Dear Sake Drinker,
Welcome to the February Issue of America's sake-centric newsletter. In
this edition read about what makes for a great Valentine's Day gift,
learn about the wonderful world of "mold," check out the sake sales
scene in Ohio, behold a libation war pitting sake against wine and
beer, check out all of the new brews in the store, and don't forget
Nama Night in late February.
In this issue:
Sake Season - Valentine's Day and Sake
In years past I have constructed very dynamic and racy V-day sake
expressions, which keyed on unique and "sexy" ways to use sake in your
hearty celebration. (See past Feb issues in our newsletter archive:
2005,
2006,
2007,
2008)
This year I will focus on Valentine's Day gifts that work! (Hmmmm what
do you mean work? Ummmmm wink wink - nudge nudge - they will help get
you what you are looking for! What am I "looking" for? Ahhhhh - love! -
shnogging! - snuggling! - smootching! - that sort of stuff. Oooh Okay!)
So what follows is a list of 10 sakes that make great lovey-dovey
Valentine's gifts, and two angry brews to give yourself if love is not
your thing this year!
- Ozeki Hana-Awaka "Sparkling Flower"
This $6/300ml sparkling sake has one of "THE CUTEST" frosted pink
bottles in the business. Add a cheap champagne glass to the gift and
you are talking all action without much blood out of the wallet.
- Kudoki Jozu "Pick-Up Artist"
This superbly named Junmai Ginjo comes in two sizes - $9/300ml and
$26/720ml with box - and makes the perfect gift for that guy or gal
who is good at the dating game!
- Shutendouji Mitaiken "Vulnerable Virgin"
This sexy beast has a bottle with a little longer neck - the brewers
say that it makes the pour sound better but by looking at the
$42/720ml you'd swear that they had sex on their minds when
designing it.
- Shirataki Jozen Mizunogotoshi "Pure Flavor"
Okay - for 6 years people have been buying this sake on looks alone!
The creamy pink box and bottle label just screams "V-Day" and at
$16/300ml with box and $31/720ml with box this sake will ride
Cupid's arrow straight to the bedroom.
- Kamotsuru Kinpaku "Tokusei Gold"
This $12/300ml and $35/720ml with box Daiginjo sake has two gold
flakes in each bottle. Why? Because crane's (the brewery's name)
mate for life! Yup - for those truly successful couples celebrating
Valentine's Day this brew is for you!
- Jokigen "Sweet Dreams"
This sweet sweet sake speaks to all of the gooshy and mooshy
elements of a sweet Valentine's Day. The $25/500ml bottle is also
very sweet to look at with a label that is dreamy!
- Harushika Tokimeki "Palpatation of Sake"
This sparkling sake is actually named after that feeling of falling
in love for the first time - when the heart flitters and palpitates!
At $14/300ml you cannot go wrong giving the "feeling" of Valentine's
Day!
- Hanahato Kijoshu "Gorgeous Bird"
Okay so maybe you need that sake to "go with" your other gift -
let's say chocolate! This incredibly dynamic and exotic aged sake -
$34/500ml with box - is one of the only reliable chocolate pairing
brews in the business. Sake and chocolate - how cool is that!
- Hakutsuru Sayuri "Little Lilly"
Yes Nigori (unfiltered sake) lovers like giving the white stuff on
"Love Day" too! Why not give a really cute frosted pink bottle -
$9/300ml and $16/720ml - filled with the smoothest and yummiest
creamy Nigori around?
- A-Zen "Ai"
This is the "Owner's Selection" for two reasons: firstly the sake
name "ai" translates into "love" and secondly the price for the
720ml bottle with an amazing red box with the word "love" on it is
$70. Oh and thirdly it is really really great aged sake that uses
brown rice in its production. Superb!
- Kariho Namahage "Devil's Mask"
Soooooo for those of you who DO NOT WANT LOVE or lovey dovey things
on Valentine's Day then this super dry (driest sake in the store)
Yamahai should speak to you! The label on this brew - $23/720ml -
has a very profound looking scary mask that should tell all of those
love birds to beware!
- Hourisen Gin "Angry Fish"
What can I say? You are alone on Valentine's Day and you are pissed!
