Welcome to the November Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. In this edition read how sake and Thanksgiving dinner should do the dirty bird dance together, learn how fall draft sakes are made, take a peek at sake production levels of a small brewery, watch the Spotlight shine on the ultra popular Kuheiji brand, view the newest arrivals at the store, reserve your spot of Sake and Pizza Night, and a word about shipping!

In this issue:

• Sake Relevance - The Bird Is The Word
• Sake Seasons - Hiyaoroshi "Fall Draft Sake"
• Sake Facts - A Brewer's Email About Quantity!
• Sake Spotlight - Tetsusaburo Mogi Reviews Kuheiji Junmai Ginjo
• New Store Arrivals - Hiyaoroshi - Fall Draft Sakes '08
• True Selects - Miwa and Lynette Select Monthly Brews
• True Sake In The News - Japan Times
• Sake Events - Nov 17th Pizza and Sake Night
• "Ask Beau" - "You Still Working On Shipping?"
• The SECRET WORD

Ahhhhhh Turkey Day 2008! Yes - it is that time of the year for me to get you to think outside of the box in regards to your holiday dinner! I have been doing it year-in and year-out since the beginning - my 3rd issue of the Newsletter was the November Issue where I said - give it a try! I have continued to ask and will continue to do so - As many have pointed out that I have become jaded in regards to wine - I will not make the necessary comparisons. BUT sake is different! Do not forget that - and to help you not forget that herewith is my newsletter from 2006 describing my newsletter from 2003 - huh? Never mind!

In the classic coming of age movie "Risky Business" a young Tom Cruise finds himself hiding behind his front door with a rather large transvestite prostitute on the other side. Young Tom was hoping for a different sort of prostitute when the other fellow appeared. Sensing that his potential client was desiring a different sort of lady of the evening the courteous professional asked Tom to open the door so that he could A) call a cab, and B) give Tom (whose name in the flick was Joel) the phone number of somebody who might better suit his needs. Joel hesitated and kept from opening the door. At which point in a low but very secure voice the transvestite said "Joel, be a man. Open the door."

This November Newsletter represents the 3rd year in a row that I have asked you good readers to consider supplementing sake for your typical Turkey Day libation. Two years ago I "dared" the readers to integrate sake into this very American holiday occasion. And last year I flat out begged:

"The funny thing is that I have been working so hard to get people to grasp the concept that sake need not be that rubbing alcohol jet fuel hot plonk that they are so used to in a hot sake, and if fact it is quite soft, light and filled with nuance. That was the easy sell, and now I have to wheel the big ship back the other way to show that not all sakes are soft, clean and easily overwhelmed by flavors such as cranberry, gravy, or garlic. Sake has balls when it needs to, and there are a ton of really unique and flavorful brews that go so perfectly with the "T-bird." (Hell, we even have a fantastic nihonshu (sake) to go with a Tofuty-bird) I look for a robust acidity when I pair with meat, game or fowl. Add to that butter and other mouth filling flavors I like sakes that have some staying power in terms of flavor. I select fatter sakes that fill the mouth, rather than the light clean ones that fire right through the palate. Think meaty sakes for meaty flavors, and also use a larger glass than usual to mix up that acidity. Go with your big reds glasses, and don't worry about the next day big reds hangovers. Sake is really a slam dunk this Thanksgiving, and to make it even more easy I will hang little turkeys around the necks of the sakes that excel with the bird in the True Sake store. By all means phone in - 415.355.9555 - and we will shout these out. Give the rice drink a shot at your mom's potatoes or you Aunt's version of "deep fried Turkey." You will not be disappointed. Here are "Five To Try" and they are in alphabetical order: Hiraizumi Yamahai Junmai Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai (OUT) Masumi Yamahai Junmai Ginjo (OUT) Taiheizan Kimoto Junmai Tenzan Junmai Genshu" So basically this year I am asking you all to "Be a man!" (or Woman) and go for it. Throw sake to the lions and watch how well it performs. There isn't a fowl alive that cannot be paired with nihonshu. I will add 5 more sakes that are new this year that will also stand up to that overcooked underjuiced slab of white sandpaper that your father calls his "best bird ever." Narutotai Nama Ginjo Genshu Kasumi Tsuru Yamahai Ginjo Born Muroka Junmai Dai Ginjo Nama Genshu Tsukasabotan Junmai Dai Ginjo Shizuku Otokoyama Junmai Genshu

Back to Thanksgiving 2008! Several of those recommended sakes are taking a break from our shelves - for one reason or another which more than likely revolves around current drinkability standards. I will update this list with 5 more to try plus replacements for the missing brews. And yes we will have the "Hangin' Turkeys" around bottles that work!

