Dear Sake Drinker,
Welcome to the June Issue of America's sake-centric Newsletter. In
this issue read how sakes make it on the True Sake Team, see how two
cans are better than one, meet Keiko our newest True Sake team member,
find a brew under $23, discover that spinach and egg really does go
well with a Ginjo from Kyoto, and check out the sake tastings for June
including BT selling sake in NYC. And in the Ask Beau section take a
peek at two new sake endeavors by True Sake Newsletter readers.
In this issue:
Sake Story - How Do Sakes Get Into the True Sake Portfolio?
Two words - "pay-off and cheapest."
WRONG
Two more "True" words - "Quality and Fit"
I often joke that I drink a lot of bad sake so you don't have to! Well
I need to reevaluate that to say that "We" at True Sake drink a lot of
bad sake so that you don't have to. And perhaps I'm being a little
harsh using the "bad" word, as there is no such thing as bad sake.
(Yes, my bias-bar is very low, which is most evident by my own mental
grading system where all sakes get an A- unless they are great and get
A's and A+'s or really really really putrid and get a B+'s)
Grading a brew via a number rating or a letter rating is bunk! I don't
like doing it. One person's 92 is another person's 29, especially if
that person is a dyslectic drinker. I have been asked by editors and
publisher's to put a number or a letter to a sake, and I will simply
not do it. I actually talked the Wine Spectator guys out of putting
numbers to the brews that I helped them review in an issue last year.
I mean come on. 89 or 90? You as a consumer would take the 90 every
day of the week, and yet it is supposedly tad bit "gooder" than the
89. I don't buy it. Especially when my other manta/motto slips in:
"Everybody is the champion of their own palette." So my definition of
a 93 for a certain sake may be a 93 for one drinker, but I would
change it to a 83 with another drinker in mind. And that is why we are
lucky at the store to be able to give specific recommendations,
without numbers and letters, to specific customers.
But without a grading system per se, how do sakes make it into our
portfolio? Good question - glad that you didn't ask. It's easy - we
taste everything extensively - almost too extensively! And we do not
do fly-by distributor tastings to make a call on a sake in two or
three sips of a bottle that may have been open for a week. We like to
be very specific! The more specific we are with the sakes the better
for you!
Do storks drop baby sake bundles off at the store on golden sunny
days? Almost! We actually get sake samples three or four ways - from
the brewers themselves, from the importers, from the distributors, and
from folks looking to become an importer etc. (We also get a lot of
unsolicited brews from folks who are thinking a sake would do well in
the States.) Back in the day - this may have been a couple of sakes
per month, but today it's literally raining bottles of sample sakes.
Good for savvy sake drinkers, way bad for poor Beau's liver. There is
just a ton of sake out there. Is it all good? Nope. Is it all bad?
Nope. Is it all average? Not at all. That is why we taste and re-taste
all of the offerings, to define-define-define what each sake is and
will become.
Now I do lie - not a lot, but I just did. I do use a number system to
rate sakes - but it's not one of THOSE number systems. I use a 1-5
scale to see if the sake has a "fit" in our line-up. For example a 1
means that this particular sake "will never ever ever ever be sold at
True Sake" as in a snowball's chance in hell. Just wont happen! And
conversely a 5 means that the sake is on our shelves now or will be
there shortly. Time for a deeper example - let's say we have a deep
and rich Junmai Ginjo that drinks great and is very affordable. Would
we replace that with another Junmai Ginjo that is deep and rich and is
okay? No way! So it takes better brews to knock off current brews.
When we taste we are saying to ourselves "wow" this is a very grainy
and earthy dry sake - do we have something like this in stock now? Is
there a fit or "need" for this type of brew? But and this is a huge
BUT - we will never sacrifice "quality" to fill a fit. A lot of
drinkers like their very tight and crisp Niigata-style clean Ginjo
sakes, and will ask for something similar. We taste a lot of these
brews, but usually there is a huge disqualifier in regards to the
quality so we simply will not carry something that would sell, but we
feel is inferior to what may become available. Essentially we will
hold out for the better "player."
Personally I do not like "axing" sakes. It hurts. It's like telling
one of your kids to beat it! But we do! We have and will again. And
this comes back to the "championing" process of our inventory. We will
notice that something is not moving. "Man I haven't tasted that in a
long time!" "Miwa have you?" "Lynette you?" And soon it becomes
evident that the sake does not have a champion at the store. So we
taste it. It's hard keeping abreast of 250 rotating sakes. But we do
it - for this exact reason. Does the brew still have a fit? Is the
quality still there? Why is it being by-passed for other sakes? And
then BINGO we will see why. Maybe it lost some quality - maybe it's
not drinking as well as a similar brew that folks are gravitating to.