Why not by yourself a truly amazing sake $120/720ml that captures
the essence of anger in a fluid. Well the sake is not angry, but the
fish on the label and the box looks quite perturbed. Why blow a ton
of dough on a date when you can get your anger out swimming with
this pissed fish!
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Sake Knowledge - A Lesson About Koji(-kin)
As I mentioned in the past two Newsletters - I will be in Osaka in
February making sake at Daimon Shuzo for the
Mukune International Sake
Brewing Program. As
the Director for this program I have been charged with crafting not
only a great brewing experience, but also finding some field trips that
shed further light on sake and sake making. Yasutaka Daimon mentioned a
koji-kin making company in Osaka and we reached out about taking a tour
of their facility. They agreed and we will get to see the "genesis" of
the koji making experience.
As a primer Mr. Yamashita, the chief researcher of Higuchi Company -
Koji mold makers - provided us with the following explanation of Koji
and the Koji making process. I asked for permission to pass this on to
the True Sake Newsletter readers and he heartily agreed. I did not edit
or change his text.
Koji Starter
Historical background
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In Japan we have many types of unique fermentation food products, Sake
(Japanese rice wine),Miso (fermented soybean paste), Soy Sauce,
Honkaku-shoch (a distilled beverage) and etc.
The Japanese traditional fermentation foods are made by using koji.
Koji molds grow in a variety of steamed grain and produce various
enzymes. Koji is an enzyme preparation produced by growing mold such as
Aspergillus oryzae on steamed cereals or pulses. Etymologically the
word koji is an abbreviation of kabi-tachi meaning "bloom of mold"
The main role of Koji is analogous to the use of malt in Western
nations. It supplies enzymes for degradation of materials in the
fermentation process and produce liquid or paste-texture foods with a
satisfying flavor and aroma, by the aid of yeast and lactic acid
bacteria.
Historical documents suggest that the use of koji began more than 1600
years ago. At that time, koji making had originated in China and came
to Japan via Korea. However from the early stages of koji making in
Japan there were two differences to Chinese Koji- kernels of steamed
cereals were used and the mold grown on them was mainly Aspergillus
oryzae and Aspergillus sojae.
Initially koji starter was not used. The mold grown on the steamed
cereals came naturally from the atmosphere. From experience the most
suitable types of koji for fermentation products were discovered. Part
of the previous batch of koji was kept and used as a starter for the
next batch. This procedure continued for more than a thousand years
until the early twentieth century without significant change, except
for the addition of ash to promote growth, yield of conidia and
durability.
At the beginning of Meiji period (1868-1912) , specialized producers
started to supply koji starter to breweries on a commercial basis.
However, the supply of purely cultured starter did not begin until the
beginning of the twentieth century.
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Koji starter production process
This is the process used in our company. Although other makers may have different
procedures, in principle there are not many differences.
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Ingredients
1-1 Medium
Lightly polished barley or rice is used for the koji mold culture
medium. Light polishing facilitates the penetration of mycelia
without losing too much of the cereal nutrients.
1-2 Nutrients
Ash of camellia is added to the cereals after steaming of materials
to promote the growth and yield of conidia, and to advance
durability.
1-3 Pure culture molds
We have hundreds of strains of Aspergillus. We incubate them on the
steamed barley or rice adding potassium phosphate for five days.
After drying for two days we collect durable conidia from each
matured culture. We seal the conidia of each strain in screw vials
and store them in a freezer at minus 20? for a few years to avoid
mutation and to maintain viability without infection. The starters
for the koji starter are cultured in pure form in flasks and dried.
They are stored for use as the inoculum for kojt starter.
- Production process
2-1 Medium treatment and inoculation
Polished grain is washed, put into a rotary-type cooker and soaked in
water for a few hours. The grain is then drained and allowed to stand
for 10 hours, before pressure steaming for one hour. In order to
obtain good yields of conidia and to increase their durability,
potassium-phospate or ash is added as a nutrient. The steamed grain is
cooled with filtrated air to avoid infection by alien microorganisms
steamed After cooling one three thousandth of the starter for the koji
starter is inoculated and the cooker is rotated to ensure uniform
distribution of the conidia.