Kiminoi Yamahai Ginjo Kamoizumi Junmai Dai Ginjo Tomio Genzo Junmai Dai Ginjo Tengumai Yamahai Junmai Chikurin Fukamari Junmai Shirakabe Gura Kimoto Junmai Mukune Junmai Ginjo

Bird is the word in 2008 - Do your holiday proud!

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Okay - so we all pretty much know what a "Nama" or unpasteurized sake is or is supposed to be - a sake that is not heated to act as a form of a preservative. Wine has a preservative in the shape of sulfites. As wine writer Paula S.W. Laurita puts it "Sulfur dioxide is a naturally occurring compound. It is formed from sulfur and oxygen during the fermentation process. It is present in very small quantities. Some winemakers will add it to wine. Sulfur dioxide is the penicillin of wine, preventing and curing all sorts of ills. One of the most important jobs of sulfur dioxide is to prevent the wine from turning to vinegar. It acts as an antioxidant, keeping wines fresh. It does this by preventing bacterial growth. In sweet wines sulfur dioxide prevents the yeast from refermenting in the bottle." Thus you may lay a bottle of wine down for longer periods of time - in theory.

In 1569 an act by sake makers in Japan was recorded in a temple diary that changed sake production forever. These ingenious sake brewers realized that if they heated their efforts they would last longer - for shipping purposes. Huh? Yes - they found that a sake that they heated became far more stable and lasted longer as a sake in the form that they intended to make. Bingo! This meant that they could then send their sakes further and further away to larger and larger markets to meet more and more demand. Smart folks heh? Heat acted as a preservative. This sake moment of enlightenment occurred roughly 300 years before a certain Frenchman by the name of Louis realized that heat could "pasteurize" other items of note.

Fast-forward 400 years to the year and two amazing achievements occurred. Firstly man took one giant leap for mankind and boot imprints decorated our friend the moon's surface. Secondly and of equal importance (tongue meet cheek) the Japanese Brewer's Union banned the use of sulfites in the sake industry. Yup - guilty as charged - brewers used sulfites - and for proof check out older bottles of sake - pre1969- and you will see the incrementing word!

So in today's sake market - Nama really symbolizes fresh sake! Typically a brew will be "rested" for 6-9 months before being released in one form or another. Why rest a brew? Sake that is just pressed tends to be bigger and edgier - rougher - a little more loud. Resting it for a period takes the edge off and rounds out the final product. So is all nama sake brash and bold then? Nope - depends on how it is constructed and released - we just finished selling a summer released Nama Junmai Daiginjo from Umenishiki that you would be hard pressed to tell that it was unpasteurized if you didn't smell it. (Nama sake has what we in the biz call a "nama" nose - a brightness/yeastiness/greenish quality that is unmistakable - yes, time to smell your sake again!)

Are all Nama's created equal? Come on man - they do not call the sake industry the "Industry of 10,000 methods" for nothing! No, not all Namas are equal! There are "versions" of Nama sake. For example a brewer can make a sake, bottle it, and release it immediately without pasteurization. This would be called nama-sake, nama-zake, hon-nama or even nama-nama. Point is - no heat whatsoever. There is another form of Nama called nama-chozo, which is a sake that was fermented and then stored for a spell - then hit with one "heating" before being bottled (or heated in the bottle) right before release - a once pasteurized sake. Why do they do this? Again - brewers make sake to taste like something for a reason - and they feel that if they hit that brew with a second heating then it won't taste like they want it to - (there is a generalization in the sake industry that for each pasteurization the sake essentially ages a year - think mellowing out - so a twice-heated brew would have the feeling or effect of laying it down for two years - remember this is just a generalization!)