Usually the reason presents itself, and we react. We love our brewers
- we love them a lot, but we will not carry a sake for friendship
purposes only. The quality and the fit has to be there. As cold as
that sounds!
We also lose the ability to sell sakes - which sucks. This occurs when
our importers or more often our distributors say that they will not
carry certain sakes anymore. For example there is a really cool
brewery in Yamagata that makes two unusual sakes that I loved to sell.
(Rokkasen - plump and sweet Junmai with high acidity and Yamahoushi -
a clean and fruity crisp Junmai Ginjo with a little twang of alcohol.)
Our local distributor no longer wants to carry these sakes - so we are
out! Cannot get them. Done. Finis. Bummer. Now we are tasting sakes
looking to fill these two "fits," - do you know of any?
I guess the bottom line is that we are really on top of our product.
We have slotted and positioned our inventory well - in fact nobody
does it better - nobody. And I am extremely proud of this. But more
importantly - you are getting the best of the best. You are drinking
some killer sakes, and have access to more because of our due
diligence and efforts to keep our inventory nothing less than superb!
Back to top
Sake Moment - Can to Can
When I saw the Narutotai Nama Genshu can in Tokushima for the first
time I said to myself - that's coming to True Sake! Basically it
called to me.
I was visiting the Narutotai brewery, learning from one of the
smartest sake men in the sake industry, and was basically in hog
heaven. After a working tour of the kura and several more hours
visiting with his rice farmers, shacho asked if I would like to taste
some product. Hmmmmmmmm! Of course. So he had a tray with roughly 9
brews on it brought in to a small tatami room looking out over a
garden, and said "I have to make a quick phone call, so help yourself
and have fun exploring." Well explore I did!
Behind three bottles I saw a small squat can - a stout little soldier
- with a very pronounced and bold large rice paper label. COOL! I saw
that it was nama so I tasted the other brews first and then dove into
"THE CAN!" Bingo - it drank as well as it looked. Come to Papa! So I
said that it must come to the US, and right there we planned for True
Sake to carry the brew. I called the importer, who usually only
imports Junmai sakes, and asked if he would carry a Nama Ginjo Genshu
for me - us? The answer was all good!
Why in a can? Why? I thought glass was the way to go for nama-zake.
Kazuo told me that he felt that by squatting the can it kept the sake
colder longer. I then asked about the flavor of metal (aluminum), and
he said "Don't worry, I would never let metal touch my sake."
Apparently he has a sealant that coats the inside of every can, which
is flavorless, and acts as a border to the brew. Smart heh?
Well - over the years we have sold a ton of "Beau-Shu," and it
continues to be the "Favorite sake," of a large contingency of True
Sake customers - who call the store and simply ask "Do you have cans
in stock?" Now we have to ask "Which can" as there is a new kid on the
block! The second can to hit the land has arrived at True Sake from
Akita prefecture. Minato Tsuchizaki "Harbor" is a Yamahai Nama Futsu-
shu Genshu. We sold two cases and will be reloading soon. (It's
actually a special order from the East Coast) So rather than doing a
head-to-head review to see which can is better or the "bestest" - I
thought that I would do a goofy Can to Can highlighting the positives
of each brew.
So here it goes - some "canned" thoughts on some canned sake:
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Narutotai: | | Minato Tsuchizaki:
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Fruity Aroma | | Mineraly Aroma | |
Dancer | | Puncher | |
Smooth | | Snappy | |
Disguised | | Boozy | |
Layered | | Zesty | |
Better Chilled | | Better warmed | |
Fruity | | Dry | |
Flavorful with food | | More punch with food | |
More bright | | More solid | |
Balanced nama | | Frisky nama | |
Female | | male | |
Heavy petting | | Heavy machinery | |
Bright Day | | Dark night | |
Management sake | | Machinist Sake | |
Team wins | | Team loses | |
First date | | Last date | |
Christmas | | Halloween | |
Wednesday | | Saturday | |
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Obviously this is all tongue and cheek as these are too vastly
different brews with their own strengths and weaknesses. It's similar
to me comparing a Yugo and Hummer because they both have four wheels.
It's not really scientific nor constructive, but they both are cans in
a bottle world! So they are joined at the hip for now!
Back to top
Sake Value - 14 Brews Under $23
In a word - there is not much two-buck chuck in the imported sake
world! I like to say not much "three-yen zen" either. But if you want
to taste great jizake sake that is imported and does not break the
bank - then don't forget to visit or rev-visit these sakes that are
pure VALUE!