2-2 Incubation
First day: The inoculated grain is put into a cloth-lined crib and
covered with canvas. It is wheeled into the pre-incubation room and
incubated for 1 day at 30?.
Second day: The crib is brought into the incubation room. The grain
is mixed thoroughly in the crib and transferred to Koji trays. About
1 kg of the grain is placed in a tray and spread evenly by hand. The
tray is covered with damp cloth. The trays are then arranged in
"brick lap stacks". Room temperature is controlled at 30? and
humidity at 90-95%.
Third day: The cloths, which have dried by now, are replaced by new
damp ones. The room conditions are as the day before.
Fourth day: The same as the third day.
Fifth day: Leave koji untouched until the next day.
Sixth day: The matured koji is removed from the incubation room.
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Drying and Sieving
3-1 Drying
The matured koji is transferred to square plates and spread out into
a thin layer. The plate is placed on a trolley which is wheeled into
a drying chamber where the koji is dried by titrated air at 40
degrees for 2 days.
3-2 Sievmq
By drying the water content of koji starter has become below 10% and
the durability of koji starter has increased. The dried koji starter
is then crushed and sifted to harvest conidia .
The conidia are separated from grain and hyphae by using net of two
steps. The yields of conidia differ depending on the inoculated
strain and incubation conditions. They range from 4 to 10 % of the
weight of the initial raw material.
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Production capacity
We can treat about 1 ton of raw materials per day. As I mentioned
before, the yields of conidia differ according to the Aspergillus
strains. Nevertheless, based on calculations from our annual data, we
expect to get about 60kg per ton of raw material. Our factory
operates six days a week for 49 weeks a year, giving us a production
capacity of 17 tons of conidia in one year.
The annual output of conidia in Japan is estimated at 40 tons.
Our koji starter contain about 1010 cfu/ g of conidia and only less
than 103cfu/g of bacteria. We are proud to their high purity.
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Products
Nowadays we have many kinds of koji starters to cater for user's
various needs.
Types
We are selling the koji starter differing three kinds of.
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Grain type
This commodity is the most traditional form of koji starter. It
consists of dried grain to which the conidia are still attached. It
is usually used in the making of high-grade sake "ginjyo-shu" by
traditional brewing methods.
- Powder type
This commodity consists of Aspergillus conidia and powdered potato
or corn starch, because It becomes easy to use a small amount of
conidia. Most products are of this type.
- Meal type
This commodity is made by crushing the whole grain koji starter,
thereby guaranteeing even distribution of the conidia when you
inoculate.
Explanation
As mentioned before, koji starter is used in the making of koji for
the production of many kinds of Japanese fermented foods. We have a
few hundred strains of Aspergillus. These strains have different
properties to one another, for example enzyme production capacity (
balance, amount) , aroma of the matured koji, the appearance of
mycelia (color, growth on the surface or in the grain) ,
growth(rate, affinity with the materials) etc.
We supply many kinds of koji starters to satisfy the needs of our
customers. Normally we prepare ten kinds or more of koji starters
to be used with one type of fermentation foods.
Higuchi-Matsunosuke Shoten Co
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Sake Report - A Look At Sake In The Mid-West
I like hearing from sake sellers across the country and encourage as
many as I can to submit a little blurb in the Newsletter to track and
keep our finger on the pulse of sake in the US. If you are in the biz
and would like to shed a little light on the "sake scene" in your area
either as a distributor, retailer, restaurateur etc I would love to
share your sake senses with your fellow readers. The point is to
validate all of this talk about the "sake boom" in the US from the
ground up!
Herewith is a report by Tim Hallet a friend from Ohio. Tim is a sake
drinker first. He is also a marketing and sales agent for The
Marchetti Company - regional brokers for Ozeki Sake & The Jizake (JFC)
and importers of fine wine & spirits (http://www.tmarchettico.com).
Here is Tim's look at the Ohio sake scene from a guy who is moving
product to the people:
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Sake Report - OHIO
This classic heartland state has over 100 brews available to Ohioans
with the appetite - and sales numbers over the past few years suggest
that few are going thirsty. Consumption trends are extremely
positive. A benchmark brewery in the US sake market - Ozeki - has
enjoyed a stunning 25% growth in case sales from 2006 to 2008.
