Dewanoyuki Kimoto Junmai Namazume Hiyaoroshi "Shonai Bijin"

The nose on this first time available Hiyaoroshi sake from Yamagata has a very inviting collection of toffee, pecan, soy sauce, beef jerky, rice cake, browned butter, cinnamon, wood paddle, steamed rice, and cocoa aromas that get more hot chocolate-like as it warms in the glass. Made by the traditional Kimoto or pole rammed method, and using two brewing rice varietals (Dewakirari and Miyamanishiki grown in Aomori), this is a very solid throw-back Hiyaoroshi that is dry with classic Fall flavors. Light, slippery, medium-bodied, watery, and smooth, this brew drinks with a balanced integrated acidity and a vein of umami that is second to none. Look for milk chocolate, cinnamon, brown sugar, salted pretzel, rice cakes, tamago, chestnut, brioche, caramelized almonds, and snowmelt flavors that glide through the palate with a tannin-like dryness and a quick finish. WORD: Dry WINE: Complex Reds/Hard Whites BEER: Crisp Dry Ales FOODS: Grilled steaks, yakitori, fried chicken, turkey, cheese fondue, mapo tofu, and fatty sushi. (2024)