 but for you glorious sake-jockeys your cost is $15. And the SECRET WORD is Tokyo Nights!

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Thank you for reading!

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.