Though a large percentage of these gains are owed to Ozeki's
traditional domestic sake and the vital role it plays in accompanying
meals at Japanese restaurants across the state, imported, small
production brands from Ozeki and innumerable micro breweries have
gained a foothold as the number of ultra-premium brews available has
nearly doubled over the past two years.
The greatest challenge facing sake's relationship to Ohio echoes a
familiar theme in this newsletter - demystifying the beverage. Alas,
you are unlikely to walk into a local bar or restaurant and find Ohio
State fans toasting a victory with glasses of sake. As one might
expect, high-end restaurants & bars have at the very least caught
onto the coastal vogue of offering sake-tinis as a refreshing
alternative to the saccharine bombs that litter their cocktail menus,
but the humble beverage has yet to find its way to the table in
restaurants solely featuring Western cuisine. There is room for
hope, though. An increasing number of non-Asian restaurants find
themselves hosting special sake tastings and dinners in an effort to
add a fresh twist to their regular menus and entice curious
clientele. These educational events can only bring closer the day
that such establishments will discover the great depth sake can add
to their wine lists and expression of their cuisine on a regular
basis.
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Feel free to email Tim with any questions or comments:
tim @ tmarchettico.com.
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Sake Challenge - BT Takes On Wine and Beer Experts at Fifth Floor
This month's Sake Challenge was a little different than my typical
approach of taking an assortment of sakes to various restaurants
pairing brews with foods from burritos to foie gras. Typically my
opponent is the "nationality" of the foreign cuisine - better said it
is the "why in the world would you pair sake with hummus?" questions
the keep sake firmly "trapped" in the perception that sake "can only go
with Japanese food." A very formidable foe indeed!
But alas last month two new "Challengers" came from the dark and they
took the dreaded form of wine and beer! I was invited to participate in
the third round of "Beverage Battles" at Fifth Floor Restaurant in San
Francisco. The devious fiend of a host - the mastermind of libation
swashbuckling - and friend to all - Emily Wines (Master Sommelier)
crafted this program in an attempt get folks to think outside the box.
(My kind of woman).
Essentially the format was to pit three libations against each other
paired with five courses - they call the program "Three on Five."
Herewith is a link to an article written by booze sleuth Camper
English.
Of course Emily represented the grape world, I brought the rice
beverage, and Arne Johnson (Head Brewer of the Marin Brewing Company)
was charged with the task of bringing beer to this liquid knife fight.
Emily had won the previous "encounters" versus beer and mixed drinks,
and was talking about designing a rather large ornamental victory belt
fitted to her slim waist size! (We call this sukiyaki cocky!) Emily
knew the food and Arne and I did a pre-tasting to get familiar to the
flavors of each dish except the dessert.
Herewith is the menu and the scoring system was 1-5 for each beverage
paired. (Please note that we were not instructed to vote or not vote so
I gave each beverage the same score - both Arne and Amy did score from
their own perspectives. I believe this may have cost me in the end!)
FIRST COURSE:
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Aligot - fresh dug potato soup, truffled brie, celery and black
truffle.
Sake - Urakasumi Hiyaoroshi "Autumn Draft" served room temperature.
Beer - Orval Trappist Ale - Belgium
Wine - Charles Lafite Orgueil de France Brut Champagne 1989
Beer and sake ran neck in neck during this pairing. Most folks
expressed that they loved the sake and soup together, but in the end
Beer won by a nose - Sake came in second. Personally I was incredibly
pleased with the sake pairing - the smoothness of the brew went with
the starchy quality of the soup. I would have given this pairing a 5.
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SECOND COURSE:
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Crevettes - Black tiger shrimp with chermoula vinaigrette crystal
lettuce, spinach and pine nut pistou.
Sake - Bon Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai Dai Ginjo
Beer - Trumer Pils Berkeley, CA
Wine - Chateau St. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Eroica, Columbia Valley 2006
Bingo! The sake pairing rocked! Sake won this course followed by
wine. The very unique large and crafty flavors and acidity play of
the nama genshu tossed a blanket of sweetness over the spicey shrimp
- sweet heat!