There is another form of Nama sake called nama-zume or Hiyaoroshi. This style of sake is different than Nama-chozo (once pasteurized) in the sense that brewers will ferment, press, then immediately pasteurize the brew once and rest it for 6 months - then bottle it for release without a second pasteurization! Nama-chozo equals ferment and store then heat right before bottling/release. Hiyaoroshi equals fermenting then heating once - then storing for 6 months - then bottling and releasing. Why do they do this? Why is one done before bottling and the other not? Style! It's all about the style of sake the producer wants to make. Is there a difference? Of course! Remember heating stabilizes the sake - it whacks the enzymes that in most cases alter the brew (usually for the worse). So in one form the sake is still active for +/- six months and in the other case it is not as active.

Some in the biz feel that Hiyaoroshi-style sakes are just a marketing exercise to get folks all lathered-up for their release in the fall. Others swear that these brews are made specially for Autumn flavored cuisines - including fattier fish. I am a sake romantic so I agree that they taste more full and round and have a certain richness - Autumn-like flavor and feel. One brewer said that he likens his Hiyaoroshi to a special "feeling" that is inspired by the Fall. Maybe you should try the "feeling" yourself by trying our just released line-up of Hiyaoroshi, which are featured in our True Sake New Store Arrivals.

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Sorry to you non-sake-fanatics first! I communicate daily with many brewers - less during the season if you know what I mean - and usually about ten different pearls or sake nuggets come out of these exchanges. I try to relate as much of this info to you good readers as possible - in a manner that is decipherable and readable.

I recently received an amazing email from a great brewer in Yamagata when I simply asked how much are you going to make this year? Never in my wildest dreams did I expect his total output pre-planned and pre-purchased (rice). He took the time and attention to give me a great glimpse at what he has orchestrated even before the first soaking! Rather than explain in detail about volumes and batch sizes I will give you the raw exchange of this email - the Nama version - for you to decipher. Again, if you are not a sake junky then please move along - nothing to see here! And take note on his excitement about how great his brewing rice is this season - sounds like the weather and perfect harvesting made for some tasty product.

Dear Beau, I'm sorry that the answer is delayed. The sake making from today to this year was begun. 1) How was your rice this year? Because the typhoon did not hit the ripening period, and calm autumn was spent, beautiful rice of the skin of big was able to be harvested. Because rice is excellent, the moisture adjustment is steady by slow. the maceration ..laving.. speed after washing. 12.95% in front of the steaming basket. Mubei can be finished up with stability by the best moisture value. Muat 14.05% Depends and is the water pickup 11.00% wonderful in the steaming basket is Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo level. This year's my rice is still rich. The rice grain of A net 2.10mm or more was able to be caught beautifully. It's works to taste, smell, flavor, cuts, and balance. Everything is connected with the sake of high-grade. 2) What order will you be brewing in - Futsu-shu/honjozo then junmai then ginjo etc ? Futsu-shu @3,260kg × 7shikomi Kouji Rice : Miyamanishiki 65%Seimaibuai / Mushi Rice : Haenuki 65%Seimaibuai Honjozo @3,260kg × 2shikomi Kouji Rice : Miyamanishiki 60%Seimaibuai / Mushi Rice : Haenuki 65%Seimaibuai Junmai Ginjo 60% @1,500kg × 5 shikomi Kouji Rice : Miyamanishiki 60%Seimaibuai / 1 Mushi Rice : Dewanosato 60%Seimaibuai / 1 shikomi Mushi Rice : Miyamanishiki 60%Seimaibuai / 2 shikomi Mushi Rice : Dewasansan 60%Seimaibuai / 2 shikomi Junmai Ginjo 55% @1,500kg × 12 shikomi Kyonohana 55%Seimaibuai / 1 shikomi Tsuruoka Yamadanishiki 55%Seimaibuai / 1 shikomi Kouji Rice : Miyamanishiki 55%Seimaibuai / Mushi Rice : Dewasansan 55%Seimaibuai / 1 shikomi Miyamanishiki 55%Seimaibuai / 5 shikomi Dewanosato 55%Seimaibuai / 3 shikomi Kairyoshinko 55%Seimaibuai / 1 shikomi Junmai Dai Ginjo 40% @750kg × 7 shikomi Kamenoh 40%Seimaibuai / 1 shikomi Dewasansan 40%Seimaibuai / 4 shikomi Miyamanishiki 40%Seimaibuai / 2 shikomi Dai Ginjo 40% @750kg × 2 shikomi Dewasansan 40%Seimaibuai / 2 shikomi 3) How many products will you offer this year - meaning how many different sakes will you sell in Japan? Yes, 15 kind of sakes! 4) Can I announce your Dai Koshu called Yuzuki? You can also announce Yuzuki. Thank you, 1997BY is very good. But only 400 bottles. (This is a 10 year-aged koshu sake that is out of this world!)

