Dear Sake Drinker,
Welcome to the March Issue of America's sake-centric Newsletter. In
this issue discover the wonders of buying cases of sake, help
celebrate the 30th anniversary for a special Omachi sake, learn about
a blind tasting of Niigata sakes, read about all of the new sakes in
the store, and drool over a very exclusive aged nama sake that won't
be around for long!
In this issue:
Sake Thoughts - The "Case" For Selling More Sake
I rarely do this, but I will give you the point of this diatribe up
front so you do not have to dig and dig and dig to glean the meaning
of this wonderful story about those crazy cardboard contraptions that
hold sake bottles together in a cuddly dark little home with an
emphasis on non-clinking! The point is this - why in the heck don't
you buy a case of sake? You buy cases of wine? You buy cases of beer?
What gives?
Okay - back to the "wonderful story." I bought my first case of sake
roughly 13 years ago. Yup! A big and fun case of Kikusui Junmai Ginjo
with those cool light blue bottles that used to be frosted before they
became pounded blue glass. (I actually have two of these bottles in my
deep cooling fridge and I use the other now empty bottles with their
boxes for window displays at times.) But where in the world could one
buy a case of sake back in that day? There were no True Sakes to be
sure, so I had to beg and plead with my friend who owns a sushi
restaurant in North Beach! (Thank you K-san) I cannot remember what I
paid for those 12 bottles, but I bet it was steep on account of the
"restaurant pricing." (Thanks again K-san!) Nevertheless my enthusiasm
for sake was so keen and on account of the fact that I drank his whole
very solid menu from top to bottom and back numerous times, he did it
for me. (Thank you K-san!)
It feels great to walk into your home with 12 bottles of sake. Now
some of you may be saying "wait wait wait - that's an awful lot of
sake!" Others maybe saying "Sissy - you should have bought two cases -
wimp!" Well whatever you are saying or thinking remember I could have
consumed one of those bottles per month for the next year. 12 is not a
scary number - 12 weeks is - if my math is correct - one bottle per
week for 12 weeks! Now 12 is a scary number if you are speaking days!
(Unless of course you are attending Burning Man where cases of sake
come in handy!) Point being a case should not be considered a mountain
when in fact it is a big picture molehill.
Here's where the story gets more wonderful. Cases are just down right
wacky in the "Japanese Sake Biz." Why? Because - get this - a case is
not always 12! Over the years I had to learn the hard way. For example
I supplied sake to an extremely famous - well let's call him a sailor
as he just won the America's Cup - and wealthy individual for a large
event featuring some tremendous sakes. They ordered many cases. I
ordered cases from my distributors and two days before said event it
was made clear to me that the sakes that they wanted came in 6-bottle
cases when they and I wanted 12-bottle cases. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I
had to jump on the phone and drive to make up the difference. Lesson
number one! Then there was the day that I wanted to order a certain
300ml Junmai for the store and ordered a case - thinking 12 bottles.
Lo and behold this case came with 30 bottles in it. What? Lesson
Number 2!
Yes - the case of sake is an interesting case! One of my brewers in
Japan considers a case 10 bottles (for the historical measuring system
used to measure sake quantities). So we have 6-10-12-20-30 bottle
cases, and the result has been that I finally have learned to order by
bottle number and not cases! Hah! That said when you order your first
case we of course will make it 30! Joking. Think in terms of 6 for
Daiginjo and 12 for Ginjo and Junmai - in general! Why? Because many
Daiginjos come in beautiful individual boxes which take up a lot of
room!
Now here is where the story gets even more wonderfuller-er! And this
boarders on freakish! I'm man enough to admit when I am a freak. And
yes, when it comes to cases - I am a freak! Ummmm care to explain? Why
sure! Each case is packed at the brewery, usually within a room that
is sealed. Thus, the air of that room gets trapped in the box when
sealed. You getting me here? So roughly 40 days later when the case is
on the floor of True Sake and I use a box cutter to open the tape my
first action is to lift the lid and smell the contents! You bet. I
said it. I try to smell the breweries when I open each and every case.