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THIRD COURSE:
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Loup de Mer - Pan seared wild striped sea bass with scallops,
kalamata olives baby artichokes and caper berries, lemon mousseline.
Sake - Sawanoi Kioke Jikomi Iroha Yamahai Junmai
Beer - Temptation Ale Russian River Brewing Co. Santa Rosa, CA
Wine - Schloss Gobelsburg Gobelsburger Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2007
This was my favorite course to pair with because look at the huge
flavors hidden with the fish and shellfish qualities. I chose a very
unique brew that has some sweetness and acidity and stands up to
olives and artichokes etc. The tasters all really commented favorably
on the sake pairing but like the first round beer won and sake
finished second. What is interesting is Arne switched the first and
third beers at the beginning of the evening. This switch proved very
prophetic!
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FOURTH COURSE:
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Sanglier - Wild Boar pot pie, wild mushrooms and celeriac remoulade
Sake - A-Zen "Ai" Koshu Junmai (aged five years)
Beer - Pt. Reyes Porter Marin Brewing Co. Larkspur, CA
Wine - York Creek Meritage, Napa 1994
What a great round of drinks and chow! Just like the first round all
three brews had many similar qualities - as professionals we were
very in tune on the 1st and 3rd rounds as each selection went very
well with the other libations. Lots of symmetry! But alas the superb
sake pairing if I do say so myself succumbed to beer again. I think
Arne had a great beer and it paired well, but when he MADE that beer
then the tasters were swayed towards his story!
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FIFTH COURSE:
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Poire et Citron - Sable Breton, carmalized pears, citrus gelee poire
William caramel sauce, huckleberry sorbet.
Sake - Murai Family Nigori Genshu
Beer - Harvest Ale JW Lees & Co Manchester UK
Wine - Doisy Vedrines Sauternes 2003
We did not taste this dish in advance and I thought that there would
be more cream involved. So the citrusy rich and creamy elements
called for a Nigori or unfiltered sake - so I thought. But the dish
actually tasted more rich and I would have gone a different direction
had I known. That said sake took bronze in this course, and wine
shined!
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SUMMARY:
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Beer took first place and wine and sake tied for second. But I would
like to see a recount! I believe that there were some hanging chads
that had sake pushed through! All in all it was a blast of an
evening! And more to the point sake belonged! The menu was incredibly
robust and yet the concept of sake embraced all of the huge flavors
and paired remarkably well! I was very pleased and sake raised some
serious eyebrows! My dear hosts - and thank you to Scott and Team 5th
Floor - were very surprised to see my "competitiveness" come out! The
good news is that I have been asked back to compete again! Next time
I will vote! And will cry foul when a brewer brings his own efforts,
and swears that two of his favorite employees died in the brewing
process of that exact beer, which can tug at the heart and voting
strings of the tasters. (LOL Arne)
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Sake Exclusives - Extremely Limited Sakes For You
Consider this a "last chance" to get your paws on three "never in this
country" sakes. Yes it's true and not just a selling pitch. I asked two
importers to bring three limited runs of some very important and
exciting brews. The first is a koshu - aged sake - that is truly a
masterpiece in terms of elegance and balance. The second is one of the
really important sakes in the nihionshu world - a brew that represents
one of the most famous brewing yeasts. And the third is a very unique
Junmai Ginjo that speaks to those who like rollercoaster sakes that
move a mile a minute in flavor time.
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Takenotsuyu Yuzuki "Snow Moon"
From Yamagata Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo Koshu (10 Years).
SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.5
Note: I wrote most of the descriptions on the label for this stellar sake.
The brewer named this incredible achievement in aged sake (only 30
bottles available in US) after his first daughter and he calls it a
"Dai Koshu" because it has been aging at 42F degrees for over the
past ten years. Such a delicate aroma profile with hints of honey,
orange blossom, caramel, and leather. Talk about an intelligent sake!
Round, soft and incredibly elegant - this is not your dad's koshu!
Gentle flavors such as caramel corn and clover honey dance with
butter-toffee on a rich fluid that drinks overwhelming light for such
an old sake. Room temperature pulls out deeper richness and more
hints of butter, warming pulls hot-buttered nuts flavors, and chilled
reminds one of a Heath Bar.
