Welcome to the March Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. In this issue explore the wonders of how opposite sakes in fact have more in common than not! Also read the mind of a sixth generation owner/director of a brewery in Osaka, and take a look at a unique sake from the keen perspective of a "guest sommelier." Don't forget pairing sake with movie rentals in the "AskBeau" section, and lastly remember that all of the moisture around you in one form or another is water, and as water makes up 80% of sake think of this as the circle of sake life - from the skies to the ground to the bottle to you!

In this issue:

• Opposites Attract - Finding the Commonality in Opposite Sakes
• Interview with Yasutaka Daimon - Brewery Owner and Sake Good Guy
• Sake Spotlight - Jeremy Kaplan Looks Long And Hard At Kome-Kome
• True Sake in The News - Japan Times
• New Store Arrivals - Spring Nama Sampler
• Special Events - March 20th "30 Brewery Tasting"
• Summary of the "Old-School" Traditionally Made Sakes Tasting
• "Ask Beau" - "What's Your Favorite Movie and Sake Pairing?"
• The SECRET WORD

Okay okay as we are not really into Spring and not really out of Winter, I thought this time of flux called for even more confusion, especially where your sakes are concerned. Taking this notion of the seasons both Winter and Spring are different seasons all together correct? You do not think of one and the other at the same time. It's usually just your perception of Winter - cold, damp, gray, dark, depressing or your perception of Spring - bright, green, crisp, budding, wet. We, basically, perceive them as mutually exclusive. But is this correct?

Winter and Spring are not joined by a day or a moment - they don't just change automatically from one to the next. They blend. They melt into one another. Thus in more ways than one Winter and Spring have more in common than less. And that is the point of the following tasting that I put together.

Many customers come into True Sake pick a sake by themselves and then turn to us and say, will you please pick the "Opposite sake to this one." Hmmmmm. The opposite huh? I always enjoy when customers ask this as they appear to really want to expand their horizons and really get a sense of the entire sake field in a brew or two. Can it be done? Sure, but what constitutes an opposite. Usually we will fire out the typical "Sweet/Fruity" versus "Dry/Earthy" or we will do the smooth versus sharp, heavy versus light, watery versus rich etc. Basically we are earning our keep as sake guides with this line of questioning as we must really know our stuff to move in such extremes.

What follows are 5 pairings of sakes that will play to the "opposites" angle, but will actually show you how such vastly different sakes have so much in common - sort of like Winter and Spring.

THE SIMPLE OPPOSITES: "Dry versus Sweet"

This by far is the easiest of the opposites angles. Pretty much you can look at the SMV (Sake Meter Values) and establish which brews were made dry and which brews were stopped early in the fermentation process and did not allow those yeast to eat all of the glucose. In this light I have selected Kariho Namahage (Dry) and Rokkasen (Sweet) as my two simple opposites.

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Kariho Namahage "Devil's Mask" Akita Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: +17 Acidity: 1.7 A unique nose filled with grains, cedar, and ripe fruit elements. From start to finish this Devil is a dry sake fan's dream come true, with plump fruit tones and currents of rich roasted flavors. There is a chewiness that makes the dryness dance around the mouth and the elevated acidity leaves a full-bodied experience. How can fruitiness be so dry? Do not confuse this sake with the other Devil's Mask, because this Junmai is far more balanced and exciting. Great for warming. WORD: Dry WINE: Cabs/Big whites BEER: Crisp Ales FOODS: Grilled seafood, Bar-B-Q, fried foods.

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Rokkasen - "Six Songs Of The Immortal" Yamagata Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: -12 Acidity: 1.7 In your pursuit of the complete sake experience, one must venture into the so-called sweet zone to discover the splendors and quirks of a Junmai that has a -12 SMV value. This Junmai has a ripe cherry and mushroom nose with hints of earth tones. It is a "mover" Junmai as the sweet flavor rush on the tip of the tongue moves from a robust front to a nice syrupy slide down the back of the throat. The most prominent flavor enveloped in the viscosity is ripe cherries in a syrup sauce, which meets a nice acidity play for a snappy finish. It is freakishly sublime, like a bad hair day that actually looks cool, and it is not Kool-Aide sweet. Recommended by brewer as an after dinner drink. WORD: Cherries WINE: Riesling BEER: Honey Ales FOODS: Anything that concludes a meal, Dim-sum! (Oily Chinese food)

What do these two "opposite" brews have in common? How do their seasons blend into each other? Firstly they are both Junmai sakes. Secondly there is an abundance of fruit tones in each sake, which is highlighted by a snappy acidity that is elevated to balance out the fruit. And they both have similar finishes that are partly held accountable to both sakes being on the plump side - as in viscous and chewy. From +17 to -12 you'd swear there is no commonality, but there is a lot of togetherness in these two opposites.