Would I continue to do this if it didn't work? Not a chance as I look
pretty dorky with my head in a box. But it is absolutely true. I can
smell the breweries and each is distinctive. I especially like opening
the cases from kura that I have visited or worked at as these aromas
remind me of home. I smell the brewery within the case and then I
visualize where and who packs the cases. It's fun for me. An aromatic
reminder! Better yet though is when I have opened certain cases for
years - smelled the brewery and then get a chance to visit it! A
premonition of olfactory senses! I get weird looks from the owners
when they see me sniffing in their breweries - they usually get
defensive - so then I am forced to explain - they laugh and then call
me a freak!
Now the only problem with cases is when they don't work! And over the
years we have been delivered cases that appear to be solid only to
find out the bottles on the inside are bleeding to death - usually on
our carpet! This is actually a rare occurrence, and the fault is
definitely on the transporting of the brews, and not so much on the
case itself. Call it operator error. That said, the cases themselves
used to be very arty and reflected the killer packaging of the sakes
within. Logo cases are the best. But it seems that many brewers are
cutting back on the spending involved with branding their cases!
Perhaps if we sold more cases to customers then they would not have to
cut back. Thus in a sense, you - yes you - personally have ownership
in the fact that you are letting the brewers down by not buying cases
of sake. It's your damn fault! BUT it's never to late to help. You
still have time to save the case of sake business. Act fast!
Here now is the most wonderfullest-est part of the case for sake
story! If you buy a case of same sake from us we will take 10% right
off that order. Yes Siree! Essentially we pay the tax. Not bad for a
gift to yourself that can last 6 days or 12 weeks or 6 months however
you want to cut it! And trust me when I say that it is really fun to
open your own case and smell the brewery with your own nose all the
while saving 10%.
NOTE: We usually do not sit on cases of sake in our inventory. Thus,
it is wise to order in advance or stop by and place an order for a
future pick-up.
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Sake Summary - Ichishima Tasting at TS
On the night of February 25th we held a very small private sake
tasting for Kenji Ichishima who is the owner of Ichishima brewery in
Niigata. We did so for several reasons, but the best that I can offer
is that it was pay back for Kenji always looking out for me when I
attend my Sake Samurai events. Although younger than me, he has always
helped me from day one, and for that I am grateful. In this regard,
Miwa and I invited him to "our version of a sake tasting."
First let me point out that of all the sakes imported into the US, I
believe that the Ichishima brand has the largest selections of sakes
from one kura and the result is that hosting a tasting is easy because
it is so vertical! The sakes that we placed out were the Daiginjo,
Junmai Ginjo, Ginjo Koshu, Junmai, Junmai Genshu, Honjozo, and the
Futsu-shu. Kenji also offers several other brews from this portfolio
including competition Daiginjo's and lower alcohol fruitier Junmai.
That said he also has another importing and distribution channel with
several other sakes, which we carry.
But why in the world just taste seven sakes when we can play games? So
we decided to make it a blind tasting! But more than that we made it a
blind tasting that focused on "perceived value" as we had the tasters
pick their favorite brews and their perceived notion of the most and
least expensive sakes. And I must admit that the tasters did a
remarkable job! Three of the more talked about sakes were the
Daiginjo, Junmai Ginjo, and the Ginjo Koshu. Most tasters agreed that
the Daiginjo drank on the expensive side and that the Futsu-shu drank
on the least expensive side. Pretty interesting!
So who were the "tasters" and how did they get to taste for free? Well
let's just call them partners in our quest to understand sake. These
folks are veterans of our sake tastings and have grown into stellar
sake sleuths over the years. And again we are fortunate to have them
as customers. Thus we handpicked them to attend the event and
represent the Bay Area. If you are interested in becoming a person on
our radar then attend some tastings and tell us at the store that you
are interested.
I am pretty good at telling when an owner of brewery is just at an
event nodding and sort of taking things in. This was not the case with
Kenji Ichishima. I think that he totally got into the unique angle of
the tasting and was pretty blown away by our questions throughout the
evening. Again, I think that the peeps represented very well! Thank
you!