WORD: Buttery
WINE: Complex Reds/Rich Whites
BEER: Light Belgians
FOODS: Steak, game, smoked fish, risotto, cheese courses, and cigars!
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Ahhhh yes - one of those very important "stepping stone" sakes. Roughly
three years ago I encouraged an importer to offer the extremely
"significant" Junmai Ginjo from this relatively young brewery in
Kumamoto Prefecture. Why? Well for one it tastes great, but for the
second and most important reason this Kura invented the extremely
popular and heavily used Kobo #9. Yup! Without question you have tasted
this yeast before - as it is used by all! (well almost all).
The Association No.9 (Kumamoto Kobo) is used almost as much as
Yamadanishiki brewing rice for the national sake competitions. (Ever
hear the term YK9) It is that effective in giving off great aroma
elements and providing body within the brew. Basically the "Rolling
Stones" of sake brewing yeast for Ginjo class of sakes. So naturally
every drinker at some point should try a brew from this kura. The
importer only imported 6 cases of this sake for True Sake - that's 30
bottles - and 18 have already disappeared!
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Kouro
From Kumomoto Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: + 0.5 Acidity: 1.6
This extremely "educational" sake (only 24 bottles in the US) has a
vast nose filled with strawberry, lychee, honeydew, vanilla and apple
elements. How can something drink so clean and yet have so much body!
This is the mystery of a classic brew that has an enormous mouth
feel, which coats the mouth with gentle and nuanced flavors. A rice-
driven Ginjo with hints of unripe fruits, a layer of vanilla, and a
whisp of the infamous umami characteristic. So soft, so chewy, so
rich and yet so well balanced. For the well versed behold "shibumi"
(estrigency) in a delicate delivery and "kire" (quick finish), which
is amazing for so much body. Larger glasses and closer to room
temperature bring out more "moods."
WORD: Big Story
WINE: Pinot Noir/White Burgundy
BEER: Big Belgians
FOODS: Anything off the grill, out of the ocean, from the soil, or
felled from the heavens.
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ICHINOKURA:
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A lot of importers get samples to try to see if they should carry
them in the west. Luckily enough many of these importers ask me if I
would like to try some of these brews. Hard work indeed! One such
brew came through the pipe-line almost four years ago from a brewery
in Miyagi Prefecture that was constructed when four small breweries
joined forces as one. We carry many of their offerings, but we never
had access to one of their best products (in my mind) until now! The
Ichinokura "Kuronohana" Junmai Ginjo (made with kuronohana brewing
rice) is one smooth and flavorful operator, and the importer secured
for True Sake two cases - he took one case to NYC - so we have 12
bottles of a very elegant and expressive sake that is - well
extremely limited!
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These sakes are LIMITED so get them while they last.
You can review many of our sakes on our web site.
Our inventory list is here.
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Sake Selects - Team True Sake Select Monthly Brews
Welcome to "True Selects" - featured sakes that are selected and
championed by Miwa and Lynette - our two resident sake studs. As we can
only stock so many different brands of sake - think limited space -
this effort is a way to offer sakes that we wouldn't usually carry.
They will select by price-point, uniqueness, availability, and other
factors that make these selections unusual for the store.
Miwa's Pick:
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Shimeharitsuru "Jun"
From Niigata Prefecture
Junmai Ginjo
SMV: +5 / Acidity: 1.5 / Rice: Gohyakumankoku, milled to 50%
$32/720ml
Elegant, expansive, and clean. Smooth texture with bright fruity
tone.
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Lynette's Pick:
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Rihaku "Wandering Poet"
Junmai Ginjo
Shimane Prefecture
SMV +3, Acidity 1.6
Rice: Yamada Nishiki
In response to several of our customers requests, I am bringing the
Wandering Poet back to the store as my sake selection of the month.
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As a SAKE BONUS Miwa is running a Hiyaoroshi Nama Special for those who
cannot get enough of the very tasty Fall/Winter brews: The deal is buy
one get one for free! WOW What a deal!!!!
