Sake Directions – Our True Friend Stuart Morris Is Taking Sake To New Markets
We have been doing this thing called sake for a very long time. Heck, this is our 249th consecutive monthly Newsletter—we’ve never missed a month! We have seen good times and sadly we have seen some very dark times. But through the highs and lows we’ve made some incredible friendships that basically revolve around sake and the betterment of sake.
One such friendship that has seen many permutations is with a super sake soul named Stuart Morris, who has dedicated his life to sake and the advancement of this wonderful libation. Stuart has worn many different sake hats in the last decade, and now he comes to the True Sake Newsletter again wearing another hat and one that I think is the best looking on him. Stuart has gone from educating, promoting, hand selling, making, and running sake programs to hand brewing his own brand from Yamagata Prefecture. And in a small way True Sake has been with him on his whole journey in little capacities that keeps us connected in sake.
Stuart will be at True Sake on Saturday May 10th to pour his line of Hachidori sake to you our True Sake Newsletter readers, and even though we don’t carry all of his offerings, we will have them available to purchase on Saturday and thereafter. In this light, Stuart has written reviews that look very familiar (yes, he is a religious True Sake Newsletter reader and knows about our style of reviews) for each of his three products in his words. Please join us to taste his line-up and please enjoy in his words the story of Hachidori.
“Meet Hachidori - A Story of Craft, Culture, and the Courage to Do Things Differently”
Hachidori is a new voice in the world of premium Sake—crafted with reverence for tradition, yet unafraid to challenge expectations. The name Hachidori, meaning “hummingbird” in Japanese, represents resilience, focus, and grace—qualities that define both the spirit of the brand and the journey behind it.
At Hachidori, we produce three distinct expressions—Junmai, Junmai Ginjo, and Daiginjo—each brewed in Yamagata Prefecture, Japan, with a deep respect for terroir, technique, and time. These are Sake born of craftsmanship and curiosity, made for those who seek more from every sip.
When John Anthony Truchard set out to bring premium Sake to the U.S., he knew it couldn’t be just any Sake—it had to be the right Sake. Crafted with intention, grounded in tradition, and guided by someone who not only understood its complexity, but lived and breathed it.
That person was Stuart Morris.
A Boston native turned Sake Master, Stuart’s journey is as unconventional as it is inspiring. From the sushi bars of the U.S. Virgin Islands to the heart of Japan’s storied Sake regions, he has spent over 25 years immersed in the craft. In a world where tradition runs deep, Stuart earned his stripes—cleaning tanks, sleeping on brewery floors, and eventually, apprenticing under the legendary Masanobu Shindo of Shindo Brewery in Yamagata. Today, he is one of only a few non-Japanese Sake Masters to have earned the right to brew at this level in Japan.
Why Yamagata?
Nestled in the snowy mountains of northern Japan, Yamagata Prefecture is Japan’s first and only Geographical Indication (GI) for Sake. Known for its high-elevation climate, pristine water, and reverence for tradition, it’s a place where craftsmanship is everything. Shindo Shuzo, led by 10th-generation Toji Masanobu Shindo, is a place where the past and present converge—and where Hachidori Sake comes to life.
Each bottle is a collaboration between place, people, and rice. And that last element—rice—is more than just a base ingredient. It’s the soul of the Sake. The type of rice, how much it’s polished, and how it’s treated in fermentation all deeply affect the resulting aroma, flavor, and texture.
Let’s explore how each expression of Hachidori brings this to life.
From Yamagata Prefecture | SMV: +1 | Rice: Dewa no Sato (Polished to 70%)
This Junmai is Stuart’s ode to approachability and balance. Crafted with Dewa no Sato, a local Yamagata rice developed specifically for Sake brewing, this bottle brings out bright, juicy fruit and layered umami. Dewa no Sato has a high starch concentration at its core, allowing for clean, controlled fermentations and a light, vibrant profile. On the nose, expect green apples, citrus, melon, and fresh rice. On the palate, it’s crisp and lively, with flavors of cucumber, lemon zest, papaya, and a dry umami mid-palate that finishes clean. It’s a perfect gate-way for new Sake drinkers and a refreshing change of pace for wine lovers. WORD: Approachable WINE: New-world sparkling, bright summer whites BEER: Rice lager, fruit beers FOODS: Sashimi, ceviche, lemony risotto, arugula salad, Peruvian escabeche
From Yamagata Prefecture | SMV: ±0 | Rice: Yamada Nishiki (Polished to 60%)
Known as the “King of Sake Rice,” Yamada Nishiki is prized for its large grain and soft texture. Its starchy center and low protein content allow for precise fermentation, drawing out elegance and expressive aromatics. In Stuart’s hands, it becomes a layered, aromatic Junmai Ginjo that’s both savory and subtly sweet. You’ll find notes of honeydew, sweet raspberry, green banana, and jasmine tea. With a dry finish and lifted acidity, this Sake bridges the gap between nuance and drinkability—perfect for curious palates ready to explore more depth. WORD: Fascinating WINE: Anything natty BEER: Farmhouse, hazy IPA, Saison FOODS: Yakitori, burrata with tomatoes, roasted mackerel, miso-grilled eggplant, Arabic mezze
From Yamagata Prefecture | SMV: +3 | Rice: Omachi (Polished to 40%)
Omachi is Japan’s oldest heirloom Sake rice, known for producing rich, full-bodied, and complex Sake. Unlike Yamada Nishiki’s refined clarity, Omachi offers depth, a touch of earthiness, and softer acidity, making it ideal for a luxurious Daiginjo. Polished down to just 40%, this Sake showcases what Omachi does best: lush tree fruits, creamy melon, and a toasted, nutty backdrop. It’s refined yet powerful, with a long finish and structure that stands up to a wide range of dishes—from tempura to Thai curry. WORD: Refined WINE: White Burgundy, Blanc de Noirs, cool-climate Pinot Noir BEER: Doppelbock, high-end ales FOODS: Sushi, donburi, kaiseki courses, cacio e pepe, Korean fried chicken, prosciutto with melon
Hachidori means “hummingbird” in Japanese—a nod to resilience, focus, and grace.
That spirit lives in every bottle. From Stuart’s journey to Yamagata’s legacy, from the rice grain to your glass—this is Sake made with purpose, precision, and passion.