True Hiyaoroshi – The Excellent History About The Origins of Hiyaoroshi
What you are about to read is pure sake history that very few people know about, and it’s about one of my favorite sake pet projects called Hiyaoroshi sake that I have pushed for a very long time now. Why did I push this seasonally released brew? I had good teachers in the form of Kazu and Mariko Yamazaki from Japan Prestige Sake in NYC. Kazu was my boy! My sake hero and best sake friend, and his wife Mariko was the daughter of Hiroshi Iida who founded Japan Prestige Sake Brewers Association in Tokyo (publicly traded company). They and their family have treated me so well over the decades, that it is an honor to play a small role in this incredible story of the origins of Hiyaoroshi sake.
What follows is a brief email exchange with Mariko after she read the October True Sake Newsletter where I stated that we would offer over 20 Hiyaoroshi sake this season, thus breaking the record of 17. In a word, this struck a cord with her and she did some research to discover how her father and grandfather played a HUGE role in the evolution of this incredible segment. And then the origins of this revival of sorts revealed themselves in, “The Story Behind the Birth of "Hiyaoroshi":
Beau-san,
Thank you very much for writing about Hiyaoroshi and Kazu Y in the True Sake October Newsletter.
The story of Hiyaoroshi began when my father researched its history—learning what kind of sake it was and how it was made—and commissioned several breweries to try brewing it.
He had learned about Hiyaoroshi while reading a historical novel; it sounded delicious, and because he really wanted to try it, he set out to revive the style. Since the resulting Hiyaoroshi was a delicious sake rich in matured umami, he subsequently had renowned breweries produce it. Nowadays, of course, it has become standard practice for many breweries to brew Hiyaoroshi.
Kazu Y was very fond of my father, so he put a lot of effort into promoting Hiyaoroshi. It brings back so many memories of my dad and Kazu...
Beau-san,
After consulting with Eisuke Iida and Dr. Mori—referencing past information bulletins from the Nihon Meimonshukai—I've come across a wealth of material on HIYAOROSHI, seasonal Nama-zake, and the history of sake. There is so much for me to learn!
To start, I am sending you the content of an article that Eisuke wrote for one of these bulletins back in 2008.
-Mariko
Ps. I double-checked with Eisuke and Dr. Mori, and maybe it turns out this article was written in July 2015.
The Story Behind the Birth of "Hiyaoroshi"
We have often mentioned that "Hiyaoroshi"—a major event in the world of Japanese sake—originated as an initiative by the Nihon Meimonshu-kai (Japan Prestigious Sake Brewers Association). To better understand its history, let us look back at the background and the sequence of events that led to its creation.
It all began when Hiroshi Iida, then the association’s General Manager (now Supreme Advisor), asked Secretary-General Suehiro to look into a type of sake called "Hiyaoroshi." Iida recalled his predecessor, Monjiro Iida (my grandfather), mentioning that there used to be a delicious sake known by this name, and he wanted to find out what it was like.
Hiroshi Iida noted that the very sound of the term "Hiyaoroshi"—which carries an evocative, appetizing quality—had stayed in his memory. Mr. Suehiro consulted with experts, including Tadahiko Hozumi (an advisor to the Nihon Meimonshu-kai) and Dr. Seinosuke Sugama (the first chairman of the Quality Control Committee), and uncovered the following details:
"Hiyaoroshi" refers to a practice from the Edo period (1603-1867): new sake, which had been pasteurized (*hi-ire*) and stored in large vats in the spring, was left to mature through the summer. Once the summer had passed—a time when the ambient temperature aligned with the temperature of the stored sake, significantly reducing the risk of spoilage (*hi-ochi*)—the sake was transferred from the large vats into high-quality barrels for shipment, without undergoing any further heating.
From the mid-Edo period onward, when the *kan-zukuri* (cold-weather brewing) method became the standard, the sake produced was quite different from what we see today: it had a higher rice-polishing ratio, a higher *nihonshu-do* (sake meter value), and higher acidity—resulting in an incredibly rich, full-bodied, and very dry profile. As this sake matured, it mellowed, becoming so highly prized that it was said, "Among all sake, *Hiyaoroshi* is the finest."