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Bishonen Jumai Ginjo $18
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Taisetsu Junmai Ginjo $22
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Wakatake Onikoroshi Junmia Ginjo $23
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Mizunoshirabe Ginjo $22
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Tamanohikari Yamahai Junmai Ginjo $21
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Kinoeno Yuu-ga Jumai Ginjo $18
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Kariho Namahage Junmai $23
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Taiheizan Kimoto Junmai $21
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Akitabare Shunsetsu Honjozo $22
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Suigei Junmai $20
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Kamikokoro Tokubetsu Junmai $23
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Miyasaka Yawaraka Junmai $22
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Eiko Fuji Banryu Futsu-shu $20
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Hakkaisan Futsu-shu $20
Back to top
Sake Spotlight - Keiko Moriyama Looks at Otokoyama Yukishibare
This month's Sake Spotlight is an exciting one for me as I get to
introduce our newest member of True Sake - Keiko Moriyama. I'm certain
that many of you have seen Keiko part-timing around, but now she is
pulling some more solid hours. And like a fish to water Keiko has
blossomed into one hell of a sake communicator. Oh and let's not
forget the smile. (I get a lot of emails complimenting her sake
selling skills, and even more about her smile.) What we have noticed
is that Keiko has a sweet tooth and we have urged her into the
direction of being our "sweet" or "sweeter" sake champion. Please see
her sake pick of the month in the True Sake Selects.
Keiko - please introduce yourself:
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"I was born in Iwate prefecture and raised in Kanagawa Prefecture. I
came here as a student for the first time. I've been in the U.S. for
almost 7 years now. I've been in San Francisco for 1 and half years.
San Francisco is one of my favorite place to live. SF has great
food, people and very characteristic culture that I really like.
I worked at Organic restaurant in Kanagawa Prefecture in Japan, and
at Yoshi's here in the Bay Area. My passion (other than sake) is my
work as a wedding photographer. That's why I have much interest for
the design of variety of sake bottles and label designs. It has
beauty.
Also, I have been interested in the power of natural bacteria and
fermented food and drink, and sake caught my eye. I also enjoy sake
culture and great stories of people who make sake.
I would love to share and help all about sake as much as I can with
people in San Francisco, Japan and around the world! Thank you very
much and please visit the store!!!"
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Thank you Keiko - we are very fortunate to have you as part of the
team. Now please tell us about your first "Sake Spotlight:"
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Title: It's snowing in the sake bottle.
Otokoyama Yukishibare
I am having great spring time with seasonal Sake and dishes with
spring vegetables. Today I would like to introduce one of my
favorite categories in sake -Nama or unpasteurized sake. This season
I had many spring nama sake at my home to study, also to celebrate
spring season. One sake called "Yukishibare" from Hokkaido
prefecture, very north area of Japan, stood out.
Yuki means Snow and Shibare means really freezing. The temperature
in Hokkaido Prefecture is below freezing in the winter. I think
that's why the name of the sake is Yuki Shibare. There is a little
amount of mist on the bottom. I turned the bottle upside down and
turned back, the mist looks like snow falling and dancing slowly in
the clear glass bottle.
Finally, I opened the bottle! The bottle nose has a gentle and clean
mineral fragrance. In the glass it was more fragrant like chilled
Muscat. The first sip was very fresh, super fresh as a snow melting
in spring sunshine, then lots of savory fruits pronounced after,
such as ripe white grape, green pear and green apple. The texture
was crisp and clean.
It was best right out of the fridge temperature. This is a perfect
sake for clean and fresh sashimi, especially salmon sashimi.
Otokoyama brewery was founded in the Edo period. They have huge
dogtooth violet garden for public to show. But when you think of
this sake think of the cold winters in which it is born, and enjoy
on a warm spring or summer day.
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Well done Keiko, thank you for that!
This is the 4th year that this brew has graced our shelves. And the
consistency has been pretty stellar. It is what it is - and does not
change that much! I like that. Some of the more powerful spring nama's
- especially the genshus - tend to vary more each and every season.
But not the Otokoyama! My review for this brew can be found in the
"New Store Arrivals" section of this newsletter.
I will say that the first time that I tasted this sake - something
visual and funny occurred. The bottle was on the table in front of me,
and when I opened the cap the misty particles started lifting off of
the bottom of the bottle and made a funnel/vortex shape up to the
mouth. I was amazed. I just sat and watched this snow storm in
reverse. It was snowing up! Robert Frost's downy flake going back up
to the heavens. I was not even drinking yet! (some of you are saying
suuuuuure!) It's really a magical image, and I agree with Keiko - it's
like a snow dance in the spring!