THE WEIGHTY OPPOSITES: "Fat versus Thin"

This is another potentially obvious opposite to pick - one brew is quick and clean and the other is plump and chewy. You can almost weigh the liquids and be done. Voila there is a thin brew and there is a fat sucker. They are surely opposites in mouth feel and glass legs. It's quite obvious. Is it the glycerine or the amino acids? Who knows, but one thing is for certain when it comes to just sitting in your mouth these two brews are indeed opposites. The first is Yuki no Bosha (fat) and the second is Kikusui (thin).

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Yuki no Bosha "Cabin In The Snow" Akita Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.9 This Limited Release Ginjo has a brilliant nose filled with peach, strawberry, and minerals. Talk about a fruity beast! A superbly innocent sake that has baskets of ripe fruit tones including strawberries and mangos that dance in a silky and viscous flow. The softness of this Ginjo and the vivid acidity are muted by a fruitiness without being sweet. A tremendous treat for those looking for a fruity experience but don't want gooey sweet. WORD: Strawberry WINE: Fruity reds/ Chardonnay BEER: Fruity ales FOODS: Shellfish, Chinese cuisine, grilled salty fare.

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Kikusui "Chrysanthemum Water" Niigata Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.4 This Ginjo has a slightly fruity nose with hints of citrus and persimmons. Dry, sharp and smooth according to most, this Ginjo sits well in the mouth and will tease you with sweet fruit tones and a dry finish. Think thin and crisp. Kikusui is fermented at a low temperature longer than most Ginjos to rid the sake of the sometimes "heavy" characteristics of a Junmai, thus giving it an overall light and dry complexion. Gin and vodka drinkers will enjoy. WORD: Citrus WINE: Sharp Whites/Dry Reds BEER: Ales/Ambers FOODS: Suitable for light and stronger flavored dishes such as dim sum, chicken/pork with mild spice, creamy cheeses and fresh fruits.

So these opposites have more in common than the fact that they are both Junmai Ginjo sakes. They both in their own weighty capacities have a brightness and crisp tingle that is quite similar. Is it a citrus sizzle, or an un-ripe fruit twang, I don't know, but I do know that they both possess similar drinking shadows for being both Fat and Thin in texture and feeling.

THE SPOKEN WORD OPPOSITES: "Loud versus Quiet"

If fermented rice and water could talk then these opposites would be the easiest to distinguish by far. For here we pit the loud mouth versus the hushed soul. Behold the "Chatty Kathy" matched against the "Silent Type." These two sakes are on the opposite side of the room when it comes to chatting capacities, as one speaks in whispers and hushes as the other speaks boldly and pronounces every word with a "Hear Me Speak" authority of style and pomp. The opposites in this context that I selected are Sempuku Kura (loud) and Akitabare Suirakuten (quiet).

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Sempuku Kura "Wine Cellar Of 1,000 Fortunes" Hiroshima Prefecture. Junmai Dai Ginjo. SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.5 This Dai Ginjo has a nectarine and dried fruit nose with a slight hint of coconut. It is dry for a Dai Ginjo and this manifests itself with a springy start and middle-mouth of grass and aromatic flavorings. The viscosity is thick and abundant and the full- bodied richness is not lost on a subtle acidity. Definitely a red wine drinker's Dai Ginjo with lots of flavor and character. WORD: Bold WINE: Big Reds BEER: Guinness/Stouts FOODS: Baked eel, scallops with broccoli, white fish with ponzu, cold steamed chicken.

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Akitabare Suirakuten "Heaven of Tipsy Delight" Akita Prefecture. Dai Ginjo. SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.2 This incredibly nuanced sake has a vivid nose filled with berries, mangos, white grapes, and clover honey elements. Talk about a gentle sake, this Dai Ginjo redefines expressive subtleties. If you blink you will miss it, but close your eyes and spelunk for layers and layers of hidden treasures such as minerals, melon, rock candy and white grape tones. Is it passive or passive aggressive? A superb sake to open the eyes of non-sake believers. WORD: Subtle WINE: Layered reds/complex whites BEER: Blond Ales FOODS: Lightly flavored cuisines

Now these two opposites are truly across the room from each, but they do have more in common than the mere fact that they are both Dai Ginjo grade sakes. Both of these sakes speak in terms of layers, layered soft fruit tones. They also have similar beginnings that are both bright and spring towards the middle of the mouth. One is so quiet and the other is so loud, but they both have such an array of aromatic flavors such as grass tones, that they do have some commonality sort of like Winter and Spring.