We currently have the Honjozo in stock if you would like to try. We
also have carried the Junmai Ginjo in the past and may do so again. I
would be interested in fleshing out the Koshu for our portfolio and we
carry his lower-alcohol Junmai called Karen Coy. But if you would like
to try any and all of these sakes please let us know and we will
obtain for you!
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Sake Reality - 30 Years of Omachi Junmai Daiginjo!
Granted this Newsletter does not have the same readership numbers as
the NY Times but we are close! And we get all sorts of eyeballs!
(Yours included - thank you). I am pretty proud that many brewers,
breweries and representatives of breweries keep us on their radar and
for that we are grateful. One such brewery has been a pal from day
one. The Tamanohikari brewery in Fushimi Kyoto has always been so very
supportive, and I am indebted to their friendship. Despite some recent
issues at the brewery involving management and focus, they continue to
make very wonderful and drinkable sake that speaks to western
drinkers! And yes they are "Omachi" pimps! Meaning they excel at the
use and production of sakes using this very unique and ancient rice
form.
It goes without saying that in each issue that I mention Tamanohikari
I get a quick "Thank you" or subtle reprimand if I get some facts
wrong - as in SMV or acidity listings from the "overseas eyes" that
belong to Kenzo Mabuchi, their General Manager of the export division.
After one such screw up where we mentioned the wrong size of their
"Reishu" or mini-tetra-pack sake that is meant to be frozen, I got a
quick hello email from Kenzo-san. He corrected me, and then I asked if
he would be so kind to write a quick "update" letter on the who and
whats are going on with Tamanohikari. He said "absolutely" and what
follows is a note from a good man and a great brewery:
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30th Anniversary of Brewing Tamanohikari Omachi Junmai Daiginjo
2010 is the 30th anniversary of Tamanohikari's brewing sake from
famous Omachi rice strain, the father of the majority of today's
brewing rices. Unlike Yamadanishiki, popular rice for high-grade
ginjo sake, which was deliberately bred by agriculturalists,
Omachi is an act of God, a natural variation discovered in Okayama
Prefecture more than century ago. Tamanohikari is one of the first
brewers to have revived Omachi after World War II.
Omachi is often called "maboroshi no sakamai", rare and sought-
after sake rice, because it is extremely hard work to grow. While
table-rice strains grow to between 28 and 35 inches, Omachi's
grows to a towering 47 inches (Yamadanishi about 40 inches) and is
easy to fall down by strong wind. Besides, Omachi is very soft and
difficult to use in brewing sake for many brewers.
In the hands of Tamanohikari, both skilled and experienced in the
use of the strain, however, Omachi can give a sake the depth and
fullness with an extra herbaceous dimension of wild flowers,
characteristics that take on fascinating complexity during aging.
Tamanohikari is using a rice traceability system with recordings
of all brewing process by each rice of individual growers in order
to make a stable and high quality sake. Since 1980 when
Tamanohikari started to use Omachi for brewing sake, Tamanohikari
has been recording all results of analysis of brown rice by
growers and all data regarding milling, washing, steaming, koji
producing, moto producing. This is to pursue how to make best sake
out of rice which is same Omachi but delicately varies by growers.
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Thank you Kenzo for your update and for all of those who would like to
try the Taminohikari Omachi Junmai Daiginjo stop on by the store and
bring $15/300ml or $34/720ml - likewise you can also try their Junmai
Ginjo 1.8L - their Yamahai Junmai Ginjo and their 300ml tetra-pack
Junmai Ginjo for freezing.
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Tamanohikari "Brilliant Jade"
From Kyoto Prefecture, Junmai Dai Ginjo
SMV: +3.5 Acidity: 1.7
This is a very important Dai Ginjo to explore as this brewery uses
the famous Omachi rice strain, the father of the majority of
today's brewing rices. The nose, like its name, is indeed
brilliant, filled with all sorts of peach, apple and pear scents.