Please note that this is a limited release and you should jump on a
bottle sooner rather than later!
Back to top
Sake Challenge - Sake vs. "American" Cuisine
I am on a spiritual sake quest that will finally put a nail in the
coffin of "sake can only be consumed at a sushi restaurant" mantra.
Wake up people! Food and sake go together - always have and always
will. If it has a tail, roots, feathers, leaves or a damn beak sake
will go with it - anytime and any place. And that is my quest - the
place or origin of the cuisine does not matter. It can be Spanish,
Italian, Brazilian or ughhhh British chow and sake will walk the walk.
Japan has chickens! Japan has salad! Japan has beef! Japan has spicy
and savory dishes! Japan has sweet and salty fare, so why not think
about having sake with these "tones" from other countries?
The Sake Challenge is my way for you great consumers to see outside of
the sushi paradigm, and to achieve this "new view on brew" I will
usually select two different sake styles and price-points and bring
them to a non-Japanese restaurant with a celebrity, sake-sleuth or
hell even a friend in tow. Read about past challenges:
When reviewing restaurants and their specific cuisines paired with
sake I use the following criteria:
- Works World Class (WWC)
- Works Well (WW)
- Works (W)
- Does Not Work (DNW)
This criterion is more true to the mission of bringing a beverage to a
restaurant not knowing what you will pair with. The point is to make
the general pairings "work." Rare is the day that you bring a specific
wine or sake to pair with a specific dish - we look for generalities
and the entire eating/drinking experience. Think of fishing with a net
as opposed to a hook and line - a pairing is supposed to reach out and
catch more flavors as opposed to just hitting one match.
This month the Sake Challenge went to Range
(http://www.rangesf.com)
to experience "American" cuisine. Using my handy dandy "Urban Spoon"
shake selector on my iPhone - I was trying to find restaurants that
claimed "American" fare as opposed to "California" cuisine. Basically
I was looking for solid flavors and expressions that harkened back to
my meat loaf days of long ago. Hell - if I'm throwing sake at Indian
food might as well get a foothold a little closer to home! The menu -
as you can see on-line - was not exactly mac and cheese and pot roast!
But it did have some very "base" elements that screamed for sake.
My partner and fellow sake demystifier for this occasion was none
other than Hiromi Luchi, who just so happens to import both of the
above mentioned sakes. Hiromi has been a stalwart on the sake scene
for over 20 years, and her selection of sakes for the JCTO portfolio
is top notch. She is perhaps the most seasoned female in the US sake
scene, and I am fortunate to consider her a friend.
PLEASE NOTE - What happened on this evening is the stuff that keeps
bringing me back to sake. My perceptions once again were not only
shattered but obliterated, and Hiromi pretty much agreed. Using my
criteria I had to pick a cheaper brew and a little more expensive brew
- the Minowamon is one of the top Junmai Daiginjos in the game, and as
much as I like the Mizunoshirabe as a drinking sake, I never dreamed
that it would stand up to some larger flavors. But alas - the wonders
of sake screamed out loud and the little engine-that-could-Ginjo was
the star of this month's Sake Challenge.
The two brews were:
- Mizunoshirabe Ginjo from Kyoto
SMV: +5 Acidity: 1.2
Read more at truesake.com
-
Daichishi "Minowamon" Kimoto Junmai Daiginjo from Fukushima
SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.4
Read more at truesake.com
We served both brews chilled to begin with - had in a cold pack. Then
let them come into room temperature later. We also used white wine
glasses.
Let The Games Begin:
1st Course: Chicken liver mousse with watercress salad and toast.
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Mizunoshirabe - The creaminess of the mousse pulled an even more
creamy quality out of the Ginjo - made for a nice soft feeling play.
The sake provided a good wash taking the flavors and depositing them
in the back of the palate - but there was a hint of a backwash as
the liver-ness comes back in a later aftertaste. Hiromi was
surprised that the Ginjo cleaned the palate so well.
• BT - W
• HU - WW
Minowamon - The Daiginjo really complemented the richness of the
mousse by highlighting the "umami" factor. Surprisingly the
watercress also danced well with the Daiginjo providing a very solid
balance in each paired sip. Just a very good flavor and feeling
pairing.
• BT - WW
• HU - WW
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2nd Course: Spinach puree with poached egg in herb butter.