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New Store Arrivals - Kunigiku, Kamotsuru, & Yoi no Tsuki - Spring Namas '08
Lots of new brews to look at - the store is loaded with "New Arrival"
placards. Just trying to catch up and get a review for each sake.
Herewith are three new rice efforts to fill your glass and imagination.
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Yoi no Tsuki "Moon At Midnight"
From Iwate Prefecture.
Daiginjo.
SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.2
This Daiginjo has an expansive nose filled with grape, mineral, ash,
honey and ripe fruit elements. A very smooth and expressive brew that
is all flavor forward in a chewy mouthful. Round and expansive the
"all over" dominant flavor is that of deep rich fruit tones like a
chutney or compote that seems to drink more alive as the fluid warms
in glass. A smaller vessel produces a longer tail and a larger one
brings out more weight and smoothness in the sake. It's one of those
brews that drinks better with oxygen, and some enjoy more on the
second day.
WORD: Chewy
WINE: Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay
BEER: Dark Belgians
FOODS: Grilled white fish, poached chicken, fruit salads, light cold
pastas.
$42/720ml
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Kunigiku "Chrysanthemum Country"
From Fukuoka Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo.
SMV: -1 Acidity: 1.6
Note: These words appear directly on back of bottle as I did the back
label for this brewery. "Kunigiku has an amazing aroma profile filled
with grape, honeydew, and apple elements. A full-bodied expansive
sake that has thick and fleshy fruit tones of pear and lyches with a
hint of anise and mint. Round, soft, and deep flavors provide a great
mouth feel."
WORD: Lush
WINE: Fruity reds/Non-oaky Chardonnay
BEER: Fat ales
FOODS: Grilled meat and fish, BBQ, Full-bodied cuisine.
$35/720ml
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Kamotsuru
From Hiroshima Prefecture.
Junmai Ginjo Nigori.
SMV: -35 Acidity: 2.4
This incredibly well-balanced "un-filtered" sake has a gentle nose
filled with cream, gardenia flower, and grape elements. Talk about an
elegant "Nigori" that is gentle in scope and direct in flavor. A very
easy brew that has soft and round flavors such as grape, peach, pear
and a touch of whipping cream. Look for the fluid to become fruitier
as the sake warms in the mouth, but the finish stays clean and fast.
Perfect for those who enjoy filtered sake, but want to try an "Un-
filtered" brew.
WORD: Elegant
WINE: Complex reds/Full-bodied whites
BEER: Sweet ales
FOODS: Meal in a glass, but does well with clean sashimi, light
cheeses, gentle fruit salads, and subtle pastas.
$27/720ml
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And yes folks the first flight of the Spring Namas are at the store. I
will write reviews for all 5 in the March Newsletter, but 'til then
here are the new contestants as written by Kazu Yamazaki - the importer
and sake guru who is responsible for so many great nama sakes being
sent to the US:
EARLY SPRING RELEASE DRAFT SAKE
Early spring released draft sake with fresh aroma and light taste.
The refined sake brewed with new rice harvested from previous fall
and bottled without pasteurization. Only available through early
spring season.
HARUSHIKA "SHIBORIBANA" 12/720ml : $ 29.00
- Junmai ginjo nama sake, from Nara-pref.
- Flavorful, light & smooth type. Very fresh and clean aromas, with
a hint of strawberries. Perfectly balanced fruity flavors with
soft texture.
- SMV : +1 / Acidity : 1.4
ICHINOKURA "NAMA GENSHU NIGORI" 6/720ml : $ 27.00
- Tokubetsu junmai nama genshu sake, from Miyagi-pref.
- Unpasteurized cloudy sake. Very fruity nigori sake, with apple,
melon and lemon aromas. Complex flavors balanced well with crisp
acidity.
- SMV : ±0 / Acidity : 1.7
KAMIKOKORO "TOKAGEN" 12/720ml : $ 29.00
- Tokubetsu junmai nama genshu sake, from Okayama-pref.
- Rich type. Very unique sake, brewed with peach yeast. Refreshing
aromas of peach, lime & bamboo. Expansive mild taste, with crisp
acidity and long finish.