Omachi rice yields deep and rich flavors and this does not
disappoint; you'll taste nuts and bananas to pears and cooked
coconut meat. The viscous mouth-feel is chewy and plump. Despite
an unmistakable fruitiness, the fluid actually ends with dryness
in the back of the throat.
WORD: Pear
WINE: Cabernets/White Burgundy
BEER: Pilsners/Mild stouts
FOODS: Roasted fowl, dim sum, game, soups and patés.
$15/300ml or $34/720ml
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True Sake In The News - Beverage Media
Jim Clark takes an honest look at the sake industry and questions
several key figures about the current condition and future of all
things sake. A good piece that goes to the source.
BREAKING BARRIERS -
Sake redefined
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Sake Opportunity - Working in the Sake Industry
Joto Sake LLC (www.jotosake.com), a leading sake importer, is
hiring a sales manager for Southern California, based in the Los
Angeles Area. We are looking for someone who is passionate about sake
and has experience in sales, preferably in the food and beverage
industry. Japanese language skills are a plus but not required. The
candidate must live in the LA area and know its restaurant scene.
Please send resumes to Henry Sidel at
hsidel@jotosake.com.
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Sake Events - April 9th Sake Fever in Vegas
April 9th - Sake Fever Tasting For Bonzai Beverage Sakes In Las Vegas
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LAS VEGAS, Nevada - Banzai Beverage Company is creating a
momentous sake party at the Palms Hotel on April 9, 2010 from 7 to
10pm. They will be hosting 15 of Japan's most celebrated brew
masters presenting over 200 of the of the world's finest sakes
ever to grace our shores.
Welcome to Sake Fever! This will be world's largest sake event
and will be open to the public so join us poolside at the Palms
Hotel and be ready for an adventure. The event is in conjunction
with the 36th annual UNLVino 2010 taking place in the city over
the weekend. Tickets for Sake Fever are $50 in advance and $75 at
the door.
For tickets, go to
UNLVino@southernwine.com
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New Store Arrivals - Tamagawa, Kasumi Tsuru, Gassanryu, Eiko Fuji and
Spring Namas Galore
Okay people! You have patiently waited for the seasonal release of
fresh big and bold spring nama-zakes. And they are now here! BUT they
are going fast - very fast! The first flight includes Nama-zakes from
Harushika, Shutendouji, Kamikokoro, and Ichinokura breweries. Look for
large flavors galore and taste the freshness. Those looking for tight,
clean and crisp flavors with a tingle of citrus jump on the Harushika.
If you like it fruity but dry and large with a lot of attitude grab a
bottle of the Shutendouji "oh oni" - Big Devil. Thinking about a
layered and smooth nama with a solid mouthfeel and a hint of fruity
sweetness say hello to the Kamikokoro. Lastly, those wanting to
explore the immense and dry side of nigori sake try out the
Ichinokura, which is dry, crisp and a whopping 19% alcohol.
Again - please note that these sakes are extremely limited and will
only be on the shelves for a short while. So get 'em while you can,
because it will be another long year before they come back. And
lastly, I have made a conscious decision to not apply my specific
reviews for these sakes in the this issue as - after so many years of
doing - I have come to realize that nama-zake shifts and changes in
the bottle at a far greater rate than pasteurized sakes. This means
that to write the best review I would have to update it almost weekly.
Some of these sakes will indeed taste different by the time they leave
the store and that is the way of the nama world!
I am super and extremely pleased to offer a killer Daiginjo from
Philip Harper - O ye of sake brewing lore! This brew drinks far more
ritzy than its price! I'm extremely proud of PH's efforts over the
years and I look forward to you all trying his wares! You will not be
disappointed!
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Tamagawa "Gold Medal"
From Kyoto Prefecture. Daiginjo
SMV: +4 Acidity: 1.6
The nose on this competition-style Daiginjo is plump with
strawberry, melon, Concord grape, peach, sweet rice, and powder
sugar aromas. This is a wonderful "wine drinkers" Daiginjo with
fruit and acidity pushed by a gentle flintiness that melds
minerality with apple and white peach hues. Round and soft with
layers of flavors that are extremely well balanced on a solid
body that becomes slightly crisper as the temperature warms in
the glass. Look for honeydew licks and a very unique mineral
personality that emerges in a larger glass, which sets this brew
apart. The best part - this tremendous sake is made by my friend
Philip Harper - the first gaijin head brewer!