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Mizunoshirabe - Bingo! An amazing pairing. One of those "how in the
world?" sake pairings - Egg? Herb butter? And spinach? Come on! But
the Ginjo pounced on this dish with an amazing balance and
dexterity. Again - a creative creaminess came out of the Ginjo that
was gentle, soft and even with the smooth "wacky" flavors. This brew
was a blanket of stability that made each flavor taste better and
increased the feeling of dish by providing a stellar wash. A perfect
dance partner.
• BT - WWC
• KY - WWC
Minowamon - The Daiginjo became far more sweet with this pairing,
and this clashed with the flavors of the dish. Basically the sake
changed the flavor and meaning of the egg and spinach combo, despite
highlighting the softness and easiness of each mouthful. The tail
was also a little too pronounced with this pairing.
• BT - W
• HU - W
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3rd Course: Goat cheese and sorrel stuffed pasta with lime butter and
chives
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Mizunoshirabe - The dish came heavy in the lime butter - made the
flavors pop and were far more acidic than buttery, thus the Ginjo
had to work extra hard to capture the flavor match. It did as well
as a booze could. It did not enhance nor conflict with the flavors,
just acted as a pure facilitator of moving the dish across the
palate. Hiromi thought that the Ginjo mellowed the Goat Cheese.
• BT - W
• HU - W
Minowamon - The Daiginjo got a little hot with the lime essences,
which was a bummer because individually it really went well with the
Goat Cheese. A good lactic-acid creamy pairing. It wasn't a
distraction but the complexity of the smoothness of the cheese and
the citric acid took the feet out from under the Daiginjo. Hiromi
liked the cheese to sake play a lot!
• BT - W
• HU - WW
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4th Course: Roasted chicken with arugula pancetta and walnut bread
salad.
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Mizunoshirabe - This salty and savory dish brought out a vanilla
like creaminess in the sake that enhanced the feeling and the flavor
of the chicken. A very nice soft and savory play that accentuated
the saltiness without being too much. A really nice compliment!
Hiromi wasn't as impressed as the chicken was a bit dry and this
clashed with her elements.
• BT - WW
• HU - DNW
Minowamon - I thought that Daiginjo acted like a big red wine that
literally pushed the whole flavor experience through the palate like
a bulldozer rather than a gentle ride together. The flavors all
became deeper and more forceful - large and hearty - with a little
acidic heat. It wasn't bad, but could have been a better hand-in-
hand walk. Hiromi was still caught up on the chicken
• BT - W
• KY - DNW
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5th Course: Erbette chard and mushroom dumpling and artichokes with a
fava bean puree Parmesan broth and pine nuts.
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Mizunoshirabe - The immediate flavor of butter and mushroom did not
jive well with the Ginjo. By this point the sakes were far closer to
room temperature so maybe this had a bearing. Funny enough the
dryness of the sake came forth for the first time during this
pairing on this dish. The balance was not there and the flavors
conflicted
• BT - DNW
• HU - W
Minowamon - The rich Daiginjo fared better with the rich buttery
slide for a solid and savory pairing. The creaminess and lactic push
of the sake brought forth a savory balance that was deep and plump.
• BT - W
• HU - W
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Summary:
Firstly the "Americana" qualities that I was looking for were not on
the menu that evening. So visions of pot pie and pork chops never
materialized, but when in Rome TX, eat like a Roman. So we did with
two really great sakes. I am still blown away by how well the $22
Ginjo from Kyoto did compared to the $80 legendary Kimoto Junmai
Daiginjo. The spinach and egg pairing will go down in history as one
of those "truly amazing" pairings that folks won't believe. But it
did! Both sakes did alright - there was not too much conflict or
disruptiveness, and in its entirety the booze to food pairings were
pretty good partners. Who would have thunk it! Does sake go with all
"American" fare? Well we will just have to keep on trying, but in the
mean time realize that sake did as well or better than a cab or a sauv
blanc in that setting - and that is all that I am trying to get at!
Back to top
New Store Arrivals: Late Spring Nama Collection - Many "New Arrival" Tags!
They're back - but going fast! The next wave of Spring Namas are
locked and loaded in the fridge! Come on in a taste the brightness of
spring in a bottle. This year the flight dropped Kaika and added
Urakasumi. In a word these brews are all drinking excellent. If you
like it dry take a crack at the Otokoyama. If you like it smooth and
easy then the Dewanoyuki is your call. If you like it large and
vibrant then saddle-up the Gokyo. And if you like it layered and rich
then give the Urakasumi a go! But get them now, because stock is
running out for the year!
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Otokoyama Yukishibare
From Hokkaido Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai Nama.
SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.4
This unpasteurized seasonal sake has a unique nose filled with kiwi,
peach and fresh cut grass aromas. Think light bright and dry - a
Nama that speaks to those who like clean and compact brews with
subtle fruit elements of green apple and white grapes. The balanced
delivery is dry and so to is the quick finish. More Granny Smith
qualities come out in a smaller vessel.
WORD: Dry
WINE: Crisp Reds/Dry whites
BEER: Tight ales
FOODS: Very clean cuisines.
$28/720ml
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Dewanoyuki Hibirakujitsu
From Yamagata Prefecture. Tokubetsu Junmai Nama.
SMV: -1.5 Acidity: 1.8
The nose on this unpasteurized seasonal sake is filled with honey,
peach, mineral, and a hint of rose hip aromas. Wow - talk about a
velvety smooth Nama sake! Round, fat and chewy this brew is loaded
with sweet sugary flavors with a tickle of dark chocolate finish.
The elevated acidity brings out more richness than sweetness. Big,
soft and well-balanced this sake drinks like a hug in your mouth. A
bigger vessel brings forth more sugary elements.
WORD: Smooth
WINE: Deep Pinot Noir/ Fat whites
BEER: Creamy Ales
FOODS: Grilled fare, tofu, avocado salads, creamy cheeses.
$26/720ml
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Gokyo Arabashiri
From Yamaguchi Prefecture. Junmai Nama Genshu.
SMV: +3.5 Acidity: 1.7
This fresh seasonally released unpasteurized sake has a fragrant
nose with apple, vanilla, sweet rice aromas. Gokyo is back and as
vast as ever - deep flavors ride a massive fluid that carries a
complexity founded on the strong legs of umami. Behold a gripping
brew that is a marathon of layered flavors such as grapes, sweet
apples, minerals, and cooked cherries. Chewy, ripe, and expansive
this is a full-bodied drinking experience.
WORD: Large
WINE: Huge reds/ Massive whites
BEER: Stouts
FOODS: Kitchen sink - throw anything at this sake!
$30/720ml
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Urakasumi Shiboritate
From Miyagi Prefecture. Nama Tokubetsu Junmai.
SMV: + 0.5 Acidity: 1.5
This nama is new to the US and has a nose filled with mineral,
berry, pear and balsa wood tones. Behold a very drinkable and
expressive unpasteurized brew from a brewery that specializes in
balance. Smooth and velvety with lots of deep rich fruit elements
offset with creamy and savory hints. Round and solid with a
complexity that speaks to the seekers and whispers to the newly
initiated. Smaller vessels bring forth more sweetness and larger
glasses announce the longer tail. A great richness for a nama!
WORD: Rich
WINE: Deep Soft Reds/White Burgundy
BEER: Creamy Belgians
FOODS: Think rich and savory dishes with lots of attitude.
$34/720
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You will also note that there are a lot of "New Arrival" tags in the
store - so many that I have not had the time to do the reviews. So I
apologize for being a little slow to the trigger, but for those who
just want to know what's new - here is a brief list of sakes that you
many not have tried yet. And yes - I will get the reviews up ASAP!
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Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi
From Hyogo Prefecture
Kimoto Junmai
SMV: -0.5 ~ +0.5 / Acidity: na
$38/720ml
Joppari
From Aomori Prefecture
Honjozo
SMV: +8 / Acidity 1.4
$6/180ml (comes in a can)
Minato Tsuchizaki "Harbor"
From Akita Prefecture
Futsushu Yamahai Nama Genshu
SMV: +1 / Acidity: 1.3
$45/720ml (comes in a can)
Nanbubijin Nama "Southern Beauty"
From Iwate Prefecture
Tokubetsu Junmai Nama
SMV: +4 / Acidity: 1.5
$22/720ml (comes in box)
Shimeharitsuru Jun "Pure"
From Niigata Prefecture
Junmai Ginjo
SMV: +5 / Acidity: 1,5
$32/720ml (comes in a box)
Chokaisan
From Akita Prefecture
Junmai Daiginjo
SMV: +1 / Acidity: 1.4 /Yeast: Flower Yeast ND-4
$50/720ml
Daishichi Kimoto Plum Sake
From Fukushima Prefecture
Plum Sake
SMV: na / Acidity: na
$52/720ml (comes in a box)
MoMo Nigori Sake
From Fukuoka Prefecture
Nigori
SMV: na / Acidity: na
$10/300ml
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You can review many of our sakes on our web site.
Our inventory list is here.