THE TIMELY OPPOSITES: "Fresh versus Aged"

Now this opposite pairing is probably the second easiest behind the old sweet versus dry opposites. In one corner you have a freshly released sake - Nama - that was made at the end of December and graced our shelves at the end of January. The other brew is aged for 8 years, but it is also a Kijoshu, which means that it was built differently than other sakes. To make Kijoshu a brewer will add less water than usual to the steamed rice, and add sake to make a far sweeter brew. Think about it - a two month old sake versus an eight year-old brew, how could they be any further on the spectrum of opposites? The Nama is from Kamikokoro (fresh) and the Kijoshu (aged) is from Hanahato.

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Kamikokoro Toukagen Shiboritate "Sound of Seashore" Okayama Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu. SMV: -11.5 Acidity: 1.4 This fat and fruity unpasteurized sake has subtle nose made up of honey, sweet rice, citrus and leather elements. Man! Talk about a solid and chunky Nama sake, this big and bodacious Junmai drinks far too smooth for all of the flavor action. The key is that the acidity is perfectly balanced and that is why all of the ripe, plump, and full-bodied fruit tones drink smooth and round. If you like a little sweetness and a lot of complexity this undiluted (17%) nama is a velvety dream come true. WORD: Toot-Sweet WINE: Beaujolais BEER: Sweet Ales FOODS: Anything from the grill, spicy or oily fare.

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Hanahato Kijoshu "Gorgeous Bird" Hiroshima Prefecture. Kijoshu or "aged type". SMV: -44 Acidity: 3.5 This kijoshu has been aged for eight years and has a similar nose to a sherry or port with a honey/nutty aroma. This very rich kijoshu is a balanced blend of dried fruits and earthy mushroom elements that has a malty aftertaste coupled with a full-bodied start and middle mouth. The flavor perfectly compliments chocolates of all kinds, especially dark chocolate mousses and other thicker desserts. It does go well with nutty and earthy cigars as well. The red rose color is amazing for a sake, and this brew begs to be served instead of your normal dessert wine. WORD: Chocolate WINE: Sherry/Port BEER: Thick dessert beers FOODS: Chocolate and sweet desserts of all kinds.

How can one find commonality separated by almost 9 years? These opposites do in fact have a great deal in common, from mouth feel to a sweetness that is smooth and rich. Both brews have a firm acidity play that suppresses the overall fruitiness, and the result is all flavor forward and darn smooth. (On a manufacturing side note the makers of Kamikokoro add a fourth addition in their brewing process, which mirrors the uniqueness of the Kijoshu brewing method.) These two brews have many miles between the two, but they share the same overall road.

THE TRUE OPPOSITES: "Fruity versus Earthy"

This last set of opposites do in fact have very little in common. They are the most purely opposite sakes that we posses at True Sake. This is not the typical sweet versus dry, rather it is a pairing of ripe chewy fruit and clean dirty earth tones. The similarities are few and very far between Ichinokura's Himezen (fruity) and Kirin Koshi No Takumi (earthy) and I am tired of looking! Meet a chunk of the earth and a citrus basket in liquid form.

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Ichinokura Himezen - "Princess Food" Miyagi Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: -65 Acidity: 5 The nose on this "new-style" sake is deep and complex with a mixture of citrus elements and hint of umami. Princess food is a wonder to behold as rice and water combine to taste like grapefruit juice and lemonade. A beautifully refreshing beginning meets a chewy middle-mouth filled with citrus gooeyness. It is light for being so thick, and remember to lick the front of your teeth when the sip is gone. The higher acidity and lower alcohol combine to make a brightly flavored sake that is the quintessential palate cleanser between courses. WORD: Lemonade WINE: Dessert Wines BEER: Shandy (beer/lemonade mix) FOODS: Seafood salad with citrus dressing, seared Foie Gras, grilled crab with salt.

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Kirin Koshi No Takumi - "Sake Specialist" Niigata Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: +4 This Junmai has nose of mushrooms and minerals, very earthy. A very light beginning warms up into a thinly rich middle mouth and ends with a nice slide down back of throat. It has a rich and creamy earthy pull that goes thinly through the mouth, and has a very subtle sweetness near the back of the mouth. This Junmai is a great "comparison" sake to that of a sweet floral type. It is a subtle opposite to a "fruity sake" and yet it drinks lighter than a deep rich sake. A compact flavor that is secretive and inviting. WORD: Mushroom WINE: Shiraz/Zins/Sauvignon Blancs BEER: Earthy Pilsners FOODS: Hamburgers, Fried pork, salmon sautéed with butter.