WORD: Deep
WINE: Flinty reds/ crisp whites
BEER: Ales
FOODS: Shellfish, sushi/sashimi, lightly seared white fish, cold chicken.
$54/720ml
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Kasami Tsuru "Crane of Kasumi"
From Hyogo Prefecture. Yamahai Shiboritate Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu.
SMV: +3.5 Acidity: 2.3
The nose on this super nama is packed with blueberry, melon, wet
grass, and syrupy elements. This is a plump and fatty raw sake
loaded with ripe and juicy flavors. In a word - it is immense,
but never fear because if you don't like massive fruit and
acidity rushes then add an ice-cube or enjoy day after day for
up to a week. Hidden amongst the 20% alcohol content is a very
distinctive and chewy brew that has powder sugar, honeydew,
green grape, and honey flavors with hints of semi-bitter
elements that drink better than they sound!
WORD: Plump
WINE: Zins/Huge Chardonnays
BEER: Sweet ales
FOODS: Will douse all spices, plays with salty things on sticks, and works with fruit and cheese plates.
$35/720ml
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Gassanryu "Gokugetsu"
From Yamagata Prefecture. Junmai Daiginjo.
SMV: +1 Acidity: 1.4
This single-pasteurized sake has a very sneaky nose filled with
rose pedals, purple grapes, and blueberry elements. Ahhhh smooth
and bright! A very unique combination in the sake world. This is
a chewy and viscous sake with a gentle tingle that drinks more
like a pure nama or unpasteurized sake with a crispness that
highlights all of the fruit flavors. A "one of those" sakes that
makes one wonder how rice and water can taste like all of these
fruity and semi-sweet elements. In a word - a very smart
Daiginjo with ripe melon and berry elements that flashes across
the palate in a bright fluid that zings flavor and fun!
WORD: Bright
WINE: Zesty reds/ Crisp whites
BEER: Pilsners
FOODS: Sushi/sashimi, grilled white fish, oysters, and shellfish.
$42/720ml
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Eiko Fuji "Glorious Mt. Fuji"
From Yamagata Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo Nama Chozo.
SMV: +3 Acidity: 1.2
The aroma profile on this single pasteurized sake has a suave
collection of grape skin, papaya, melon, and peach elements.
This is a very elegant, clean, and flavorful sake that has semi-
chewy layers of flavors that bounce between melon, peach and
blueberry- floating on a mineral water quality. It's a mouthful
of flavor with a soft and round finish that ends quickly for so
many faces of fruit and fun. In a word this sake is a very good
example of a Ginjo in the raw form. For the very "in-tune" this
sake used to be a full-nama, but the brewers feel that a single
heating makes this sake drink more balanced and stable and we
agree. P.S. A good brew for warming but we didn't say that!
WORD: Elegant
WINE: Complex reds/ Minerally whites
BEER: Clean Ales
FOODS: Shellfish, grilled shrimps, lightly flavored pasta, cold chicken, and sushi.
$49/720ml
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You can review many of our sakes on our web site.
Our inventory list is here.
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True Sake Selects - Team True Sake Select Monthly Brews of Note
Lynette's Pick:
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Kikusui Junmai Dai Ginjo
Rice Polishing Ratio: 40%
SMV: +3
Acidity: 1.3
Prefecture: Niigata
My pick of the month, Kikusui Junmai Dai Ginjo, is actually a
sake I have never been able to try before, although I have seen
it displayed on the True Sake light shelf for years! Many
people have tried their light, clean Junmai Ginjo version, as
well as their big, semi sweet $5 nama genshu honjozo cans. Both
are very popular. I've heard many great things about the Dai
Ginjo version as well, so I thought I'd bring it in for everyone
to try! Made with Kikusui rice and underground water from the
Kaji River (soft water)
$48 (720ml)
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Keiko's Pick:
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Chiyomosubi "Nezumiotoko" One Cup
From Tottori Prefecture. Junmai Ginjo.
