Taste with KJ – Muroka Nama Genshu + Hawaiian Cuisine
True Sake is an incredibly fun place to work in case anyone was wondering! So fun in fact, that when we do a great job, we ultimately get rewarded for it! Whether it's our hard work on tasting multiple times a week, hand-selling nihonshu to newbies or packing mountains of boxes shipped out to connoisseurs around the country; sometimes we’ll get an extra special experience for spreading the sake word. This time it was a staff appreciation party at Pa’ina, a Hawaiian restaurant and venue in the heart of Japantown.
A hub of the Japantown community
My other boss/educational collaborator Jesse Pugach from Fifth Taste caught wind of our celebration and kindly gifted us a bottle of Kuheiji Crémant de Bourgogne. Kuheiji, a famous brand made by Banjo Jozo brewery, is the greatest representation of sake and wine crossover to date. They actually own grape vineyards in Burgundy, France! While I am the sake and wine person in our group, this brand is distinctly Team Sake first and foremost, so to start with a little bubbly from Burgundy felt like a handshake between two cultures and acknowledgement of my two life loves. Even our boss Beau commented, ‘Does this wine exude bruised apple notes?’ In my opinion, his comment was his discreet way of expressing it was a great quality sparkling wine.
Thanks for opening the bottle Mei!
Mei did the honors of opening the bottle and only an angel’s fart was shed when popping the cork (she would have passed her Certified Sommelier exam for sure!). We also managed to book our hangout on what would be the last Warriors game of the season. Steph Curry was injured and he didn’t look too thrilled from the sidelines. Beyond it being a tough game, there was excitement in the air as it started, which prompted me and only me to jump into the sports vibe with a draft beer. I ordered Allagash White, if you’re curious.
*Disclaimer: The first two sake were gifts! Only the Born is available at True Sake.
When I heard about our special night, I thought it would be the perfect opportunity for all of us to taste together and figure out a few bangin’ Hawaiian pairings. The trouble was finding a sake that could stand up to all the various flavors and textures of famous Hawaiian dishes, while also being delicate enough for things like poke or shellfish. Over much deliberation, bossman Beau-san came up with the genius idea to pair with Born Junmai Daiginjo Muroka Nama Genshu (or Born MNG for short). As you can see, we had some treasured gifts that were given to us as a team and even with such incredible competition, the MNG was a unanimous win. Born stole the show for best pairing partner with Hawaiian food EVER!
Now let’s get into it!
The brand Born is made by Katokichibee Shoten located in Fukui Prefecture. All of their products are incredible, but the Born MNG is a True Sake icon. It is a Junmai Daiginjo, representing the highest category of premium sake, yet it's a yin/yang experience teetering from elegant and slightly fruity to deep, umami-rich and boozy. The sake showed a bit of vanilla bean, honeydew and honeycomb mixed with dense savory flavors that were hard to pinpoint. The entire flavor profile was supported by a solid 17% abv.
Our first pairing was with decadent poke nachos topped with tuna, guacamole, sriracha, citrus aioli, serrano peppers, scallions and nori. This is fusion at its best, incorporating elements of Japanese and Mexican cuisine into the mix. With this dish, the fact that Born is a genshu allowed the sharp alcohol to bring out the spicy mayo flavors. It heightened the heat of the dish in a tactile, almost ballsy way. The spice was further enhanced with freshly sliced serranos which then exacerbated the entire experience. One serrano-heavy bite paired with the genshu and your mouth might hate you for at least a minute and a half. It was a fantastic pairing without the fresh peppers, so one idea would be to ask for the serranos on the side or try to avoid them in between sake sips. Beau was a major fan of this pairing and said the sake covers the entire flavor of the nacho combination, but that it HAS to be ice cold to work.
Just after our heated debate on this pairing, someone at the table conveniently knocked their glass of Born all over the last remaining poke nachos. I figured, what the hell… I’m doing an article, so let’s try this. The Born doused poke nachos were AWESOME! The fried tortilla and the high alcohol were such a nice match. It was deeply boozy. I consider this pairing a little masochistic. To be nicer, we can call it the ‘Good and Evil.’ Born soaked tortilla chips could make a very successful bar snack I think.