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True Sake Selects - Team True Sake Select Monthly Brews of Note
Welcome to "True Selects" - featured sakes that are selected and
championed by Miwa, Lynette, and Keiko - our three resident sake
studs. As we can only stock so many different brands of sake - think
limited space - this effort is a way to offer sakes that we wouldn't
usually carry. They will select by price-point, uniqueness,
availability, and other factors that make these selections unusual for
the store.
Miwa's Pick
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Ippin Junmai Ginjo
From Ibaraki Prefecture / Yoshikubo Brewery
Junmai Ginjo / SMV: +4 / Rice: Yamadanishiki milled to 50%
$32 / 720ml
This sake captured my attention (among others) at JFC Sake Expo last
month. It has just right amount of bouquet, a hint of "umami"
(yummy-ness) and good mouth feel. The brewery said they make their
sake to be enjoyed with food. Explore paring possibilities beyond
Japanese food.
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Keiko's Pick:
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Yuzu Omoi "Yuzu Dream"
From Kyoto Prefecture / Yuzu Sake
Well balanced blend of Junmai sake and 100% natural zest and juice
from yuzu (Japanese citrus.) A hint of meyer lemon is very
refreshing, and it is perfect for summer time. Great as an aperitif
or after-dinner sake.
$27 / 500ml
More from Keiko on her True Selection plus other citrusy brews:
Yuzu Omoi
I am very happy to introduce the sake calls "Yuzu Omoi" from Kyoto
Prefecture.
It's now mid-spring time and great to have nice sunny warm days with
nice refreshing sake to celebrate this season.
It's also great with chilled temperature and also good with on-the-
rock style too!
It is made with real squeezed yuzu juice and yuzu zest part.
They mix whole squeezed yuzu juice and Junmai Sake very well.
No artificial flavor or color, but you will see how savory yuzu
scent is!
In Japan, yuzu is sometimes used for Japanese dishes to add fresh
and crisp flavor. Yuzu scent has good relaxing effect for body and
has much vitamin C.
Please take a look this fresh sake at the store!
We have also some more refreshing, citrusy and fruity sakes in the
store.
The first one calls "Awasaki" is in the orange colored ground glass
bottle, has almost like classic mimosa.
It has mandarin orange flavor with gentle sparkness and, is
naturally sparkled in the bottle by fermentation.
The other one is "Ichinokura Himezen", "Princess Food" has Meyer
Lemonade flavor, is great with light dishes or dessert such as
cheesecake!
Those are very bright and refreshing and great as a aperitif or
dessert sake! Have a great mid-spring and sake time!
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Sake Bonus: $5 Off
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Kasumitsuru Yamahai Nama Genshu Honjozo
This is very robust and flavorful namazake with a hint of green
apple and honeydew melon. The sake drinks great straight or on the
rock-just for this sake.
Regular price: $32 / NOW $27
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Recession Buster: $30 off
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Daishichi Minowamon Junmai Daiginjo
If you've never tasted this masterpiece - there is now no excuse!
Regular price $80 / NOW $50 (save $30!!)
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Sake Events
June 13th: NA Sales 6th Annual Restaurant Show
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This event is for business-to-business only (not open to the public.)
Date: Sunday, June 13
Time: 9am - 3pm
Where: 301 E.Grand Avenue, South San Francisco,
What: 11 sake breweries plus many more food and restaurant supply
vendors
Details: N.A. Sales
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June 14: 2nd Annual Take no Tsuyu Pairing at Sozai
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Over the brief history of Sozai Restaurant, Take no Tsuyu (Bamboo
Tears) Junmai has become the "Sake of the Inner Sunset," a huge hit
with anyone seduced to try it by General Manager Gil Payne. It is
Sozai's top selling Sake, and Gil's absolute favorite sake to have
with Izakaya-style tapas!
To take advantage of Take no Tsuyu owner, Masao-san's brief visit to
the Bay Area, we once again have the honor of inviting you to
experience a sake pairing with five of his wonderful sakes with four
specially crafted tapas plates by Chef Mari. You'll have the added
benefit and honor of meeting him and hearing the story of this
outstanding kura from Yamagata-ken.
Date: Sunday, June 14th, 6 - 8 PM
Where: Sozai Restaurant and Sake Lounge at Irving@16th Ave.
How Much: $40
RSVP: Call Sozai at 415-681-7150
Details: Sozai Restaurant
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June 18th: MATCHA by Asian Art Museum
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MATCHA isn't just a mixer-it's what makes your visit to the Asian
Art Museum downright exhilarating. Celebrate the opening of Lord of
Samurai with a complementary tasting of "The Seven Spearsmen" by
Shichihonyari Brewery. Sake Samurai Flight of three sakes that
reference the intriguing history of the samurai is also available at
the museum's Asia Café through September. Miwa from True Sake will
be at the event to talk about the nuanced tastes and bouquets of
sake.