"Nezumiotoko" one cup is one of Kitaro series one cups. Full
ripe strawberry layer with hint of steamed rice plumpness is
melting on a pallet. Gentle powdery texture has similar feeling
as fresh spring breeze. Perfect with slightly chilled
temperature. Nice smooth finish. I like Kitaro a lot.
Nezumiotoko has similar smooth texture as kitaro.
$8 (180ml)
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Miwa Miwa - Sake Thoughts From A Sake Explorer
This is the newest addition to the True Sake Newsletter! Did you know
the word "Miwa" was an ancient name for sake? You do now! So please
enjoy "Sake Thoughts" from Miwa the manager and new Partner of True
Sake.
SAKE and TEMPERATURE
The temperature at which to drink sake is a frequently asked question
in the store. Many people have had hot sake that is harsh, and their
perception of okan-zake (warm sake) is ruined forever. On the other
hand, some say "premium sake" is only drunk cold. The good news is
that sake (Nihon-shu) is a rare alcoholic beverage: it can be
enjoyable cold, hot, and everything in between.
Historically speaking, sake has always been consumed at different
temperatures. During the mid Heian period (794-1185), sake was said to
be heated directly in a copper pot. In the mid Edo period (1603-1867),
iron pots, specifically made to warm sake, were introduced. During
this period, sake was enjoyed warm through the fall and winter months.
By the late Edo period, however, sake was consumed warm throughout the
year.
Moving fast forward, there are styles of sake made today that did not
exist back then. The aromatic and fruitier sake that is made with
highly polished rice and is fermented at low temperatures, know as
Ginjo-shu. (Here, Ginjo-shu is a sort of all inclusive term that
includes Junmai Daiginjo, Daiginjo, and Junmai Ginjo.) Most of the
Ginjo-style sake and nama-zake (unpasteurized sake) are meant to be
served chilled. However, there are always exceptions. You can have a
great warm daiginjo to complex warm nama-zake, etc.
When customers ask for sake that is good for warming, we tend to
suggest Junmai-style. They are more rice-like, savory, creamy or
earthy. In my humble understanding, Junmai tends to include more
lactic and succinic acids (while malic and citiric acids are in Ginjo-
style.) These become enhanced and evolve as flavor elements while the
sake warms up. But again, not all Junmai are created equal. Some of
them do better in the cold zone.
For seasoned sake tasters, you all know through your experience that
there are "sweet temperature spots"-as Beau calls it-for each sake.
For example, flavors of certain sake blossom when it goes from
refrigerator-cold to slightly-chilled or to comfy warm. For those of
you who are relatively new to sake, I highly recommend going outside
your comfort zone and explore sake at different temperatures. This
will open up a whole new world for those of you who have never tried
it.
Ten basic temperature zones are rather poetically named in the world
of Ninhon-shu (sake). Folks in the sake business know these terms, but
I must admit, sometimes I have hard time recalling all the terms in
the right order. I thought it would be good "sake homework" to review
these terms, learn to convert Celsius and Fahrenheit on the fly (when
you cannot find your smart phone) and noting how the sake changes
between these hot and cold zones.
Temperatures and Terms:
My loose translation are in ( ).
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55C / 131F: Tobikiri-kan ("jumping" hot)
50C / 122F: Atsu-kan (hot)
45C / 113F: Jo-kan (warm)
40C / 104F: Nuru-kan (luke warm)
35C / 95F: Hitohahda-kan (skin warm)
30C / 86F: Hinata-kan (sunshine warm)
21C / 60F: The human tongue is supposed to be at its most sensitive, being able to detect many taste components.
20C / 60F: Jo-onn (room temperature) - or should I say San Francisco summer temp?
15C / 59F: Suzu-hie (cool chill)
10C / 50F: Hana-hie (flower chill) - why flower? I need to investigate.