Next we enjoyed a duo of Pa’ina wings, one covered with cilantro and parmesan cheese with a squeeze of lime, the other had a sweet chili glaze with scallions. Neither of these dishes made the Born taste any better and vice versa. The cilantro wings were especially challenging. The booze and the pungent, almost bright herbal aroma were off-putting together. Sake usually doesn’t fight with food, but the cilantro created tasting issues here. The parmesan was wonderful with the sake, but it was very difficult to separate the two as they were combined as a coating on the wing. Moving on…
One of the most solid pairings of the evening was the lo mein style garlic ‘noodz’ made with shoyu, nori, garlic and butter. It drank very rich and satisfying. The overcompensating savory nature of sautéed garlic created a pillow in which the sake laid comfortably. The power of Born’s flavor profile matched the garlic and fat head on. Mei agreed that this was an A+ pairing and Chris said the umami of both the sake and noodles became enhanced when paired together. The entire team was on board with this pairing and we can confidently call this a super tasty umami bomb!
We had lots of other dishes to explore, including garlic butter shrimp with oyster sauce, mochiko chicken made with a sweet rice flour coating, kimchi fried rice, chorizo fried rice, Kalbi short ribs and Kalua pork fries. Believe or not, the least effective pairing was the kimchi fried rice. The acidity and slight heat from the chili flakes didn’t make the sake tasting any better and vice versa. Some interesting things happened with the rest of the dishes. With the garlic shrimp, a bright touch of coconut emerged from the ether. The alcohol present gave a cut to the finish and provided a depth of flavor that didn’t fight with the garlic.
Mochiko chicken was even better! It was perfectly balanced while also being a contrast pairing. The sweet mochi flour made the fried chicken thighs unctuous and crispy at the same time, while the fats from the coating and thighs gave the Born something to slice through on the palate. The additional furikake and aioli made this pairing one of the highlights of the night.
The Kalbi short rib with ssamjang (Korean chili paste) was predictably delicious, both toothsome and chewy. The powerful flavors of the ssamjang (soybeans, chili paste, sesame oil) rode right alongside the Born and a sweetness emerged between the two that emulated a sweet & savory sauce.
My coworkers had a blast with the chorizo fried rice and the Kalua pork fries. Chris really enjoyed the rice with the genshu. He said the dish softened the Born and that a sweetness and boozy heat came out at the end. The umami and salt amplified the sake in a good way. Mei is a huge fan of Kalua pork and remembered Pa’ina having poutine-like pork fries option on the menu. They had taken it off the menu months prior, but the chefs were kind enough to whip it up for us. The Kalua fries had pork, but also melted cheddar sauce, hot peppers, sour cream and pickled onions. The starch of the french fries made the sake a little more umami and a little more sweet. Beau said the starch on starch play was outstanding. The Kalua fries were near perfect with the creamy Born, whose rich texture was not distracted by alcohol this time. The high fat content of this dish subdued Born into submission.
The magic of this tasting experiment was the revelation that Born can pair with not only a wide range of Hawaiian foods, but that fusion and cuisines based in sweet and savory elements with powerful bases like garlic and hot chili can stand up to the challenge. At Pa’ina, the garlic noodz, fried mochiko chicken thighs and Kalua pork fries were hands down the best pairings of our tasting adventure.
Hawaii and sake does not end with Born MNG and Pa’ina. With a large Japanese population and the the popularity of sake growing, sake businesses are emerging on these remote islands which include a premium sake shop and even a full-fledged brewery!
If you are ever in Hawaii proper, don’t miss a visit to The Sake Shop in Honolulu. Say hi to the kind proprietors Nadine, Malcolm and Malia! They have an inspired, extensive collection and have been open for over a decade, creating a strong community of sake lovers in Oahu and beyond.
Another Hawaiian must is Islander Sake Brewery. Located on the Big Island, Islander opened in early 2020 and is the first sake brewery in Hawaii in over 30 years. They specialize in premium namazake, some with fruit and coffee additions as well. Located on the Hapuna Golf Course, reservations for tastings and visits can be made on their website. They also run Engawa, an omakase restaurant on the property.
For those of you lucky enough to travel to Hawaii and experience sake on the islands, good for you! For the rest of us... please enjoy Hawaiian cuisine and community at Pa’ina, perhaps with poke nachos and a little MNG to pair!