Customer Connection - Sake vs. the Great Red Wines of Burgundy & Bordeaux!
We recently received a request for a sake lineup that could stand up against some of the best wines in the world, while also pairing perfectly with a 4-course menu featuring Wagyu beef. This challenge was spawned by a secret society of sorts, a group of winos that get together for outstanding meals, paired with treasures from their personal cellars.
This time it was their Annual Japanese Wagyu lunch, featuring two of the four top rated prefectures for Wagyu in Japan: Mie and Gifu. The rule was that each attendee would bring their most prized red wine to pair with these exquisite meats. There were over 40 guests, so over 40 of the best red wines in the world were in attendance and aged to perfection.
Some information was provided to the group about the Wagyu beef types and their provenance:
Matsusaka -Ito Ranch- Mie Japan
Ito Ranch is a Matsusaka Beef farm located near the city of Tsu, Mie Prefecture, Japan, is dedicated to raising Kuroge Wagyū or Japanese Black beef. Founded in 1953, as of 2024 it is owned by Hiroki Ito and is claimed by the country's meat industry and by the specialized foreign press, to be the farm that produces the best meat in Japan, and the world. The farm has developed breeding standards believed by its operators to yield the best quality of wagyu beef and has achieved six victories in the Matsusaka Beef Carcass Contest, the annual contest that determines the highest quality beef. It is the only farm to win the trophy more than twice. The Financial Times has described Ito Ranch beef as the "star of the world's most exclusive menu". Ludovic Bischoff wrote for Les Echos that it is the "rarest, most expensive and tastiest meat in Japan." On September 20, 2023, in a private tasting with Hiroki Ito held at the Consulate General of Japan in Barcelona, Catalan chef Ferran Adriá stated that he had never tasted meat like it, considering it "from another dimension."
Ito Ranch is a Matsusaka Beef farm located near the city of Tsu, Mie Prefecture, Japan, is dedicated to raising Kuroge Wagyū or Japanese Black beef. Founded in 1953, as of 2024 it is owned by Hiroki Ito and is claimed by the country's meat industry and by the specialized foreign press, to be the farm that produces the best meat in Japan, and the world. The farm has developed breeding standards believed by its operators to yield the best quality of wagyu beef and has achieved six victories in the Matsusaka Beef Carcass Contest, the annual contest that determines the highest quality beef. It is the only farm to win the trophy more than twice. The Financial Times has described Ito Ranch beef as the "star of the world's most exclusive menu". Ludovic Bischoff wrote for Les Echos that it is the "rarest, most expensive and tastiest meat in Japan." On September 20, 2023, in a private tasting with Hiroki Ito held at the Consulate General of Japan in Barcelona, Catalan chef Ferran Adriá stated that he had never tasted meat like it, considering it "from another dimension."
Hida - Gifu Japan
The cultivation of Hida beef began in 1982, after the prefecture was introduced to a single bull called Anfuku from the Hyogo Prefecture. Hyogo, home to Kobe Beef, is well-known for producing delicious wagyu beef loved in all Japan and around the world. Since bull's introduction in 1982, farmers, distributors, and related organizations made great strides in establishing Hida Beef as one of the best brands in Japan. Thanks to the tireless efforts of the Japanese people, Hida beef was able to receive the Prime Minister's award at the 2002 Wagyu Olympics held every five years. The recognition established Hida Beef as one of the top wagyu in the world, next to Hyogo Prefecture's mouth watering Kobe Beef.
Le Menu
1st course
Corn and Crab Soup
Summer White Corn Velouté with Dungeness Crab
Miroku Junmai Daiginjo TRUE SAKE EXCLUSIVE
We recommended Miroku due to it's delicate aromas, but very full and soft body. It was meant to be reminiscent of a richer white Burgundy (without oak age), that would suit the corn and crab soup flawlessly.
2nd course
Seared California Black Cod
Sea Beans and Saffron Sauce
Shichida Summer 2025 Junmai Namazume "Natsujun"
*Shichida Summer was a seasonal pairing that befitted the sea beans and saffron sauce due to its fruit-forwardness and a hint of sweetness. It was one of our fleshiest natsuzake, which made it full enough to pair with the black cod's velvety texture.
*Currently out of stock
Entrée course
Battling Japanese Striploin Wagyu Duo
Ito Ranch Matsusaka vs Hida
Recommending Kenbishi was an absolute no-brainer, as it is one of the most attractive umami-driven sake in the store. It exudes flavors of caramel, miso and shiitake mushrooms. Being the oldest brand in active production, they have been making this savory style sake since 1505. Sake high in amino acids can serve as an alternative to red wine pairings.
This was another option for the wagyu duo which the group decided to include in their pairing dinner. It was a Junmai with a solera-like blend of vintages, between 3-8 years. This one was is a bit more eclectic in its expression, including notes of toasted rice, sarsaparilla and believe it or not, uni!
4th course
Fromages de France
Chef’s Selection
Fromages de France
Chef’s Selection
Yuki No Bosha Yamahai Junmai "Old Cabin"
We didn't know which French cheeses would be showcased for the cheese course, so we suggested a sake with a wide bandwidth that would match most types. Yuki no Bosha's Yamahai Junmai provides ample nuttiness, a full body and hints of cocoa. The lactic character of this sake made it pairable with lighter, bloomy rind style cheeses such as Camembert, and the nutty, umami in this sake works with washed rind or longer aged, cows milk cheeses like Mimolette or Comté.