5C / 41F: Yuki-hie (snow chill)
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Conversion:
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Celsius (C) = (F-32) x 0.55
Fahrenheit (F) = 1.8 x C + 32
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Flavor Changes:
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My homework sake tonight is Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai (Ishikawa
prefecture), which Beau opened the night before. The sake is known
to be big, rustic, and hearty: classic Ishikawa-style. I decided
to taste the sake at 5C degree increments, from cold to hot and to
note my very first impression in just a few words.
-5C / 23F: Beautiful liquid candy. (Note: this is way off of the
proper serving temperature.)
0C / 32F: Sour, cooked sugar, reminds me of the color amber.
Coffee-like after taste with a syrup-like texture. (Note: this is
still off of proper serving temperature.)
5C / 41F: Sweet and sour, acidity lingers and turned into "kire",
a sense of dry finish.
10C / 50F: Mineral! Salt-like as in a grain of sea salt in fancy
hand-made caramel candy.
15C / 59F: Still sweet but in ume-shu (plum sake) way, and
bitterness emerges as a new element.
20C / 60F: Bright acidity as in high % cocoa chocolate, on the
verge of being fruity, like sipping flat cream soda with a thick
slice of lemon.
25C / 77F: Like high acidity coffee with cream, the texture is
gentle for the first time, the acidity is well wrapped in the
texture.
30C / 86F: Trace of melon with lemon wedge, like eating tangy
sorbet at room temperature, sake feels most acidic so far.
35C / 95F: Bright (from acidity) and smooth at the same time, like
sweet grapefruit.
40C / 104F: Smooth, almost transparent, and bitterness is gone.
Acidity gives crispness yet delicate layer to the taste, a feeling
of hollowness follows after a sip. Sake feels light & airy.
45C /113F: Super bright, acidity is very pronounced. Sweet and
sour. Much lighter texture compared to 5~10C zones. Feels like
hot lemonade.
50C / 122F: Like having lemon herbal tea with a pinch of sugar.
55C / 131F: Texture is very light. Acidity and sweetness are now
suppressed, and rice taste is back.
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Conclusion:
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Well, this was fun. I was pleasantly surprised by the mineral
tones at 10C, and my favorite temperature was 40C. This was first
time I tasted one sake in so many different ways. It takes some
time, and you may consume more sake than you intended, but the
outcome is worthy. So, get your sake thermometer out and find your
sweet spot!
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"Ask Beau" - "Harushika Aged Nama - How did you get that?"
This question came to me not in email form but voiced at True Sake,
and I thought that it would make a good question. I wrote a piece
about "Exclusive Sakes" way back when and this question dovetails off
of that - I think! In essence, I once took pride in identifying sakes
in Japan that I would then offer "exclusively" at True Sake. I thought
this was cool, but really it wasn't because at the end of the day I
want my importers and especially my brewers to make more money. So I
shied away from Exclusive Sakes and asked those concerned to allow
everybody to sell the sakes that I had identified.
But, because of the nature of the beast sometimes there is such a
limited quantity available that the importer only wants True Sake to
carry a brew that I "found." It happens on occasion, and it just
happened again.
Several years back I was a judge for the US National Sake Appraisals
in Hawaii. I tasted a ton of brews that week and one certain sake
stuck with me. Amongst a thousand great sakes, one just stood out
amongst the pack. This usually happens at my tasting/judging gigs like
that, but this time I did something about it. I went to the importer
and said "Man you have a great sake within your realm, and I would
love to sell it at True Sake." He then procured several sample bottles
of the sake and we were off to the races. When we tasted the sake
together it was a little different than the effort that I judged, but
was still very outstanding. (The label was different also, but we were
told by the brewery that it was the same Junmai Ginjo Genshu). I will
be honest and say that I enjoyed the "version" from Hawaii a little
more - it had more body and presence.
Fast forward to last week when we were told that the sake had arrived
and was on the docks. We were going to get the sake in a couple of
days! I was stoked. On the day that it arrived the surprises began.