Date: Thursday, June 18
Time: 5pm - 9pm / 7pm: Sake Tasting at Ground Floor
Where: Asian Art Museum at 200 Larking Street, San Francisco
Admission: $10
Details: Asian Art Museum - Macha
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June 20th : Beau Timken Works At Sakaya in NYC
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Time: 3:30-4:30'ish
Where: Sakaya sake store in Manhattan
Sakaya Sake
Details: When in Rome do what the Romans do - sell some sake! Rick
has graciously invited me to come visit the store for the first, and
I said "visit" - no way I want to work. So I hopefully will be
selling some sake for Sakaya on the 20th. This would a be a good
chance to say hi to all of my East Coast readers.
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June 25th: 2009 Beer & Sake Festival in San Diego
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Presented by Japan Society of San Diego and Tijuana, this event also
features California State Regional Sushi Masters Competition.
Date: Thursday, June 25, 2009
Time: 6pm - 10pm
Venue: San Diego Marriott Del Mar
Tickets: $60 General; $40 for Japan Society Members
Purchase tickets at Japan Society
Phone: (858) 467-1727
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"Ask Beau" - "Will You Tell Your Readers About Me?"
Good people - It is and has always been my intention to alert you to
any and all sake news and news makers out there in the badlands known
as life. Lots of these newsmakers fall through the cracks or I simply
just do not hear about them. But if I do - I love sharing your eyes
with their efforts - all for the betterment of sake. I was recently
reminded of two unique "sake endeavors" worthy of your support and
attention.
And yes - these two great efforts are from your fellow True Sake
Newsletter readers. So always if you see something or are doing
something on your own - let me know and I will get you up as fast as
possible.
This from Steven P - "As I mentioned in my previous missive, I've been
putting together a sake podcast. Well, it's now complete, and our
first issue is up on the site. I would love to get your opinion on it
if you have the time. Check it out at The Sake Show. If you
think other sake enthusiasts would be interested, perhaps you can give
us a mention in your newsletter. I'll be sure to put a link to your
store!"
Voila!
This from Greg N - "I just wanted to say thank you for helping
organize and getting me into the sake brewing program with Daimon-san.
It really was a great week- I learned a lot. Daimon-san and his staff,
as you know, are really great people and I feel I made some new
friends. It has also helped prepare me for my new job: I will be
joining a sake brewery (Sawanohana) in Saku city, Nagano prefecture this fall as a
kurabito.
It is very exciting! The owner has agreed to take me on as staff and
will train me for the next 5 years or so, so I can thoroughly learn
the process of making sake. My plan is to open a brewery in Canada.
Wish me luck! - And yes, I will definitely keep in touch. I have also
started a
blog to write about my adventures trying to become a toji.
G - you do not need luck - you have sake on your side!
Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All other correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)
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The SECRET WORD
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those
who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note
for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake. And in this regard we typically select a sake
with a story, and this month's story is WATER. I wrote that in bold
because many folks are glancing directly at the bottom of this section
just to get the word. We do have a meaning for the SECRET WORD sakes!
We try to educate you to different brews and different nuances within
the sake industry. And yes this month's SWS is no exception, because
it represents how soft and light rice and water can be brewed. If you
are stuck on full-bodied Junmais or those raw and gripping namas -
take a break and taste a 13-14% alcohol sake that could be the
lightest and most gentle sake that you've ever tasted.
Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell
your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber,
always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD,
and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include
the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy
three other sakes.
This month's brew is a Junmai Daiginjo from Chiba called Hanasansui or
"Mountain Flower Water" - which is really watery in all of its gentle
goodness. We would usually sell this brew that comes in a box for
$44, but for you sake-jockeys we will part with all 720ml for $22.
And the SECRET WORD is...check your email inbox -
We only give out the
SECRET WORD in the mailed Newsletter! So
sign up for the Newsletter!
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Thank you for reading!
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Consider this...
If you do not have time to chill your brew using the fridge - which
decreases the temp one degree every seven minutes - then toss it in
the freezer for a short cycle. But do not forget about it! Some
bottles break when frozen and some don't - considering the 80% water
content error on the side of being safe!
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STORE HOURS
mon-sat:
12pm-7pm
sun:
11am-6pm
560 Hayes St., San Francisco, CA 94102
CONTACT US
415-355-9555
info @ truesake.com
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Sake - A Modern Guide
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