- SMV : -9.5 / Acidity : 1.6
KOSHINO HOMARE "SHIBORITATE" 12/720ml : $ 27.00
- Junmai nama genshu sake, from Niigata-pref.
- Rich & smooth type. Tranquil aroma of fruits, grain & yogurt. Great
balance of acidity, fruits and savory flavors. Deep and expansive
taste with crisp finish.
- SMV : +3 / Acidity : 1.8
SHUTENDOUJI "OH-ONI" 12/720ml : $ 33.00
- Junmai ginjo nama genshu sake, from Kyoto
- Flavorful & rich type. Fruity aromas of apple and white peach.
Full-bodied sake with deep flavor of rice and long finish.
- SMV : +4 / Acidity : 1.9
You can review many of our sakes on our web site.
Our inventory list is here.
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True Sake Events - February Nama Tasting and March Trade Only Event
FEBRUARY 23RD - The Night of The Nama's
Be the first to taste the new spring release nama-zakes at this tasting
event at Sebo restaurant.
Herewith are the details provided by Miwa, Lynette and Keiko:
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First in the Season: Spring Nama (Unpasteurized) Sake Tasting
- When: Monday, February 23rd
- Time: 6:30-8:00pm
- Where: Sebo Restaurant, 517 Hayes St.
(across the street from True Sake / in between Pizza and Yoga
places)
- What: Seven just-arrived nama-zake plus snack food
- Format: Walk in anytime between 6:30 and 7:30 pm / Taste each sake at
your own pace.
- How much: $25 per person / CASH only at the door
- How many: 40 people
- RSVP: Call True Sake at (415) 355-9555 to reserve your spot
- Note: We encourage food & beverage industry folks to come and taste
this great offering as well.
MARCH 6TH - Special "Trade Only" Sake Tasting and Seminar
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This Japanese Sake Brewers Association and JETRO tasting will feature
over 20 different brewers pouring their sakes and sharing their
knowledge. It is intended for "trade only," which means restaurant
owners, wine directors, sommeliers, importers, distributors,
retailers, and media. For more details please email the event contact
person Mrs. Yuko Roberston (JETRO SF) at
yuko_robertson @ jetro.go.jp.
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Back to top
"Ask Beau" - "Where Have You Been?"
I must apologize to you all. For the past almost three years I have
been enduring a very difficult personal issue. This situation made it
extremely hard for me to be happy and talkative around the store. As a
result I spent more time away running the operations, and allowing the
most excellent duo of Miwa and Lynette to be the face of True Sake. I
greatly appreciate the job that they have done and continue to do
(which also includes our newest member Keiko).
The good news is that my issue has been resolved and the bad news is
that you will now start to see more of my ugly mug around the shop.
Again, I am very sorry for the disappearing act - I do not like being a
dark cloud in such a sunny store called True Sake. And thank you for
the countless words and thoughts of support - I greatly appreciate that
more than you will ever know. Thank you!
Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All other correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)
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The SECRET WORD
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those
who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note
for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake with
a story, and this month's story is SAKE IN A BOX. I wrote that in bold
because many folks are glancing directly at the bottom of this section
just to get the word. We do have a meaning for the SECRET WORD sakes!
We try to educate you to different brews and different nuances within
the sake industry. And yes this month's SWS is what may be considered a
"cheap sake" but it doesn't drink that way!
Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell
your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber,
always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD,
and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include
the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy
three other sakes.
This month's brew is a Kimoto Junmai from Kikumasamune and is 1.8L of
love in a Tetra-Pak to help the old wallet during these trying times.
We would usually sell this brew for $28, but for you sake-jockeys we
will part with all 1.8L for an outstanding $14.
And the SECRET WORD is... check your email inbox! We only give out the
SECRET WORD in the mailed Newsletter!
So sign up for the Newsletter!
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Thank you for reading!
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Consider this...
The US and Taiwan account for over 50% of sakes exported from Japan.
All exported sakes represent about 1% of the total output each year.
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STORE HOURS
mon-sat:
12pm-7pm
sun:
11am-6pm
560 Hayes St., San Francisco, CA 94102
CONTACT US
415-355-9555
info @ truesake.com
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Sake - A Modern Guide
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