This is THE "opposite" sake pairing that I know about at True Sake. I have looked and looked for the similarities on a bunch of levels - they simply do not exist. So in a word this is the winner if you are seeking the two sakes born of separate parents.

You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com

Our inventory list is here.

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In early February I had a chance to take one of my favorite "sake guys" to dinner in SF. Yasutaka Daimon is the owner of Daimon Shuzu in Osaka - makers of the Junmai Ginjo called Mukune or "Root of Innocence." (I will put a Mukune review at the end of the interview.) Little did he know that I was going to spring a 3-page questionnaire interview on him, but the trade off was very tasty as we went to Chez Spencer the "pound for pound" most underrated French restaurant in the Bay Area. (Yasutaka wanted to go "French.")

As I am always on the sake prowl, whether it be drinking or "experimenting" with sake, I surprised my subject by bringing a bottle of Mukune to Chez Spencer to see if what I preach on a daily basis actually is close to reality. Yasutaka's eyes opened wide when I produced his brew in such a splendid environment and even he said, "Will this go with French food?" So for you foodies I will confirm the "what I consider to be the obvious" realization that sake does go with rich flavors and deep layers of French attitude. (By all means please replace French attitude with Italian, Peruvian, Russian etc when it comes to sake - it all works!)

I'll be brief but let it be known that we paired each of the following flavors with a very well known old vine Chardonnay and a very "crowd pleasing Australian Sauvignon Blanc." The first dish was a poached oyster, which overwhelmed the two grape beverages, but was really enhanced by the smoothness of Mukune. Then a course of Bouillabaisse was placed in front of this libation dissection, and Yasutaka thought for sure that it would blow away his Ginjo, but in reality the Chardonnay and S.B. turned far too acidic, while Mukune mellowed the entire play. It was a surprising yet highly effective pairing. Lastly, the ugly-duckling little Japanese Ginjo from Osaka was paired with a superb roasted duck dish and let it be known that the other two "contestants" went the way of too far acidic backlash, whilst Mukune pulled out the richness and smokiness of the duck.

Now onto the real sake thoughts of a sake pioneer:

BT: How is the sake industry doing now compared to 5 years ago? YD: Depending on the specific brewer you will get many different answers. Some of them are doing well while others are not doing well at all. What is obvious is that futsu-shu is dying rapidly. (Futsu- shu is common or table sake, which is milled/polished to less than Junmai levels - roughly 20% removal.) Bottles that used to cost 1,400 yen are now selling for 500-600 yen, and there is no margin whatsoever. Lowering prices has killed the market. BT: What does this mean to the size of the industry? YD: It means that we are losing so many breweries a year to closure. There are 1,800 licensed breweries, but only 1,200 are brewing. Last year we lost 50 breweries, and we can expect to lose 300-400 in the next five years at this current market rate. BT: What is the silver lining in this destruction? YD: The good news is that the shochu boom is over. That bubble of popularity has burst, and the sake industry has to look forward to a far more compact era. Also, a lesson that has been learned the hard way is that small breweries - Jizake - have come to realize that there has to be far better relations between family and sake makers. (Meaning that the owners and their families must have far better relations with the hired sake makers.) The result of this difficult time will be better for the future of sake making, as families and brewers will have a more unified relationship. BT: How well do your retailers in Japan sell sake versus shochu, wine, and spirits? YD: Well, I wish there were many True Sake's in Japan. There is such a disconnect between retailers and brewers. They know nothing about sake today. If they knew as much about sake as True Sake we would be the dominant beverage in Japan. They don't care. They want the fast money. The easy sell. They don't care about sake, they care about money. BT: What about the costs associated with making sake? YD: (puts hand to head) The oil costs are so high. The energy to make sake is more expensive than ever. But we are seeing a reduction in the price of brewing rice, which accounts for the most expensive aspect of making sake. Overall the costs of making sake have remained roughly the same, but have been increasing a little each year. BT: In terms of the big picture, what is the greatest weakness with the Japanese Sake brewing industry? YD: Like you said the skill of the presentation of the greatness of sake. We have no idea how to convey the essence of sake to the consumer. The retailers don't. The wholesale system is dying. The message is lost. And the media does nothing at all to help. There is much room for improvement. BT: There is very little exposure to Osaka Prefecture sake in the US - tell me a little about the Osaka sake market: YD: There are 16 breweries in the guild, but only 11 are currently brewing. There is a vast perception in Japan that Osaka cannot make good sake because it is so industrial. They don't think that we have water, mountains, a freshness like other prefectures. This is not true. BT: How do you define Osaka sake? What is that certain quality? (I call it a layer of excitement.) YD: Very significant quality that reflects the amazing taste of the cuisine in the region. Kansai people know the subtlety of freshness -the umami - of flavors, the simplicity that is not too salty or overdone. We do not make overly dry sake or completely pristine sake. Don't expect us to be like other prefectures that make clean and dry sake. We appreciate a complex sweetness called Kamigata that is ours and ours alone. BT: Have brewing methods changed in Osaka and the rest of Japan in recent years? YD: The biggest change has come in the form that the original Toji system is going away. (Toji system brewing has historically been very driven by guilds and a sense of brewers being separate people from the owners of breweries - BT) Today the kuramoto (owner of the brewery) and the Toji (head brewer) must be on the same page - there is no room for feuds or run-ins. We are seeing the dawning of a new generation of a more integrated system between owners and makers. The families are having more of their children come up through the brewing side as opposed to the operating side. BT: In terms of drinking sake, what do you think of the palate of American drinkers? YD: Surprisingly it is not that different from the Japanese sake drinker's palate. This is really hard to believe. The Americans have shown a sophistication that many average Japanese consumers do not possess. It is so surprising that they are not so different. Perhaps this is because of all of your hard work? BT: What percent of your sales does the US and overseas market account for? YD: This last year the overseas market represented 35% of our total sales. And next year we expect that to be about 40%. BT: On a personal note what did your father say to you when he handed the family brewery over to you? YD: He said that he "didn't know what to do." The sake industry was so in flux, and so destined for trouble that he felt that we needed a change. He saw me as a needed change to the entire system. He felt and relayed to me that his years of experience didn't work any more that a new time had come and a new direction was needed. I was expected to provide a new direction. BT: What will you say to your son when the time comes? YD: Sake brewing is not so easy. It is so complex. I want him to know what a healthy kura feels like. I also want him to know that there is no separation between workers and owners - the generational obligation to kurabito (sake workers) - that we have an obligation to support them in their way of life. BT: Before we speak about you're amazing Ginjo called Mukune - if you didn't own a brewery what would you be doing in life right now? YD: I would be a wandering priest in India - crazy! (Laughing) Just joking! (In a serious expression) My black sheep days have benefited me as I am now so focused on making excellent sake. BT: Lastly what do you like about your Junmai Ginjo called Mukune? YD: The body and acidity. The harmony between the umami and the acidity. Not too light, not too heavy, just a certain contentment. BT: Thank you my sake brother and herewith is my review of Mukune that we sell for $18/300ml and $39/720ml:

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Mukune "Root of Innocence" Osaka Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +2 Acidity: 1.8 Mukune is a mysterious sake made for those looking to explore big flavors and disappearing acidity acts. This thick and rich sake has an acidity that says goodbye before hello. With an amazing nose of ripe melon, raspberries, honey, balsa wood and flowers, it drinks like a dream. If you close your eyes you may very well find a vein of strawberry and anisette flavors too. A magical Ginjo that "explains" the concept of sake. Think "Biblical" and imbibe. WORD: Complex WINE: Full bodied reds/ White Burgundy BEER: Huge ales/Soft stouts FOODS: Salty and savory fare, shrimp dumplings, sautéed filet of sole with lemon, oily fried food. (And of course some serious French fare)

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The best part of my job is that I get to meet you sake souls out there in the great unknown. Some come to the store, whilst others come to me via the net and this here Newsletter. One such sake soul approached me and I asked him to pen a piece on a brew that has been speaking to him. Jeremy Kaplan is a "Guest Sommelier" in New York City and he asked to write about Kamoizumi's Kome-Kome. So without further adieu here is Jeremy's take on a different sort of member of the sake family:

"Special Sakes" open the door to the world of Sake Sake and French cuisine are two words that are not normally heard in the same sentence. And other then this first sentence, you won't hear them again. At least not from me. As a guest sommelier at the two Michelin Star (I know San Franciscans... Go ahead, boo and hiss but they know what they are doing)... at the two Michelin Star restaurant Bouley in NYC, I have found that sake is not top of mind for most of our customers. Certainly, as most fine restaurants do, we offer several sakes by the glass, and bottle...like a Dewazakura, Dewasansan Nama Genshu, Junmai Ginjo and a fine Masumi, Yumedono, Daiginjo, Nagano Prefecture, both of which get an occasional pop, and not always from a Japanese customer. We try to keep new sakes on the list, and obviously freshness is of a high importance, but one sake has stayed consistently on the list. As a sommelier, you have one of the most creative positions on the floor. You have the ability to make or break a patron's experience. The right wine, or wine pairing, and you make it a night to remember. The wrong wine selection, or pairing, and you make it a night to forget. One of the most popular choices for Bouley customers is the Tasting Menu and Wine Pairing. A seasonal extravaganza of some of the best dishes you will ever try, paired with an assortment of truly fine wines from around the world. These dinners, especially the Chef's tasting which is nine courses deep, typically leave the patron a little bit overwhelmed, especially towards the end of the meal when often hearty dishes of duck, lamb or Kobe beef are paired with bold Bordeaux, heady Crozes Hermitage or an expressive Nuits-St.-Georges to round out the meal. As you see the patron's eyes turn to half-mast, and their movements become sluggish, a little bowl of fruit soup is presented as a palette cleanser before the final push of dessert comes around. Often, customers don't know what to make of a fruit soup, much less a palette cleanser, and they are even more surprised when I show up with a wine to pair with their soup. And this is where sake comes into play. After the surprise of wine being served with fruit soup, they are even more surprised, and sometimes skeptical when I present sake as the pairing. The sake that we pair with this course is the Kamoizumi, Kome Kome-Shu, from Hiroshima Prefecture. It comes in a little white bottle, with a cute bluish, lavender label. Of course, they strain to read the label, which is in Japanese, but I assure them it will be even more of a surprise then the idea of sake itself. As I pour the wine into their glass, I will ask about their experiences with sake and what they like. Typically, they indicate that hot sake is their sake of choice, and I explain, that this sake is very different. It's not junmai, or dai ginjo, or any of the other so-called "classified" sakes, but rather I call it a WINE that they should not think about too much - - as I have asked them to think about the three to six glasses of wine I have already poured them. However, I do try to associate this sake with a wine they may have experienced before since I assure them that they will have never tried a sake like this. I usually go to Riesling from Alsace as a comparison, or sometime a Condrieu (a pretty serious wine from the Rhone made from the seldom used grape variety Viognier). The nose is definitely fruity. Somewhere between bright and ripe, but definitely fruit. I believe the fruits are more tropical. Grapefruit and pineapple and I sometimes get yoghurt. The acidity seems high on the nose, which keeps things up. But the mouth feel is definitely sake. The immediate taste are those high notes of fruit and minerality, but the mouth feel is ever so slightly viscous with that oily rice/sake feel. This is where I go to Alsace and Condrieu, both wines typically have that "rub between your lips oily/sweet quality." This wine wakes them up for the next course. They are usually shocked, and 99% of the time super pleased. Even Japanese customers are taken aback by this sake. We sometimes leave the bottle on the table so the customer can study it, which in this case is dangerous for our bottom line and usually means the sake will get poured again, by the customer! A definite no-no. Of the many wines we pour by the glass, this is the one most people ask us to write down. What's nice about this sake is that it opens people's minds to sake. It drinks so much like a wine that they better relate to it. And then you hope it opens the way to try other sakes. Which is the best way to learn. Taste, drink, taste, drink... and best with friends who also want to go down this same path. As I said, as a sommelier, your job is to help people make decisions (or make decisions for them) and guide them towards experiences and memories that will last and make an impression. You also want to teach them something. About a region, or producer, a vintage or a varietal - - You want them to walk away with something more then a full, and satisfied stomach. Wine knowledge is one of those things that remains elusive to most people. If 1% of the world thought they knew something about wine, probably 1% of that 1% actually do. As a sommelier I am merely scratching the surface, and I go much deeper then the usual wine lover. The beauty of the Kamoizumi, Kome Kome-Shu is that it opens a persons mind to a whole new experience, and a whole new wine category - sake. And if they go out and try to find Kome-Kome, or some other wine or sake we have shared with them, then we have done our job. To me, success of a patron's evening with us at Bouley is when the experience of Bouley continues, even after they have paid the check - and a wine like Kome-Kome goes a long way to accomplishing that goal. As a marketing consultant, you try to get your clients to think forward, to think differently, to think outside the box - in order to accomplish their goals and move away from the competition. Perhaps I should serve Kome Kome at my next presentation. Hmmmm. Jeremy Kaplan is a guest sommelier at Bouley in NYC. When he is not pouring wine for others, he is an independent marketing consultant. Comments? Email Jeremy

Thank you Jeremy for your efforts to sway the good people of Neuvo York away from wine and more towards the world of sake. Kome-Kome has been an extremely popular sake product and as it is not exactly a sake I was reluctant to sell it at the store, but I really like the brewery and the folks who import Kamoizumi and the rest is history. It's restaurant penetration has been outstanding and we get lots of folks asking for this form of sake. We sell the 500ml for $21 at the store. We also carry several other brews that would appeal to those who like Kome-Kome.