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In case that you have been dead for a while - and I mean really dead - then you will surly want to know about an extremely popular brewery in Japan that just started exporting their efforts to the US. Kamashibito Kuheiji from Aichi Prefecture is a kura that makes some extremely unique and "talked about" sakes - so much so that when I went to London to be a judge for the International Wine Challenge at our first "judges' dinner" one of the "judges" ordered Kuheiji Junmai Ginjo and every person at the table to a "t" muttered "Ohhhh Kuheiji!" Is it a fad brew? Is it a cult brewery? Or is it simply distinguished nihonshu that drinks very well and appeals to wine drinkers of note?

To answer this question and ironically enough to review the exact sake that graced our table in London is Tetsusaburo "Tets" Mogi a very bright light in the San Francisco sake scene. Not only a sake lover and student of all things sake - Tets Mogi is a salesperson at JFC International, San Francisco branch. He welcomes any comments, inquiries, even rebuttals to tmogi @ jfc.com. Take it away Tets!

It was about 16 years ago that Kuheiji Kuno came back to his family business of sake brewing, after brief stints in modeling and acting, only to find that it was making only sub-par sake. Kuheiji went on a quest- in search for the sake he truly wanted to make, which turned out to be at same time, a quest to find his inner self. He ultimately came across a Romanee Conti, and then realized that that was the type of sake he wanted to make. Not just a good tasting, balanced sake, but also one that will appeal to the emotions of the drinker- a sake with "dignity", "kindness", and "nostalgia". He and the toji (brew master), Akihiro Sato, try to make their sake as natural as possible- they feel that more the human process, less the magic. Every sake is genshu (cask- strength, or undiluted), even though they do not label as such because they feel that is the only way sake should be bottled. The Yamadanishiki rice used to make this Ginjo has been polished 50%, which in Japanese standards can be labeled as Dai-Ginjo, but they choose to label it as only Ginjo- a sign of their humbleness. This unique sake has gained more recognition recently, and is now one of the most sought after sake in Japan. With limited production and limited distribution, only ONE store in all of Tokyo carries their sake. As much as sake has gained more recognition recently thanks to the popularity of Japanese food, it is still considered as an obscure exotic Asian drink on a worldwide basis. Kuheiji wants to change that. It is his hope to elevate sake into worldwide recognition, like wine, something that would complement any cuisine. For that reason, Kuheiji likes to call his sake "Eau de Desir", or "water of hope", in contrast to how brandy is referred to as "Eau de Vie" or "water of life". His ambitions were partly realized when Kamoshibito Kuheiji was listed in few Michelin three star restaurants in Paris (Guy Savoy and Pierre Gagnaire, among others), making it the only sake to achieve such feat. Taste wise; this is revolution in a bottle. Nothing like any other Junmai Ginjo, or any other sake. It is also a sake of contradiction- floral but creamy, citrusy but buttery. Dignified, but down to earth. Flashy aroma, but friendly after taste. Innovative but nostalgic. Its aroma has hints of mushroom, peach, mango, or berries. It is similar to a bold Cote-du-Rhone white wine such as Viognier or Chateau Chalon, and makes one wonder if this is really made from just rice only. At the first attack, you will notice a trace amount of carbonation, which will stimulate the taste buds to open, and what follows is a symphony of all the tastes a single sake can withhold- delicate acidity, tropical sweetness, and mineral-like flavors. It possesses a wide spectrum of flavors, and you will notice a different flavor on each sip. There is just way "too much going on" in this sake to express in words, so as Kuheiji himself intended it to be, it's best to "feel it" and let it pass through your body without any premonitions. Kuheiji has never visited San Francisco, but is well aware of its open mindedness to new cultures and love for fine food. When I talked to him just last week, he said that he has plans in 2009 to visit, and True Sake will definitely be one of his stops. So until then, "a votre sante!"