The "Hiyaoroshi Taru (Barrel) Sake Festival"—which featured the sale of sake by volume directly from barrels in shops—was launched as an attempt to revive this tradition for the modern era. By consulting past issues of the Nihon Meimonshu-kai’s information magazine, we discovered that this initiative dates back quite a long time. The first "Hiyaoroshi Taruzake (Cask-Matured Sake) Festival," organized by the Nihon Meimonshu-kai (Japan Prestige Sake Association), launched on October 1, 1978—the very same year that the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association designated October 1 as "Sake Day." This initiative was conceived as a fitting celebration for the newly established "Sake Day," marking the origins of "Hiyaoroshi."
The "Hiyaoroshi Taruzake Festival" continued until its eighth iteration in 1985. Periodicals from that era highlight the successful efforts of participating retailers and breweries. However, as participation was limited, the initiative evolved in 1986 to include "Hiyaoroshi" products sold in bottles (9 items, 8 kura), aiming for broader reach. This completed a seasonal lineup of sake offerings: “Hatsushibori” freshly pressed new sake in the spring, unpasteurized “Nama-zake” in the summer, and "Hiyaoroshi" for the autumn.
I recall that it was a challenging start; perhaps the concept lacked the immediate impact of the spring and summer offerings, or was simply difficult for consumers to grasp. While it was highly regarded for its excellent quality by some enthusiasts, it may have appealed more to connoisseurs than to the general public. It took time for the concept to take root and gain widespread acceptance.
A turning point for "Hiyaoroshi" came 17 years ago with the introduction of the "52-Week Lifestyle Proposal." By systematically mapping out the year in terms of sake sales, the appeal and role of "Hiyaoroshi" became clear, shifting the mindset of those involved. From that point on, it began to show steady growth, and as products from outside the Nihon Meimonshu-kai network also entered the market, the category began to expand.
During this period, there were also several occasions to revisit and clarify the definition of "Hiyaoroshi."
One key aspect was the evolution of storage vessels—from wooden casks to tanks, and eventually to bottles. While bottle-aging results in a "cleaner" flavor profile, it also allows for maturation within the bottle, catering to modern tastes. Today, this has blossomed into a diverse and enjoyable range of options. Another issue concerns the practice of "double pasteurization" (*nido-hiire*). Some argue that because *Nama-zume* (a process involving only a single pasteurization) imposes limitations on retail distribution due to quality control requirements, double pasteurization should also be permitted; however, we cannot accept this. The essence of *hiyaoroshi* is that it is shipped without compromising the mellow flavor developed through maturation. Even during the short two-to-three-month period from September to November, the sake continues to mature, becoming increasingly delicious as autumn deepens. Furthermore, as autumn ingredients also reach their peak flavor, one can enjoy a wide variety of pairings. This is a defining characteristic of *Hiyaoroshi*—one that is only possible precisely because it is *Nama-zume*. We cannot afford to discard its greatest appeal.
Engaging in serious, periodic discussions about these definitions has served as a valuable opportunity to clarify the concept and nature of *Hiyaoroshi*.
This year, *Hiyaoroshi* marks its 30th anniversary. As a flagship initiative of the Japan Prestigious Sake Association (Nihon Meimonshu-kai), it has grown into the number-one seasonal product in its category. It represents a "traditional yet new" demand for sake—something built from scratch, thanks to the support of so many. It is no exaggeration to say that we have led the industry in this regard.
Uncovering the value of sake, sharing it with the present generation, and passing it on to the future—the history of our work with *hiyaoroshi* is, in essence, the history of the Japan Prestigious Sake Association itself. If by "understanding" this history we can inspire a new perspective, then there could be no greater joy.
A particularly significant leap forward occurred in the autumn following the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, when sales surged by 27%. People came to deeply appreciate the arrival of the season—something usually taken for granted—and perhaps never before had the arrival of autumn been so eagerly awaited. Both our own efforts and the expectations of our customers reached unprecedented levels that year. It was also the year we first introduced an emotionally resonant message: "Pacific Saury, Mushrooms, and Hiyaoroshi."
What a cool story! And guess what? We not only broke the record of Hiyaoroshi sake offered this year we shattered the record with 24 different fall draft brews! There is no other store in the world that offers 24 fall draft sake. None, nada, not a chance. So, start your adventure today and remember these brews are excellent for shipping! Taste the season and feel the reason (read the reviews in New Store Arrivals).