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This is a nice sake piece in the Japan Times that features some quotes from one of our favorite True Sake customers.

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Yes, it is that time of year again. Time for freshly released Nama (unpasteurized) sakes to reach our shelves. Again, we at True Sake are very proud to continually push our importers to bring in more Nama- sakes so that you have a wider drinking appreciation of sakes that have not be heated the typical two times. By all means Nama-sake is not the end-all-be-all, but it is a great way to explore rice and water. There are many hidden aspects to Nama-sakes that you do not find in two pasteurized brews. For example, Nama-sake sometimes has a very unique green tinge to it - a very light Granny-Smith color not found in heated sakes. Also there is a freshness factor that manifests itself in young and crisp tones, a snap of sorts.

I like to tell drinkers that Nama-sakes are a little more raw than pasteurized brews. They have a brightness and at times a bigness that their fellow heated brews do not posses. I often say a 3-D flavor and feeling aspect pervades your typical Nama drinking experience. In terms of quantifying US and (western) palates, it has become evident that most drinkers prefer the largeness quality to Nama-sakes, those big and bold elements, as apposed to more subtle Nama qualities.

In this regards, we have three (NOW TWO) new brews that speak to those who like it dry, crisp and full-bodied semi-sweet. If you want a dry and clean experience be certain to try the Harushika Junmai Ginjo. And of course those looking for the thick, fat, full-bodied semi-sweet experience hook into the Junmai Genshu from Kamikokoro, and feel the goodness.

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Harushika Shiboribana "Spring Deer" Nara Prefecture. Nama Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +2.5 Acidity: 1.4 This dry unpasteurized Ginjo has a vibrant nose filled with sweet rice, white grape, and green melon elements. If you like your fresh sake on the dry side, this brew is for you as the clean crisp dryness offers a stop-gap finish. There is no real aftertaste or tail as all of the subtle fruit tones like champagne grapes and green apple stay forward in the flow. A great example of a "compact" and "tightly" flavored sake that has tones of crispness and drinks incredibly fresh. WORD: Dry WINE: Crisp whites/tight reds BEER: Crisp Pilsners FOODS: Look for salty and fresh fare and think clean cuisine like sushi. $30/720ml

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Kamikokoro Toukagen Shiboritate "Sound of Seashore" Okayama Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu. SMV:-11.5 Acidity: 1.4 This fat and fruity unpasteurized sake has subtle nose made up of honey, sweet rice, citrus and leather elements. Man! Talk about a solid and chunky Nama sake, this big and bodacious Junmai drinks far too smooth for all of the flavor action. The key is that the acidity is perfectly balanced and that is why all of the ripe, plump, and full-bodied fruit tones drink smooth and round. If you like a little sweetness and a lot of complexity this undiluted (17%) nama is a velvety dream come true. WORD: Toot-Sweet WINE: Beaujolais BEER: Sweet Ales FOODS: Anything from the grill, spicy or oily fare. $30/720ml

You can review many of our sakes on our web site:
www.truesake.com

Our inventory list is here.

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March 20th "30 Brewery Night" Note: For those who reserved spots you must call the store to secure your entry immediately! True Sake, Sebo and The Japanese Sake Brewers Union are pleased to announce a very special evening on March 20th in Hayes Valley. Over 30 different sake breweries will be pouring their goods in a very intimate setting for a one-of-a-kind sake tasting. Space for this event is extremely limited and a list has already been formed. If you reserved a spot it is imperative that you phone True Sake to pay your admission in advance. Your reservation does NOT secure your entry. • When: March 20th from 6-8PM • Where: Sebo Restaurant in Hayes Valley (Across the street from True Sake) 517 Hayes Street (cnr Octavia) • What: A super opportunity to not only taste over 112 sakes, but speak to the makers themselves who will guide you through the reason and methods for making their particular brews. Basically we are bringing Japan to your doorstep. Some of these breweries export to the US and some do not as of yet! From the famous Sudo Honke brewery (Est. 1147) to the secretive Kenbishi kura from Hyogo, and from Kotsuzumi to Daimon Shuzo from Osaka, which will be represented by none other than Yasutaka Daimon, who I interviewed for this Newsletter. • Why: These brewers want to see for themselves the interest level for sake in the west, especially in the Bay Area. They have heard that we are leading the country in terms of sake sales and appreciation so I am challenging you good people to make an impression on them. • How Much: The event will be priced at $50/taster and there is a limit of 70 tasters. I will also warn you now that the event will be cozy, as we did not want to rent out a vast ballroom. It will be intimate and extremely informative. Tasters will also receive a complementary sake glass. There will be very light fare on hand. There will be a "Trade/Industry Tasting" earlier in the day from 2pm- 4pm for restaurant owners, sommeliers, distributors, importers and media. This event is closed to the public. Please contact True Sake to secure your participation. Please phone to secure your spot! The initial phone list does not gain you entry. You must phone 415.355.9555 and pay for you entrance in advance. There will be no door sales.