The Sake Lineup
Sake went head to head with some of the best reds in the world!
...and the list goes on.
Our mystery client was kind enough to provide feedback for the suggested pairings, letting us know which ones were stellar, as well as subpar. They also had their own bottles of IWA which were included in the pairing assessment. Please enjoy our mystery client's notes below in italics.
1st course
Summer White Corn Velouté with Dungeness Crab
The Miroku worked with the corn and crab soup — an inherent sweetness and power paired well. IWA was also good there — it had a lot going on with balance and complexity.
We had the IWA with all the dishes and felt as a generalization that the more pure traditional sakes had more linearity which made them good on their own merits, while the IWA was really balanced. It was interesting to compare.
2nd course
Seared California Black Cod with Sea Beans and Saffron Sauce
We loved the Shichida with the fish dish. Another guest brought what he said was a “unicorn” — “nichi nichi” with a dymo type label. I didn't know that sake, but it was super fresh and clean and really beautiful.
*They were having so much fun by this time that we did not receive any photos of the remaining dishes. Here are our connoisseur's comments on the following pairings:
3rd & 4th course
The Kenbishi Kuromatsu was most liked with the beef — both the food and the sake enhanced each other and a couple of us thought that it was the “wine of the day” (but wait to see the competition — like 1990 Haut-Brion). Interestingly, the Kuromatsu with the potato gratin made a really amazing flavor like the world’s greatest french fry.
The uni aspect of the Chikurin Fukamari Junmai "Deep Field” didn’t pair as well with the beef. I am personally perhaps more sensitive to it, but I feel that a lof of 1980’s Bordeaux have a fish element, perhaps via fining by isinglass. So not out of the boundries, but less appealing that the Kuromatsu.
Other wines served included a bunch of nice white burgundies, and some ’96 Dom (to go with IWA). However, it was largely Bordeaux with Cheval Blanc ‘82, ‘83, ‘89, ‘90, ‘95, ‘98, ‘99 plus ‘90 Latour and ’90 Haut-Brion, etc.
The ’90 CB and HB maybe held up with the Kuromatsu to accompany the beef, but the sakes worked better with food. The wines were wonderful, but perhaps more on their own.
The uni aspect of the Chikurin Fukamari Junmai "Deep Field” didn’t pair as well with the beef. I am personally perhaps more sensitive to it, but I feel that a lof of 1980’s Bordeaux have a fish element, perhaps via fining by isinglass. So not out of the boundries, but less appealing that the Kuromatsu.
Other wines served included a bunch of nice white burgundies, and some ’96 Dom (to go with IWA). However, it was largely Bordeaux with Cheval Blanc ‘82, ‘83, ‘89, ‘90, ‘95, ‘98, ‘99 plus ‘90 Latour and ’90 Haut-Brion, etc.
The ’90 CB and HB maybe held up with the Kuromatsu to accompany the beef, but the sakes worked better with food. The wines were wonderful, but perhaps more on their own.
This turned out to be a really over the top event and my friends and I felt that the sakes were really great and paired well with the food. Your recommendations really worked! This is a group very focused on food and French wine, though less understanding of sake — we hope to change that :).
Chris and KJ were in correspondence back to the secret society cohort...
Chris:
Happy to hear the Miroku paired well with the corn and crab soup. That is our boss/founder's favorite discovery from Niigata. We even made it a True Sake exclusive.
Yes, when comparing IWA to a more pure traditional sake, there's going to be a clear difference. Richard Geoffroy is really pushing the boundaries of sake with his IWA project that not everyone fully understands. For example, you'll have the "pure traditional sake" connoisseurs that pay for IWA, and they are disappointed. Partially because they're taking IWA to their favorite sushi restaurant, or perhaps because they see the price tag of IWA, and immediately have a certain expectation. If it were only that simple... =)
I think you would have lots of fun with an IWA 5 vertical. Richard mentioned that #2 was his favorite of the bunch.
Kenbishi and the world's greatest french fry. What a quote. Wow. I love it. I want to try this now more than ever. I am actually not surprised that Kenbishi Kuromatsu did so well, as this brand has been around since 1505. It's an absolute classic in the sake world, and I'm glad more and more people are discovering how incredible this sake is.
Sorry about the Chikurin. We were trying to a bat a 1000 on that one. But it sounds like this would do much better with uni? Interestingly enough, I'm not that crazy about uni.
I wish I understood these wine references! Sounds incredible though! I guess it would be like me talking about the '92 Barcelona Dream Team or the '98 Chicago Bulls.
KJ:
Thank you so much for sending us your notes! I am so happy to hear that the sake did so well with your pairing courses. I knew Miroku and the corn soup would be a hit, as well as Kenbishi with the beef dish. I love your description of the potato gratin and Kenbishi making the 'perfect french fry.' It's also incredible to hear that the Kenbishi worked even better than your '90 Haut Brion and Cheval Blancs, although I am incredibly jealous of the lineup in the photos. How do I join your club? Haha!
All in all, getting to know our secret client was incredibly enjoyable and it was even better to find out that the sake we suggested were viable opponents to the grandest reds in the land!
If any of your readers out there have an interesting sake vs. wine story to tell, don't be shy! Email us at info@truesake.com and we may feature you in an upcoming edition of Customer Connection! Kanpai!