First the sake had a different label (third version!). It then had a
special added insignia for the International Wine Challenge (another
event that I have been a judge for and will be again this May) on the
side of the label. Huh? What's going on here? Then - there it was -
the kanji for Nama sake. It was nama? Double huh? The previous
versions had not been nama (Unpasteurized). But wait! It didn't stop
there! Also on the label was the fact this particular nama had been
cold aged for 210 days! Triple huh? AWESOME! I LOVE IT! I was so
stoked to read this, and called the importer immediately and he was
flabbergasted! "Huh?" He said he would call the brewery immediately -
he did and they did! They sent my brew in a very special and unique
form! Soooooooo Cool!
Now let me perfectly frank! (I always am when it comes to sake!) I
think this brew is beyond the realm for this brewery! Meaning I never
expected that they could produce such a powerhouse sake. Harushika is
a great sake brewery, and I love their efforts. We sell a lot of their
sake - very proudly! But this baby is the cream of the crop! Over the
top - just simply superb sake. At the moment we have their Spring
release Junmai Ginjo nama at the store to go hand in hand with their
extremely popular Junmai Daiginjo and of course their ultra popular
sparking sake called Tokimeki.
Now here's the rub! We only have five cases and when these babies are
gone - they are gone! (I may even be a big pig and may buy a case for
myself - may want to age a couple even longer to see what happens.) So
if you want to taste a truly unique and impressive sake get on this
immediately! Herewith are my notes on this spectacular sake:
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Harushika "Spring Deer"
From Nara Prefecture. Nama Junmai Ginjo Genshu (Aged Nama).
SMV: -5 Acidity: 2.0 Yeast: Harushika #6
The aroma profile on this "aged unpasteurized" sake that is
EXCLUSIVE to True Sake is flush with ripe fruit tones such as
strawberry, mango, grape, and floral elements. Okay folks! This is
the round, soft, super smooth fruit bomb sake that you have been
looking for. A truly unique brew that is so velvety and ripe with
explosive fruity flavors such as strawberry and honeydew that you
would think it needs a huge acidity push - but none exists. Soft
ripe fruit on a honey flavored gooey fluid. Fat, smooth and
friendly - so drinkable with so much personality perhaps it is the
210 days of aging for this raw sake. Crazy! and 17% alc to boot!
WORD: Juicy
WINE: Ripe reds/ bright whites
BEER: Sweet Belgian Ales
FOODS: Spicy and savory fare, American sushi, cheese and fruit dishes.
$45/720ml
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Please send your sake specific questions to
askbeau2 @ truesake.com. (This
address is not for general questions and I only review the questions
once per month. All other correspondence should use
info @ truesake.com.)
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The SECRET WORD
Ah, at last we have reached the end of this Newsletter and that of
course means that we have come to the now-famous SECRET WORD. To those
who are new the SECRET WORD is a chance for you to try a sake of note
for half of that sake's original price. Just for reading this
Newsletter. It is our way of saying thank you for trying to understand
the wonders of sake.
Please remember the rules: only one bottle per reader, and don't tell
your buddy at the moment if he/she isn't a Newsletter subscriber,
always use a hushed or secret agent voice when saying the SECRET WORD,
and lastly for those who have their sakes shipped we can only include
the SECRET WORD sake in a four-pack purchase - meaning you must buy
three other sakes.
This month's sake is Umekanon plum sake. It is made with Junmai sake
and sulfate-free. Perfect afternoon sake for spring time. Normally
we sell it for $30 but for you sake jockeys we will part with this
500ml for $15!
And the SECRET WORD is...check your email inbox -
We only give out the
SECRET WORD in the mailed Newsletter! So
sign up for the Newsletter!
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Thank you for reading!
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Consider this...
A mini "home brewing" boom has been occurring in the sake world
outside of Japan. Many beer makers are trying their hand at producing
sake. More and more ingredients are becoming available, and this
extremely difficult "process" called sake making is happening all
throughout the US.
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STORE HOURS
mon-sat:
12pm-7pm
sun:
11am-6pm
560 Hayes St., San Francisco, CA 94102
CONTACT US
415-355-9555
info @ truesake.com
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Sake - A Modern Guide
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