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We typically get 20-30 emails per Newsletter from those wanting a summary of past sake tasting events. As such I make it a regular practice to highlight what you fools have been missing! (I say that in the most loving of ways). Point being, many people cannot attend a tasting and they want to know what goes down at these fun and informative events. Bottom-line is that we bend over backwards to create events that feature superb sakes, great spaces, and fabulous foods. You should at some point attend one of our tastings, and here's another example of why:

On February 19th True Sake hosted a tasting at Hotel Brion in Hayes Valley. The theme of the tasting was an array of traditionally handcrafted sakes that were produced using of two "old-school" techniques as in Yamahai or Kimoto method. Both of these forms of production are far more sensitive and timely, and for that reason many breweries do not produce such brews. But we selected 7 sakes from 7 great breweries and the results of the tasting where very surprising. We also - in True Sake - form added a bonus 8th sake that was a very old and damaged Kimoto sake was served to show once again how durable sake can be when put through its paces.

	Sake #1	Kariho Namahage "Devil's Mask" from Akita Prefecture. Yamahai Junmai.
	Sake #2	Hiraizumi "Splashing Spring Water" from Akita Prefecture. Yamahai Tokubetsu Junmai
	Sake #3	Tengumai "Dance of the Demon" from Ishikawa Prefecture. Yamahai Junmai Shikomi
	Sake #4	Narutotai "Red Snapper" from Tokushima Prefecture. Yamahai Junmai Ginjo
	Sake #5	Masumi Yamahai Tsukuri "Autumn Yamahai" from Nagano Prefecture. Yamahai Junmai Ginjo
	Sake #6	Daishichi Shizenshu Kimoto "Big 7" from Fukushima Prefecture. Kimoto Junmai
	Sake #7	Taiheizan Tenko " Heavenly Grace" from Akita Prefecture. Kimoto Junmai Dai Ginjo.
	Bonus Sake #8	Daishichi Kimoto Honjozo "Big 7" from Fukushima Prefecture.

Probably the most popular or crowd-pleasing brew was the Narutotai, which most tasters selected as their favorite. The second most popular sake or at least most mentioned as people liking it was the Hiraizumi. But this was very closely followed by Tengumai - a sake that used to come in only a 1.8L bottle but is now available in 720ml. We are investigating carrying this sake in the smaller bottle.

All in all the tasters found different elements about traditionally made sakes. Some liked the feeling that they tasted whilst other enjoyed the flavor that is produced by these strenuous art forms of production.

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I love questions such as this one from David G. from Oakland, CA , who asked:

"Do you ever pair sakes with movies - and if so what is your favorite movie and sake pairing?"

Well, David as True Sake is two doors down from a video store, we often get customers coming in with their rental video bag and I always ask, "what are you watching and do you want a sake to pair with that?" Here are some of my better pairings for one reason or another:

1. "The Usual Suspects" with Kaika Kazeno Ichirin "A Flower In The Wind"
   Why? Because people always call this sake Keyser Soze by accident.

2. "Fargo" with Taisetsu "Gardens of the Divine"
   Why? This brew is made in the coldest part of Japan and has snow melt qualities.

3. "Snatch" with Narutotai Nama Genshu Ginjo "Beau-Shu"
   Why? Because this brew is like a velvety punch in the mouth.

4. "Cinema Paradiso" with Shutendouji "Vulnerable Virgin"
   Why? They are both sweet soft and made so lovingly!

5. "The Seven Samurai" with Shichi Hon Yari "The Seven Spearsmen"
   Why? Captures the old fighting spirit of Japan in a fluid and in an image.

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is YOU our great customers. How would you like to taste a brew that nobody else in the US has tried yet? Well you can because we want you to, and that's the cool thing about True Sake. Be the first kid on the block to try a Junmai from one of our favorite breweries in Kyoto called Tsukinokatsura (makers of outstanding Nigori sake).

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy three other sakes. This month's sake is an exclusive Junmai that will probably sell for $25/720ml bottle but for you sake-jockeys we will part with this brew for $12. And the SECRET WORD is "I Am Valued."

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Thank you for reading!

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.