Thank you Tets-san. The Kuheiji revolution is alive and kicking at True Sake where we carry two of their Junmai Ginjos. As their name is really the family name we have distinguished these two brews by their label colors and refer to them as Black Brewers Mark and Red Brewers Mark. (FYI both of these Junmai Ginjos have different importers - and one also carries the Junmai Dai Ginjo.) Also Tets would later point out in an email:

And yes, you are absolutely right in that the Kuheiji we supply you is indeed Junmai Ginjo. I always forget the Junmai part because Kuheiji makes no other than junmai sake, not to mention that there are very few non-Junmai (Honjozo) Ginjo in the US market

And if this doesn't sell ya then one more thing to chew on - the formal name of the brewery is Banjo Sake Brewing Company. Lastly, this sake was selected by Lynette as her Monthly True Sake Select last month - so we have let her have it again this month - to gloat! Herewith is my quick review of this sake:

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Kamoshibito Kuheiji "Black Brewers Mark" From Aichi Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.6 This wine-like Ginjo has a ripe nose filled with apple, melon, citrus and floral elements. Talk about a distinctive brew - chunky, funky, vivid, wide, fat and spritzy - all adjectives that come rolling out of your first sip. This is a very fruit forward sake that has hints of melon, kiwi, pineapple, cherry and apple on many different levels. If a sake could taste plush this would be that brew - a mouthful of flavors with a nice deep tail. Chewy and gooey, with a powerful fruit to acidity play that speaks to wine lovers who enjoy complexity. WORD: Plush WINE: Expressive reds/ Fruity whites BEER: Sweet ales FOODS: Think white wine fare, sushi, sashimi, grilled chicken. $37/720ml

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Okay folks.... They are back! The autumn released "Draft" brews, which are single pasteurized sakes, are back in the fridge. And as I was comparing the reviews below to reviews from the past I was incredibly pleased to see that the prices have not changed since 2005! Talk about value!

Please not that these sakes were brewed to compliment the flavors of fall. If you are looking for a complex and rich brew check out the Tsukinokatura. If full-bodied and expansive sake is your game then try the Urakasumi. And if you like it dry and tight then the Wakatake fits your bill nicely!

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Tsukinokatsura Hiyaoroshi "Autumn Draft" From Kyoto Prefecture. Junmai. SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.6 What a wonderful aroma profile on this fall-released draft sake with elements of salt water, grains, oatmeal, and melon. Round and soft this sake is chewy and deep with a long finish. There is a nice balance of richness and feeling and talk about personality! Look for hints of nougat, caramel and a touch of melon-like flavors. A very expressive sake that feels good and has a complexity that speaks to sake drinkers and 1st timers alike. A bigger glass brings out a better balance, and a smaller cup brings forth more pow! WORD: Complex WINE: Expansive reds/Chunky whites BEER: Belgian Ales FOODS: Complex and rich dishes, grilled meats and veggies, clean pasta. $26/720ml

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Urakasumi Hiyaoroshi "Autumn Draft" From Miyagi Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: +1.5 Acidity: 1.4 The nose on this single pasteurized Fall release is filled with cedar, rice, caramel, vanilla and whisper of melon elements. Round, creamy and lush this sake has a touch of sweetness but drinks far more rich than sweet. Talk about body - this brew is deep and feels weighty in the mouth. Look for hints of caramel and an over-all Cinnabon-like flavor profile that is gooey but not sweet. Plump and extremely well-balanced this brew is extremely food friendly and does very well at room temp and lightly warmed. If you like richness and body - look no further. WORD: Full-Bodied WINE: Pinot Noire/Non-Oaky White BEER: Creamy ales FOODS: Grilled oily fish, sushi, grilled chicken, pasta. $26/720ml

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Wakatake Aki No Ki-Ippon "Autumn Draft" From Shizouka Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai. SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.4 This once-pasteurized draft sake has a nose filled with earth tones, honeydew rind, hay, wild rice elements. Think dry and compact when tasting this brew, as there is an abundance of neutral and soft flavors that rest more on the earthy side. Watery, calm and gentle it drinks far drier than its SMV. There are hints of smoky and woody elements but the overall character is mellow. Closer to room temperature brings forth more body and depth. A good example of light and dry draft sake. WORD: Dry WINE: Dry reds/Dry whites BEER: Crisp ales FOODS: Grilled and salty fare, sushi, and smoked cheeses. $26/720ml

You can review many of our sakes on our web site.

Our inventory list is here.

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Welcome to "True Selects" - featured sakes that are selected and championed by Miwa and Lynette - our two resident sake studs. As we can only stock so many different brands of sake - think limited space - this effort is a way to offer sakes that we wouldn't usually carry. They will select by price-point, uniqueness, availability, and other factors that make these selections unusual for the store.

Miwa's Pick:

Yurimasamune (Futsu-shu) Great everyday sake from the maker of Yuki-no-Bosha. Yurimasamune has a perfect balance of fruitiness and rice-tone and drinks very smooth. You can enjoy this sake at any temperature with variety of food. SMV: +2.5 / Acidity: 1.3 / $17/720ml

Lynette's Pick:

Kamoshibito Kuheiji "Black Brewers Mark" From Aichi Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo. SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.6

Come on in or phone and ask why these brews speak to them and of course why they will speak.

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There is a very nice "sake story" in the Japan Times that speaks to the evolution of sake in the US from Hawaii in 1906 to premium brews today. Good store photo of True Sake.

Japan Times: Japanese premium sake takes root in U.S.

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Monday Nov. 17th - Pizza and Sake Night! • Where: Sebo Restaurant (Pizza will be delivered!) 517 Hayes St. (across the street from True Sake)

• When: Monday, November 17th, 6:30-8PM • How Many: Very limited event with seating for 24 • How Much: $30/person - limit of 4 people to a group • Why: Trying to bust the myth that sake can only go with sushi! • Format: Six sakes will be thrown at 3 different pizza styles - you will control the pairings as both the pies and brews will be in front of you! • Surprises: Of course! Please phone the store 415.355.9555 or stop by to reserve your seat.

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For the 1,000,000th time I received an email that said nothing but

"You still working on shipping?"

And so to you Brian W. from Florida I say the following:

Yes! I have been working very hard on this matter and have taken a ton of heat from many desperate sake drinkers nationwide. There are right ways to do things and wrong ways. If the wrong way is too wrong there could be big trouble in little china. So I have been doing a very deliberate search - very intensive - and very quality oriented.

I - more than you - want to get sake in your hands! Consequently, - and this is a huge tease - there is "something" on the horizon. At long last "something" has been identified and I will be in a better position to announce "something" sooner rather than later. But I beg for your continued patience. And Yes! This has taken much longer than anticipated. But good things happen to those who wait! Or something like that!

Please send your sake specific questions to askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This address is not for general questions and I only review the questions once per month. All other correspondence should use info @ truesake.com.)

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Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with a story, and this month's story is sake made in a shrine! The brewery in Nara Prefecture called Harushika formally had Shinto priests of Kasugataisha Shrine as their producers. Truly a Holy Brew!

Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber, always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD, and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy three other sakes.

This month's brew is a Junmai Ginjo called "Daigomi." The sake usually sells for $20/500ml bottle but for you sake-jockeys we will part with this very smooth brew for a mere $10. And the SECRET WORD is... Well, we only give out the SECRET WORD to those on our mailing list! So sign up for the Newsletter!

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Thank you for reading!

True Sake

TRUE SAKE: America's First Sake Store.